Edson - Idaho - Washington and back - July 2022

[Brett]

Yet again - late to share but I have decided it is time to finally finish posting what I have been meaning too. After the 2021 Yukon adventure my eight year old stated next year (2022) was her turn and her brother was to stay home. After informing her that he will have to come, and it will be nice to have a trip with the entire family, she reluctantly agreed he could attend. Thankfully she is tall and was able to reach the passenger pegs, and the extra few months until we leave will just add a bit of wiggle room to allow her to more comfortably reach the passenger pegs. 6 months, she should grow at least an inch....

After my wife and I discussed it, we decided it was time to tour back down through the States for a loop. Same rules of engagement as the previous years (without the family tragedy) , ~400 km's per day, a few down days along the way to look around and no high winds (had a bad experience near pincher creek a few years back with 110 km/hr cross winds – I am lucky my wife still wants to ride). Now, where to go, wouldn’t it be nice to attend some July 4th fire works and see Mount St. Helens?! That was it, now to plan a loop around that. Seemed straightforward.


Needed to get the kids geared up. Not as easy as one would think. Apparently kids on motorcycles is not overly popular. Thanks to Ebay and Duchinni riding attire! New pants for my son, new outfit for my daughter. The pink lid got handed down, third child to wear it, he was happy he was able to get a less flashy new helmet with more venting this time. They have informed me that riding gear is extremely hot and to hurry up and take the photo!

Closer to the date, I set my daughter on the bike and noticed she had to be piled up against me to comfortably reach the pegs. That won’t do. Panic time! Departure is fast approaching I couldn't find lifted pegs anywhere so I got creative, after all, legally they just must touch the passenger pegs to ride, the laws never stated they couldn't be modified.


A few pieces of ABS pipe, some zip ties, self tapping screws for traction and a roll each of rubber splice tape and black tape and voila! booster pegs! Good to go!

 

[Brett]

Day 1 - Edson to Nordegg - 275 km

Like usual, never get away as early as one would like. First day riding with my 8 year old and first time my wife is taking a child. Years ago we had done a two up trip on our Breva 750 from Salmo to Seattle to pick up my Breva 1100 from Moto International, so taking an 80 pound child seemed to be a none issue. Oh I miss that bike.

We decided she could have the seasoned passenger (our son) and I would take the greenhorn (our daughter). All packed up, geared up and melting to go.


Geared up for family adventure!


Made it all of 46 km's before "Dad, I'm tired" was announced on the intercom by my daughter. Well, that was unexpected, how can I keep her more awake - need to figure this out. Will need to see how tired she gets and how frequent. A&W stop for a "healthy" snack in Niton Junction.


Made it a few more kilometers to the Brazeau Dam. A bit of a berry pick and some stick tossing for a break.


Made it to the Nordegg Lodge Hotel. Not bad for a late start and a few "I'm sleepy" comments.

Had an overly pricey supper in the restaurant - the pizza was good. Walked around the town - apparently not taking any photos. Found out there was a community breakfast the next morning at the hall. Seems like a good idea.


The rooms were surprisingly nice. Time to test the pillows.

 

[Moto-Uno]

Just got back from the Broken Arrow rally in Idaho a few days ago . Loved it , but holy crap is it hot in that
part of the US this time of year . Impressed your kids took part in that adventure ! Peter

 

[Brett]

Day 2 - Nordegg to Fort Steele - 427 km

Had a good night sleep. Heard there was a pancake breakfast being put on by the community at the community hall for Canada Day. How kind! Of course no photo, but it was a busy and tasty. A fair amount of activities being offered but we had to move on, big day, 427 km day today.


Set off a little late due to breakfast and getting our bearings. Headed via the David Thompson highway towards Cranbrook, tonight's stay is a surprise location. Quick stop at Kootenay Crossing for a picnic lunch. It has been a few years since I have been here. Under new management and it appears to still be recovering from Covid. Kids needed a nap after filling their stomachs, here I thought that was just an adult thing.


After they woke up rested and fresh, off to our next stop. I found it funny when my young passenger started telling me she was tired after 50 km's. I really need to sort out the sleepy thing. I will need to think. Next stop. Radium Tim's, always pleasant, but the sugar will likely be a sleepy problem for my passenger.......


We made it! Fort Steele. They were far less excited than I was, must be the heat. I had seen a few years ago that you could book into the hotel on site, this trip I couldn't resist. Now, how do we get into our room?


After phoning the number, we took the horses inside and tied them up out front of the historic Windsor Hotel. A very surreal experience to bring a motorized vehicle inside the fort after hours where a person has only walked or seen horses. Very cool.


After checking in and getting the low down we moved our items up to the room. It doesn't seem to matter how we pack, we always seem to need everything into the room. We were informed we have free run of the fort in the evening, we just can't enter any buildings as they are locked for the night but we have a free pass for the following day to tour everything - perfect. The concierge also informed us there is an evening "spooky tour" available - the kids didn't want to miss it.


Comes with continental breakfast in the morning.


I was expecting a really old bathroom, crazy how new it was. Apparently to be considered a historic building, all changes must be able to be reverted and a certain percentage of the original material must remain (cannot remember what that is).

We had ate in Radium prior to arriving but got a bit hungry later on in the evening. We walked across to the Fort Steele Resort & RV Park to see what we could find.






Made it back and walked around for a bit. A very unique experience to walk around without the crowds.


Found a dandelion on steroids.


The kids found the local playground.


We finished our personal tour with some time to kill before our spooky tour. Figured I would just relax in the bed for a few minutes, apparently the days exercise and heat caught up to me. Thankfully the kids were kind enough to wake me with time to spare to get to our meeting point

The spooky tour was interesting and filled with oddities of the past that involved the buildings and their proprietors. The tour was about an hour long and it went by quickly. Better get to bed, we need to have the bikes out front before the park opens then tour around then off to Coeur d'Alene. Border crossings stress me out.

 

[BrianR]

Thank you for such a great write-up with such nice pictures. It's very inspiring to see you both carry a youngster as a pillion.

 

[Brett]

Day 3 - Fort Steele to Coeur d'Alene- 270 km

Big day today, tour the park during opening hours and cross the border. Border crossing stress me out on a motorcycle. Awoke to the sound of a lawn mower. Spied a grounds keeper ripping around on a zero turn, can you imagine mowing all those acres with a reel mower! Technology has its place.

Now, is that fresh baking we smell.


Homemade cinnamon buns and bread from the local historical bakery at the Fort. One of the most memorable stays I can think of.

I managed to get the bikes out prior to opening, my wife packed up while I shuttled the bags down and affixed them. Then road the horses out the back gate. A very bizarre experience "sneaking" your vehicles in and out via the staff entrance.

I made my way back in and off we go on our daytime tour.


These accommodations made us thankful for the luxury we found ourselves in last night. These beds were no where near as plush.


Big stove for a large barracks. The kids were floored that people used to cook on such devices, and for so many.


These horses don't look like the Italian variety I am used to but rival in size.

Finished the tour, dawned our gear and off for my stressful border crossing. Turns out the stress was all for not, borders were just opening up so we were able to drive straight up and the lovely border agent did not rush us on and were patient while we removed helmets. One of the best crossing experiences I've had. With a sigh of relief, it was time to find a place to eat.

Came across the bridge into Bonners Ferry - are those hops?? Closer investigation reveals yes, those are hops, fitting as it was the backside of Kootenai River Brewing Company.


Had to take the gear off. It was so hot and air conditioning was awaiting us. Stops take so long when you have to peal gear off and on, now add kids and stir. It was totally worth it, we had a great meal. It is unfortunate we had more miles to achieve or we would have indulged in a beer.

Onward, need to get to the lake for a swim to cool off.


Checked in at the Resort City Inn and made it with enough time to spare for a swim and to apparently try our hand at boat building with old logs prior to supper. So hot.......



Had supper at Sweet Lou's then went for a walk around the town.


Pretty amazing water feature. Need some ideas for our soon to be ponds.

That photo was just prior to the thunderstorm so we made a run for the room. Time for some sleep. Big day tomorrow, off to Yakima ~400 km's and have a down day and attend some 4th of July celebrations.

 

[Brett]

Day 4 - Coeur d'Alene to Yakima - 401 km

This day was full of variable weather. Left Coeur d'Alene via I-90 through Spokane and departed the I-90 after a brief stop at the Chevron in Sprague onto hwy 23. Then the winds started creeping up. My wife is not a fan (nor am I for that matter). At least they were head winds. Had to stop to add some layers and rain gear, which always takes a bit longer with children. It was a lovely ride through sprawling fields of hills. It got really windy between highway 23 to 28 through Mohler. Made it to Vantage for a top box picnic at the Chevron (For some reason we have been here multiple times, but can remember what our route was on previous trips). went to try some grub from the dinner (which appears closed now) but the lineups were too long for our perceived schedule. Left Vantage with full stomachs and a desire to have our down day tomorrow in Yakima to take in the July 4th festivities.

No sooner had we left Vantage that I spied the first wind turbine off in the distance. As much as I like them and find them majestic, they are never installed in calm environments. thankfully the gale-force winds were head on, but that did not lessen my wife's displeasure with them. Thankfully we were able to turn off near Ellensburg and head down the canyon road, State Route 821. Out of the wind, were able to wind our way through the scenic river valley. We arrived fairly early as we didn't do many stops at our hotel, the Days Inn.

Got settled in and while humping the luggage to the room noticed that most all of the other hotels looked like fortified compounds out of a zombie movie. That's weird. Noticed a few people at the gates trying to get in and a security guard speaking to them through the gates. Also weird. Oh well, need to get cleaned up and go for some food. We were looking forward to the walk.

My wife spied a Red Lobster just up the way so off we went. We didn't make it more than a 25 yards when the pieces of the puzzle starting fitting together. Noticed lots of garbage - okay, just a little dirty. Then noticed lots of people pushing shopping carts - uh oh, I don't think they had ran for groceries based on the contents. A bit further on, some people having discussions with somebody that was obviously wearing Harry Potters invisibility cloak. A little further up, someone wigging out and fighting with their childhood invisible friend. At about the 250 meter mark in our walk is when we noticed a State Trooper drive past and quickly swing flip a shit hook and pull up in the parking lot next to where we were walking on the sidewalk. Their I am looking around wondering what I had done (little did I know this would not be the first time this night I would wonder that).

He was extremely kind, I wish I would have caught his name. His first question was, what are you doing here? My wife informed him that we were staying down the road and just heading out for supper at the Red Lobster. After some more Q and A, we had enlightened him as to our travel plans and he had enlightened us that you don't usually see well dressed people on this side of town, walking, with kids as it was mostly reserved for the zombies (homeless, drug addicts and displaced mentally ill). GREAT! This is where my second more dire thought of "What have I done" to reserve a room in this unsafe area for two nights with my family. After some more conversation, I asked, should we even be walking. He said very factually, don't be out after the sun starts going down. GREAT!

We thanked him and continued along, now having a heightened sense of where we were. Ordered supper and I got down to business on my phone trying to find a different Hotel but met with no luck as everything was full. Noticed the time and the sun and hoofed it back to our room before the sun went down and we got shanked. I didn't get much sleep this night as our hotel didn't have the fence all around and every noise made me jump up and look out the window at the bikes. Thankfully all the sounds were the local migrant workers getting up at ungodly hours to get on the crew bus to head to work. Most of them would stop and look at the bikes while exchanging a few words that were lost through the panes of glass. Need sleep. The morning will come too early.

Due to all the wind, weather and criminals I managed to not snap one photo this day. Apologies for the long post.

 

[Brett]

Day 5 - July 4th - Yakima down day - 6 km via foot plus an additional 18 km via wandering.

I woke unrested and feeling some concern about were we found ourselves due to my poor planning. Thankfully the city of Yakima is very welcoming. I will be honest, I am not a fan of the homeless in the quantities that have increased over the last decade, but thankfully they are to this time, harmless.



Bikes made the night.

We woke up and readied ourselves for the day. We hit the continental breakfast at the Days Inn which was good. packed our backpacks and started walking for the fair grounds at 9am. yup, early start for fireworks, this was going to be a long day. It took us a little over and hour-and-a-half to make the nearly 6 km walk to the State Fair Park with the meandering route we took. Well, its only 10:30 am. We have 12 hours to kill. wondered around the grounds and found that the amusement park rides were here. Thank you Yakima!


Fair didn't open until lunch. We better go eat so the kids can be uninterrupted.

We had time so went wandering in search of food. We found a market across the street, Fiesta Foods. Lets see what we can get for a quick lunch.


As it turns out $12 quesadilla, which fed all of us and with leftovers. it was huge. Thank you Fiesta Foods.

Made it back to the Fair and only had time to get a day pass and then the rides started running. Pretty lucky timing.


The kids looked almost lonely. They were the first and only kids taking the rides.


My daughter couldn't go on this ride as she was too short. My son loved it. It scared me just to watch from the sidelines and wonder how it doesn't flip over.


Bumper cars are not easier with fewer people!

Between 4 and 5 the grounds became packed and the kids had to start waiting inline. By 8 pm, the lines were so big that it was no longer worth it. We grabbed some food and found a patch of grass to watch the fireworks from. Started getting a little cold later in the evening, what the hell were we thinking when we didn't pack thin jackets. Each adult had to spoon a kid for heat.

The fire works were incredible, well worth the stop. Thanks to the Troopers warning from the day before, we would take an Uber back to the Inn.

Time to sleep, it was a long day and time to get on the road again tomorrow.

 

[Brett]

Day 6 - Yakima to Kelso - 265 km

A little wet today, just travelling between places and enjoying the views. Had lunch at Papa Bear's Family Restaurant. They were kind enough to set the shelters up for us.

Not sure what these were originally set up for, but they were much appreciated. Made it to the room at a reasonable time, left the kids to watch some telly and the Mrs's and I went on a grocery run to prep for the next day.

 

[Brett]

Day 7 - Kelso to Mount St. Helens North side - ~100 km's

Another dreary day. When you only have a few weeks, there are no down days due to weather, liners in and away we go. It was a bit unnerving riding up the road to the observatory. It wasn't fog as it was more low lying cloud. Riding along in the drizzle then out of nowhere, there appears a HUGE logging truck. I can remember the ash on the vehicles when this occurred. Toured the Centre for a few hours and watched and read all that we could. So many lives lost or changed that day from that incredibly powerful event.



One humorous item occurred once were finished the film in the theater and the curtain rolls up for the big reveal of the mountain. This is what we saw: Cloud!



We went and walked a few of the trails around the observatory hoping that the clouds would clear. Family photo with Mount St. Helens in the background........


Is that sun trying to peak through. Please clouds burn off, we came a long way to see this mountain.


The cloud was toying with us most of the day. It would show signs of lifting then sock back in. Inside to warm up for a few minutes.

We were reaching the time where we felt that it was not going to be our day due to weather. As we were out front the clouds seemed to clear from the valley but they still shrouded the main event. Maybe, just maybe if we stay a bit longer.


Getting closer.


So Close!!



Finally our patience paid off around 4 pm. A bit later than we wanted to stay, but worth it. What an incredible amount of energy that was released to move that much dirt and rock.

Made it back to the room ate, evening walk (Kids did cruise control television). Tomorrow is the south side.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

These photos are wonderful and the comments are fun to read. What fantastic memories you have created for you all. Safe travels always! Godspeed.

 

[Brett]

Day 8 - Kelso to Mount St. Helens south side - ~210 km

Awoke to far better weather today. Quick breakfast and off we go. Three stops on the southside of today. Starting at Lava Canyon.

Made in to trail head, sunny weather = full smiles. Far easier when the sun is shining.



Interesting to learn that ~1700 years ago (if memory serves me correctly) lava flowed from the back side and was exposed by the 1980 eruption.

The kids sure didn't mind hiking this day. Apparently walking through an ancient lava tube is pretty awe inspiring to all ages.



We decided to leave the bikes at the Lava Canyon trail head and walk to Ape Canyon trail head and take in the view from the bridge just down from the trail head.. Someone managed to negotiate a lift





Set off down Ape Canyon. It would be nice to make it to the rim, but we did not apply for the proper permits. We also would have needed to camp closer. One day maybe we will come back and hike all around.


We hiked about another kilometer past here and had lunch in the Lahar. Between the ants and the horsefly's, it was a pretty rushed lunch.


I think this was the closest view we had of the mountain.

Made it back to the motorcycles, geared up and set off. Made it about 500 meters and keyed up the radio and requested to pull into the viewing area. I was less than popular...... but I am worth it!






Found this, were I am from Billy's are in abundance.



Set off back down the road. Made it about half way when I was informed that a stop was required. Funny how hot sun some walking and the soothing purr of a Guzzi can lead to drowsiness.

After all the cobwebs were shook off, made it back to the room. Had a late supper and some homemade pies near by. Tomorrow off to Seattle, well actually Tukwila because Seattle room prices were ridiculous.

 

[Brett]

Day 9 -12 - Kelso to Tukwila (Seattle) - 220 km

Woke up to good weather today. Time to transit to our next layover. I really like Seattle, likely due to Dave Richardson turning me onto the Guzzi brand from there. Opted to stay in Tukwila and use transit up to Seattle due to the exorbitant cost of hotel rooms in Seattle. We like to avoid the interstates when possible so opted to take Highway 12 and 7 through Mossyrock and Morton. The children are in charge of cleaning the visors, job well done.




I had noticed my bike was taking on a bit of a steeper lean when on the side stand yesterday, discovered the side stand was coming loose. I guess I can't complain too much, the last time it happened was in Whitehorse which was awhile ago. Took the time in the morning to loctite things back into place over a coffee while the rest of the family finished getting ready.



I was finished securing the side stand when I noticed a few spots on the inside of the rear rim. PANIC!!! There were spots around the entire inside of the rear rim, it can only be one thing. CARC seal was leaking. Well crap, of all the places this could have happened, we are as far from home as we could be on this trip. I took a moment, gathered my composure and started to diagnose.
1) There was no play in the bearing at all - that is good
2) There was not a hemorrhage of oil on the ground, just spots which were not there a few days ago
3) The oil level still indicated full

Maybe I am luck enough to have only the rear seal failure and not the bearing failure...........

Went and informed my family of our potential issue. I decided I will ride it and check oil often. A fairly uneasy feeling let me tell you, if that rear bearing lost oil and piled up with my child on the back.......It was a tough decision. If down the road I decided it was no longer able to be ridden, my plan was to return home via plane, remove the final drive from my Stelvio and return to swap the failed Breva unit out. Well plan in place, off we went.

It was a nice ride on the secondaries. I took multiple stop and catch up breaks to monitor the rim spatter and check oil the oil. Stopped in Elbe when we eyed a fruit stand. It was a busy little interchange, like always, I would like to return and spend a month. Went to the local fuel station for some refreshments and like always find it a culture shock when the attendant has a ginormous side arm attached to him. When asked if that is everything, it feels like a double meaning question.

Made it to the hotel with very little traffic. Surprising. The day was not in any way stressful so we opted to head to the mall for supper and a movie. Cannot for the life of me remember the movie. I do know the kids enjoyed it.

Along the way we noticed some of the local wildlife. Looking back this was a bit of foreshadowing.



Back to the hotel and off to bed. Tomorrow is the first day of the transit, hopefully we read everything correctly.

Took in Pike's Place and the aquarium. The flowers are incredible.

The kids now want a pet octopus.


There were more than a few disagreements over whose turn it was.


Day one was a success and we didn't get lost on the transit. We did however start noticing that there are significantly more homeless the during our previous visit.

My wife noticed that the Blue Jays were playing the following day so we decided to take in a ball game. I had never been to one and when would I see the Blue Jays playing the Mariners again.

The following day, the kids were less than thrilled to be going back downtown Seattle. We let them know there is a surprise. They reminded me the last time I gave them a surprise it was a needle in the form of a Covid vaccine. They are reluctant of surprises now. In my defense, I did buy them an ice cream after the vaccination....

First stop of the day was the space needle. we had never been. it is pretty amazing, and TERRIFYING!

We purchased the double feature tickets that gave us access to the Chihuly Garden and Glass as well. Let me tell you, Dale Chihuly had talent and vision. Incredible.




Walked back across the downtown towards the ball park. Inquired about the underground tour but it was booked for days. We decided we would skip it this time.

Made it to the game. We started out in the shade, then got the blasting sun. It required a lot of hydration. The kids must have ingested a couple of gallons of pop each. The Jays played well.

AND LOST. Oh well, It was still a great time.



Left the game for the transit. I feel like I am in a mob of homeless. They are everywhere. Back to the hotel and a quick bit at the Seafood City super market. They have really tasty food. Off to bed, tomorrow is our last day here.

It is starting to feel like ground hog day. Get up, eat breakfast, walk to bus stop, take bus to downtown. I love vacations!

Today was the Pacific Science Center and what ever else we can find.

Just happened across this monstrosity. Kids burnt a few hours on it. It looked like a ton of fun.


I wanted to find the Chris Cornell Statue. Sound Garden was definitely one of my favorite bands during my University days.


We decided to grab a bit from down at the wharf. Happened across the Olympic Sculpture Park. We found them all. It is well worth the walk. Oh how many homeless though and encampments everywhere. People laying in the street or at risk of falling over in a Zombie state.


Finished supper and made it back to the room. We prepared for the following day departure. Sleep was easy due to all the miles walked. it was a good day. Tomorrow is on the road again and a border crossing.

 

[BDS]

Day 7 - Kelso to Mount St. Helens North side - ~100 km's

What a great family adventure! Good pics and memories. Makes me miss my ‘15 White Norge.

 

[Brett]

Day 13 - (Seattle) to Osoyoos- 448 km

Long stop is over, time to hit the road again. This marks the turning point were we are technically on our way home. Will take Hwy 2 over to Wenatchee and 97 up to Osoyoos. Not looking forward to the awkward border crossing like usual. Had the continental breakfast and then I started hauling bags down while the family got ready. I confirmed the rear drive oil again, it is hanging in there with no catastrophic oil release.......yet.

Smiles all around. A few days off the bikes have left us refreshed.

We wind our way through Seattle along the route our bus had taken each day. Of course this day we hit rush hour and it is hot. We had hit the Sea Food market for snacks the night before so we could stop where we want along the way. Of course we need to stop at Stevens Pass ski resort like we do every time we come through here. Beautiful weather this time.

Everyone was uncertain if we were stopping apparently.


Dad, I'm starving.


It occurs to Cheryl and I this is our fourth time through here and our fourth stop.

Historical Stop 1 April 2011 (Special thanks to Dave Richardson for pointing out what the surface temperature of the roads were) Stephens Pass was 35 F this morning. Had to stop every 45 minutes to warm up even with all my clothing on.


Historical Stop 2 Aug 2011 - better weather (Two new bikes in one year!)
Historical Stop 3 May 2012 - Servicing and new saddle bags

The kids just don't realize how nice they have it with the current weather!

Found a table and had a quick picnic.


While enjoying the view.

Sure would like to ski here one day.

Set off after our lunch, it wasn't long before my pillion was starting to lean heavily upon my back. A few minutes later "Dad I'm tired". Tucked her hands between my stomach and the tank and lay down on my tank bag and voila, a bed. She hadn't been resting on my back for more than 30 seconds before she jerked awake. I inquired what happened and was informed she had fallen down the stairs. We both laughed. Hands got tucked in and she had a 15 minute power nap. Good for the rest of the day!

We stopped a few times for hydration and breaks. The border crossing was fast approaching. Made it to the border and was stunned. Not a soul to be found except for the Border agent. Got to the window, took my helmet off and had to ask why there was nobody here. Apparently things were still starting to get going due to Covid so it was normal to be this slow now. Amazing. Went through all the documents and then I asked if I could pull ahead to get our gear back on. He informed us we could just do it right there as there was nobody coming (this was a first). Best crossing ever!



Made it to the Avalon Inn. Nice and affordable.

Walked for an Ice Cream and on our way back the kids spotted this.

What I had spotted was the vehicle with the man sitting in it almost on the beach. Figured this would end with some humor so let the kids try to make a break for it. Yes, too good to be true. The vehicle was security. After getting a bit stern and the kids coming back ashore, he became quite talkative. It is a pay to play attraction, that receives a lot of attention from the drunkards after the bars close. Apparently our kids were a pleasant surprise compared to the usual hooligans.

And so ends another very good fun filled day. Tomorrow, off to Kaslo.

 

[GerryAZ]

Great trip reports! I grew up in eastern Washington and really enjoy these travel reports. I need to make another bike trip up that way.

 

[Ghost_Bullet]

What a fabulous trip. Totally awesome

 

[Nordicnorm]

I love Kaslo, New Denver, Nakusp. Found it all in the very early 80s. Looking fwd to more!