Electronic ignition for Eldos ?

[steve lindsay]

I'm having a 73 Eldorado restored and would sure like some feedback from you guys on what way to go for an electronic ignition . I'm considering a combination of ignition form Laubtec in Germany with a module made by Jefferies in Australia . I'm a lilttle nervous about this so am thinking Harpers Electronic Ignition because its guaranteed and on the same continent and would love some feedback from anyone using it as well as any others that have been working for you . Otherwise , the old points system is always an option . Thanks for the help , Steve

 

[KnowFear]

Check out Sachse-Electronics: www.elektronik-sachse.de

 

[Tonerjockey]

I use a Sachse unit on my race bike. Dunno about their Eldo (replacing a single points, single coil) system but I can recommend them as company. I have found their products well designed and their reposnse to inqueries satisfactory.

Alex

 

[Amboman]

Otherwise , the old points system is always an option . Thanks for the help , Steve

The "old points system" is the best option IMO. Very easy to set, very durable and easy to maintain. On my '69 Ambo, I clean and gap the points once a year (in the Spring), apply a dab of Bosch Distributor Grease to the cam and that's it until the next year. With a Bosch Blue Coil the spark is plenty hot for immediate starting, never had an issue with burnt contacts or anything else. I have much better things to spend my hard-earned $$ on than unnecessary electronic ignitions. Just my opinion.

Here's some info on the Pertronix/Harpers unit: http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/moto ... ronix_unit

 

[steve lindsay]

Otherwise , the old points system is always an option . Thanks for the help , Steve

The "old points system" is the best option IMO. Very easy to set, very durable and easy to maintain. On my '69 Ambo, I clean and gap the points once a year (in the Spring), apply a dab of Bosch Distributor Grease to the cam and that's it until the next year. With a Bosch Blue Coil the spark is plenty hot for immediate starting, never had an issue with burnt contacts or anything else. I have much better things to spend my hard-earned $$ on than unnecessary electronic ignitions. Just my opinion.

Here's some info on the Pertronix/Harpers unit: http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/moto ... ronix_unit

Thanks for the info . Appreciate it . I'm leaning towards the Harper system .

 

[steve lindsay]

Check out Sachse-Electronics: http://www.elektronik-sachse.de

2 responses for Sachse with positive results . Lots of options but have to make a decision at some point . Thanks for your help guys .

 

[geodoc]

Here's what I've found out about Loop / Eldo advance curves as they relate to detonation problems.

1st off, I noticed in the owner's handbook, that "98/100 NO R.M." is the recommended fuel rating. I poked around, but can't find anything that might be a clue as to what the "NO" part of that is, the "R.M." part is plain enough, so I assume that it's the same expression for octane rating as is used in N America now unless somebody knows different. The highest octane rating usually found is 94 R/M in Canada and 91 R/M in the US Pacific NW. Especially in the US PNW then, the difference from the factory recommended octane rating and what's available is considerable. So, I'm taking that as pretty good "probable cause" exibit 'A'.

I have an Eldo distributor off the bike (thanks Steve) to install on the piece of steam-punk apparatus you can see below. Somebody was cleaning out their garage and it ended up given to our shop. Put a charged-up 6V battery in there and the damn thing worked! The distributor spec paper "scroll" in it includes up to 1956, so there you go.

Anyway, I installed the Eldo distributor to this rig and ran it up with my note pad and then drew up the 1st hand-drawn graph below as compared to the graph in the service manual just above it. The total advance is right, but it's not quite the pair of straight shots from the factory graph. That's not surprising, but it's really not that far off. On the "actual" stock curve graph you can see that just pulling on the 1 spring as the stock spring set-up is designed to do, the 1st part of the curve is pretty steep - you're already at 20 deg. BTDC @ 2000 RPM.So there's a second reason why stock Eldos might be prone to detonation - lots of advance early in the engine RPM range.

The bottom graph is one of the 3 curves available with Cliff Jefferies "REC-Ignition" module:

http://www.jefferies-au.org/MyECU/MyIgn.html

I have not included the other 2 since after drawing them out based on Cliff's curve numbers he sent me, it looks like the most appropriate one.

The REC-Ign. curve is quite a bit shallower and even given an 8 deg. BTDC static point rather than the 5 deg. stock setting, you have (for instance) a 12 deg. spark point at 2000 RPM rather than 20 and shallower all the way up the curve until you get to about 3200 RPM - a point where you have a high enough engine speed that will not be as prone to detonation except for very high load situations. The REC-Ign. web page mentions that you cannot use points as the trigger signal with the built-in curves. I's partial to the Laubtec unit rather than the Harper's / Pertronic for a couple reasons, but that's another subject.

So there it is. granted, a fixed curve set-up is not a silver bullet to be sure - humping it up a long hill in E Wash. in the summer when it's 92 F outside pushing a windshield and saddlebags at 70 MPH with all your gear piled on it, but a reasonable band-aid that should help address a tendency towards detonation with an otherwise stock set-up, especially for those that would like to retain a visually-identical to stock distributor.

BTW: I forgot to mention that the REC-Ign. has selectable ign. coil charging "soak times" so it should do a far better job making efficient use of the coil and give easier starting, and perhaps off-set the still less than perfect advance curve to a certain extent in the way of fuel consumption.

GD