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Evap removal from V7III

Discussion in 'V7/V85/V9 Chat & Tech' started by Godfrey, Oct 18, 2017.

  1. PierLuigi

    PierLuigi Just got it firing!

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    When I checked my EVAP lines on my 2018 V7 III, I noticed that the breather valve si connect to an electric wire that I assume is a sensor. Will the disconnection of the valve cause a Check Engine Light (CEL)?
     
  2. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Post a photo of this. Never seen this on even one, on any model, all the way up to 2019s.
     
    Mayakovski likes this.
  3. PierLuigi

    PierLuigi Just got it firing!

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    Ok I just double checked and you’re right! My bad. The wire I saw is the lambda probe connected to the opposite side. I really appreciate your interest anyhow. I love this forum already and my Guzzi. Thank you again for the support
     
  4. PierLuigi

    PierLuigi Just got it firing!

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    Just removed the evap line. Below some pictures. I removed the breather valve, replaced it with a fitter 1/4 to 3/16 and left the tank line plugged into the canister so the carbon compound will absorb fumes odor. Then I unplugged the intake line from both sides: canister and manifold intake and plugged the hose on both sides with 2 small caps so the hose remains in place but completely disconnected. Ultimately, installed a vacuum cap on the intake manifold with a clamp. A 1/4 vacuum cap works just fine but I preferred a 3/16 so it goes more snug.

    F24653FD-6F1D-40F8-A842-C52D964329E5.jpeg FC8F3B3A-E09F-4311-BCCE-27108940B6DE.jpeg D041EBDF-FD82-4B34-8EE6-3C3CB257CBCD.jpeg 1A15F152-5B8A-4F0E-ADD6-881F0E44A1F9.jpeg CADB81F1-3712-4131-86F5-9DDEC43E824D.jpeg 41DD0D60-874C-49F5-B7C8-D67581F1AC6D.jpeg 3B10376A-343D-4531-95BE-13E6AA1814CE.jpeg 74E84097-AB04-4288-9C9E-C9E36AEBCF8B.jpeg
     
  5. Ed Paaij

    Ed Paaij Just got it firing!

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    Indeed, I have also been riding since 1968 and I decided I needed a Motorcycle that I could service myself and suitable for commuting. So I purchased a 2019 V7 III Special last month. Now I have never had a Moto Guzzi before and I had to go to Portland Oregon a 430 mile ride home since there are no dealers in Boise Idaho. I was surprised how the idle seemed rough and it some how felt like it lacked some torque below 2800 RPM. I thought perhaps it needed some miles on it and did nothing about it nor had I read any posts here about it. When I came home I put on some more miles and qt 980 miles decided to do the first service and I also removed the tank so I could route some wires under it for a power outlet. In any case I spotted the hose coming from the tank breather and that Canister was annoying me since it was in the way under the engine where I put a jack to raise the rear wheel. So I decided to remove this plastic junk while I had everything apart. SO I went to the Automotive parts store and found rubber vacuum caps and a small sintered metal fuel filter which fits in the rubber hose that comes from the tank. I then removed the canister and the hose from the inlet manifold plugged the inlet with the rubber cap and a hose clamp. And plugged the filter into the air inlet from the tank and finished my service and put everything back together. And surprise the idle was steady and I now have smooth torque from 1500 RPM onward (depending on gear) That is when I started to see if this was unique to my experience and it appears not. When I checked the one way valve that is supposed to only let air into the tank not out it did not work properly and I could blow air in both directions. This part seems to be a cheap part and I would replace it with a metal part with a spring and ball bearing if I wanted to keep the evap crap. Since I live in Idaho it is not needed so good riddance. That is my experience with it...
     
  6. Dave-DC-rider

    Dave-DC-rider Just got it firing!

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    Thanks for posting this procedure with pictures. I bought a used 2017 V7iii last summer. I've noticed some tank suck when taking the gas cap off and it seems to struggle a little to find its idle when I first start the bike (and sometimes when the bike is hot.) The idle is now about 50RPMS lower than it had been. Do you think removing the EVAP will help with this? I'm thinking about trying it but I'm a little worried about screwing something up. Do I plug the tank breather hose after cutting it? I thought I needed that line to be open in order for the tank to breath? That's the only part that's throwing me. How's your bike holding up 2 year later?

    EDIT: I've done some more reading on this procedure since I posted my question and everything seems to make sense now. As far as the breather hose, would it work if I just remove the clamps that hold the check valve in place on then stick a small fuel filter or something that connects the two halves and lets air flow through... leaving the other end attached to the EVAP canister? Hope that question makes sense. It seems like the evap can would catch any gas that might splash into the hose and reduce fumes if I leave it attached and just replace that check valve thing with some sort of hose connector. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2020
  7. Dave-DC-rider

    Dave-DC-rider Just got it firing!

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    Thanks for posting those pictures, I'm getting ready to disconnect my evap canister. What did you use to connect the breather hose parts after removing that check-valve thing? And what's the easiest way to get those clamps off? I'm going to do the same thing and leave the breather hose connected to the canister. I'll remove the check valve and replace it with some other connector that allows air to flow. Also, why did you use a 1/4 to 3/16 connector, are the hoses on either side of the aray and green check valve different sizes? Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2020
  8. aproud1

    aproud1 Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    The hose is a different size. You can get the 3/16" into the 1/4" hose with a little work(I used a dab of vacuum grease).

    I originally turned my canister into a vent filter like you're describing. I eventually just got rid of it all and left a brass coupler on the vent hose. Tied it up so that if fuel does vent, it would dump on the ground mid bike. During operation I really don't see that as an issue since you should have negative pressure in the tank.

    The canister can get in the way when I jack up the bike to work on (nose chock and hydraulic lift mid bike on the bar just behind the canister). Haven't had any leaks and I've found I only smell gas after a good ride, the bike is parked in the garage and the tank is full. Not a strong smell but you can smell it. With the canister on I still smelled fuel under the same conditions, maybe a little less. I'm of the opinion that a garage should have a smell of fuel present.

    Like you, I had a lot of negative pressure in the tank. After I initially bypassed, Idle was smoother.
     
    Wildroamer likes this.

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