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Evap removal from V7III

Discussion in 'V7/V85/V9 Chat & Tech' started by Godfrey, Oct 17, 2017.

  1. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    oil mist mixed with water vapour
     
  2. Larry Vance

    Larry Vance Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    So the problem in line 5 is that valve. Can I just disconnect it from the canister and leave it open?
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Richard Ducati

    Richard Ducati Tuned and Synch'ed

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    The cannister side can be left open...the manifold side, however, needs to be plugged to avoid a vacuum leak.
     
  4. PokeyGuzzi

    PokeyGuzzi Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Would it be a dumb idea to put a small fuel filter at the end of the un-plugged hose? I’m thinking it would both keep any dust from possibly getting up the line, and also slow the flow of any fuel that makes its way down the line. Is there a better filter idea? Or is it pointless?
     
  5. Mayakovski

    Mayakovski High Miler GT Famiglia

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    It's a good idea, I believe that Todd was working on one for this exact use, but am not sure.
     
  6. Godfrey

    Godfrey High Miler GT Famiglia

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    Some people like it and feel more secure doing it. In the distant past I added a small K&N filter to the breather on my Ducati 750GT; I know it was there for 6000 miles but noticed it missing at 36000 miles; never saw any difference in the oil or running behavior of the bike. My LeMans V ran over 100,000 miles with just an open tube as a vent breather on the tank and never had a single problem, as did many other motorcycles I've owned. Because of that, I think it's pointless.

    Since I did my EVAP removal, I added a short extension to the tank breather hose so that it hangs down just below the starter/level with the bottom of the transmission, purely because I thought the short hose was a little too short... I've never had any fumes from it nor has there been any evidence that dust has gotten into the tank from it.
     
  7. squirrelyrf

    squirrelyrf Just got it firing!

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    I've got a 17' V9 bobber , does the evap removal apply to the V9 as it does to the 7. If so could an occasional run away or hanging throttle issue occurring when the bike is hot be caused by the evap system. I've checked the throttle cable and no hang up or pinch, bike only has maybe 2000 miles on it . I have appointment with mech and dealer, but ?
     
  8. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Sure is, and shouldn’t cause a hanging idle, no. Sounds like something else may be wrong (though intake leak would cause a high idle.)
     
  9. PokeyGuzzi

    PokeyGuzzi Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I just performed this operation after reading through this thread over the past couple of weeks. The whole thing took me less than an hour. Could probably be done in 15 minutes if you’ve done it twice already.

    One thing I did, which I haven’t seen mentioned yet, is purchase some stainless barbed plugs on eBay. If you search “1/4 stainless barb plug” you’ll get several results. Worked perfectly to plug the hose. I also used a brass 1/4” barbed coupler from the hardware store to extend the breather hose down below everything. That way if it does leak (which I don’t expect), it’ll leak onto the ground without getting on anything. I used oetiker clamps on all fittings.

    I wasn’t having any issues that made this immediately necessary, but it would need to be done when my 2>1 exhaust eventually shows up. I had some free time so figured now’s as good a time as any.
     
    idungutzed likes this.
  10. Roger65

    Roger65 Just got it firing!

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    So I think I understand this. If I wanted to remove everything cleanly I could

    1) Remove hose 5 from manifold and use a vacuum cap on the manifold stub
    2)Remove Hose (5) Canister (1) Hose (2) and Valve (3)
    3)Extend Hose (4) down to vent below bike

    Keep removed parts for next owner to reinstall if desired.

    Am I on the right track? I know this has been explained five different ways, I’m a slow learner.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2019
  11. PokeyGuzzi

    PokeyGuzzi Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Step 3 is optional, but yes you’ve got it right. The vac cap on the manifold would need securing of some kind. Otherwise, a backfire could blow it off. Someone mentioned, I think in this thread somewhere, that leaving the hose on and plugging at the end gives the gasses a little expansion room. I don’t know if it’s enough to make a difference...
     
  12. Roger65

    Roger65 Just got it firing!

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    Excellent! Thank you
     
  13. Roger65

    Roger65 Just got it firing!

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    73B5A973-EBF3-47CE-A498-594D8EEC4F1F.jpeg

    So I did the evap delete, here is where my fuel line ended up venting



    2BAC8841-A48C-4A74-9DE3-0D5F72836F0E.jpeg

    Here is where I cut and capped the vacuum line to the manifold.




    04F37132-E39B-4328-8FC3-4BF6EA09C70E.jpeg

    Here is a photo of what I removed.

    Everything was straightforward, not sure about the fuel venting location. Maybe I will put a small filter on the line. I can see vapor coming out of there after a ride.
     
    Mayakovski likes this.
  14. SMTCapeCod

    SMTCapeCod Mechanochondriasism GT di Razza Pura

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    I would drop a few $ to upgrade, rather than amputate, but realize I'm in the minority.
    For now, I just leave the fuel filler cap too loose to vacuum seal.

    I have to do a lot of stop and go on my commute- sometimes an hour with net speed 8 mph. Usually around the 40 min mark, irrespective of air temp, the idle will kick up a couple hundred rpm. This can happen with no control inputs, dead stop/no jostling, feet on the ground.

    I could see it as a design element to increase oiling during hot temps/low rpms, or to increase flow through the cats, but have never read anything along those lines.

    Thought maybe the fuel pump was impeded pulling down the fuel when the cap was tight if the evap system wasn't working well, hence the looser cap approach.
     
  15. dududuckling

    dududuckling Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I brought it to the mechanic today and had this completed.

    On the breather line from the gas tank to the Evap canister: the valve is removed / by-passed, so the line is straight and open.

    On the vacuum line from the Evap canister to the intake manifold: cut in the middle, jam a slug on the opening closest to the intake manifold (I put yellow clamp and zip-tied to make sure the slug stays in place), on the side to the Evap canister is removed.

    Evap canister stays in place and has an open end on the side where the vacuum line used to be attached. Hopefully if I overfill the gas tank, it drips to the Evap canister and evaporates.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. PierLuigi

    PierLuigi Just got it firing!

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    Question: can I disconnect the breather valve from the sensor without causing a CEL?
     
  17. Godfrey

    Godfrey High Miler GT Famiglia

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    I don't understand the question. There is no sensor in this system, and I'm not sure what a "CEL" is. ??
     
  18. PierLuigi

    PierLuigi Just got it firing!

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    When I checked my EVAP lines on my 2018 V7 III, I noticed that the breather valve si connect to an electric wire that I assume is a sensor. Will the disconnection of the valve cause a Check Engine Light (CEL)?
     
  19. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Post a photo of this. Never seen this on even one, on any model, all the way up to 2019s.
     
    Mayakovski likes this.
  20. PierLuigi

    PierLuigi Just got it firing!

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    Ok I just double checked and you’re right! My bad. The wire I saw is the lambda probe connected to the opposite side. I really appreciate your interest anyhow. I love this forum already and my Guzzi. Thank you again for the support
     

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