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Euro 4 - Secondary Air Supply Pump

Discussion in 'Cal 1400 8V' started by PaulDavies, May 15, 2019.

  1. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    As many of you know Guzzi has been fitting recent 1400s (like my 2016 Audace) with a secondary air supply pump to help it meet Euro 4 emissions. My understanding is that this injects oxygen into the exhaust to help burn unburnt fuel when you back off the throttle making it run ultra lean. There's a picture of the pump here on the lower left side of the bike. If you grovel around you will see it connects to two rubber hoses that eventually connect to metal pipes that enter each cylinder head just to the inside of the exhaust pipe.

    Having previously fitted Todd's PCV/AT300 I noticed during a recent visit to the site that he had added a comment that the hoses should be pulled and the metal pipes plugged. This topic has been discussed at length on the V7/V9 forum and Todd even has a kit to fix it (https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/gtm-secondary-air-supply-sas-block-off-kit.18018/) but I was unaware of this fix for the 1400 so I thought I would give it a try and report my findings.

    All I can say is what a transformation for something that is practically free, OK - about $1 for a couple of silicone based caps to fit over the 3/8" inch (1cm) metal pipes.

    Idle is now much more rhythmic and stable, no sense of the throttle hunting slightly at a standstill and rocking the bike in the process, it fees more stable at the lights for example.

    Throttle response is massively improved in the lower revs ranges. Twist and there's instant response from 1500 rpm onwards - any gear. No sense of a small hiccup or delay while the fuelling has a "think". Just smooth, predictable, linear response to throttle input.

    Just as impressive is what happens when you back off slightly, there's no sudden deceleration like you've backed off fully or hit the brakes, just a nice smooth gentle deceleration (like you get in a car for instance) and gives me the confidence to lean the bike over in a sweeper and just make small changes to trajectory based on throttle inputs.

    The transition from on/off/on with the throttle is also more predictable. I can coast down to a left or right turn/junction with the throttle closed, turn in and then apply the throttle and get a smooth predictable response that sends me where I want to go. Both of the above would previously have caused small lurches that would upset the suspension and steering geometry.

    As a result of the improved throttle response, gear changes are now noticeably smoother due to the revs not dying so quickly when you pull in the clutch and back off the throttle. Previously I'm embarrassed to say I sometimes used to switch to pioggia mode around town for it's gentler throttle response. Not any more, I use veloce everywhere.

    The engine also sounds much smoother and more mellow, more like a growl and less rattly (see below) - Note I still have the original exhaust. Any residual pops and farts from the exhaust have completely disappeared. I didn't hear a single one today. The original factory set up ran so lean I had them everywhere. Fitting the PCV/AT300 made a huge difference, but I still used to get them, just less often and a lot quieter, but now I don't have them at all.

    I've posted previously about a strange rattle from the engine at around 2500 rpm (https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/strange-rattle-from-the-beast.17431/). This appears to have completely gone !! I knew I was onto something with this when I pulled the hose off the metal pipe on one cylinder and started then engine (just to see which way air was flowing). The noise coming from the exposed metal pipe was a loud "clack" which sounded just like the rattle I had before. I can only think that plugging the end caps and effectively separating the two cylinders has stopped any interaction between them.

    Now my Audace has become two bikes. It's a cruiser when I'm feeling lazy and want to take in the view and a sports bike when I want to carve it up.

    Any downsides - well I think there's more exhaust fumes coming out of the bike when I start it up in the Garage. If there's any changes to MPG it's not noticeable and to be honest I don't care as it's the best improvement I've made to my bike - Donation to the site coming your way Todd for this great fix.

    SAS 1400.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
    sir fred and Didier like this.
  2. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Excellent Paul, thanks for posting. I’ve just completed my first prototype kit for the 1400, which consists of two “nuts” to cap the heads, and a pigtail plug for the pump (disconnect or removal). Careful on those rubber caps, they’ll hole, disintegrate or pop off if the bike sneezes at all.
     
  3. Didier

    Didier Tuned and Synch'ed

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    How long does it take to do the job?
     
  4. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Almost no time at all. There's a small finger compressible clip that holds each rubber hose onto its corresponding metal pipe. Squeeze the clip and wriggle the rubber hose down off the end of the pipe. Squeeze a silicon cap onto each of the bare pipes and just to hold in place, I pushed the rubber hoses back onto the pipe (over the top of the silicon cap) and secured it with the clips.

    If there's an issue, simply reverse the process - nothing permanent and no cutting involved. I got the caps from "Lordco" supplies here in Vancouver. They seem quite substantial especially given that the air pressure didn't seem that high when I put a finger over the pipe. I gave the throttle some stick before reattaching the rubber just to make sure the caps wouldn't blow off or blow through (as Todd warns above) and they stayed put. Putting the rubber back over the top was for added security and cosmetics.

    I realise that the pump cannot blow air through any more, but it didn't seem to be a problem. The good thing is the pipe itself does not get hot - after a 2 hour ride, I got straight off and put my finger on the pipe and I could leave it there, so no problem with anything melting
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
  5. Didier

    Didier Tuned and Synch'ed

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    thank you Paul.
     
  6. Didier

    Didier Tuned and Synch'ed

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    When I removed the pump, the engine light came on so I put every thing back and I reset it.
     
  7. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Yes it will do that, although as Todd says on the site, the engine light comes on anyway with the PCV/AT300 (on the Audace/Euro 4 compliant bikes) as the original O2 sensors are removed and replaced by new wideband versions that only connect to the AT300. The ECU thus cannot see them and throws a light.
     
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  8. Brian Moon .

    Brian Moon . Just got it firing!

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    Hi Todd
    When will the kit be available , is it true if I used your fueling upgrade system on my 2016 Audace Euro 4 would I end up with a engine management light on ?
     
  9. chai rome

    chai rome Just got it firing!

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    To be clear, with a stock 1400 bike, is it advisable to remove the pump and cap things off, or is this something you guys are solely doing to compliment the new fuel mapping/mods?
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2019
  10. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Well I did it because of Todds advice w.r.t to the Power Commander and Autotune. I'm guessing capping the pipes would reduce the popping on the overrun. If you remove the pump I believe you will get a Yellow "check engine" Light
     
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  11. chai rome

    chai rome Just got it firing!

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    Roger; cap lines but keep pump to avoid throwing a cel.
    Thanks
     

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