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excessive heat from right hand jug.

M

max

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Famiglia
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
60
Well, hear's another question from the Breva rookie. :huh: . The heat coming off the bikes right hand jug is really uncomfortable. The left one is much less and really no problem . I realize that in slow traffic this heat might be normal. But-- when tooling down the highway at say 50 to 60 mph, the heat is still a problem. The inside of my lower leg gets really hot and no matter if I'm wearing jeans or mesh or a solid fabric riding pant, it is very hot on that side. Even my boot gets really hot . When i get off the bike, the inside of my right leg is really hot. I'm concerned that the right side is running lean and may be doing damage to the motor itself. I just had the 1st dealer check about 1000 miles ago and they did not report any problems.
So , my friends, what is your opinion on this situation? Am I taking a chance on damaging the motor? Should I shut her down until I can get the dealer to take a look at it? Or say nuts with it and buy a sheet of reflective material and glue it to my right lower leg?
All kidding aside, I am quite concerned about damaging the motor. This bike is providing me so much fun and I really don't want to screw it up. Thanks as always--Max
 
max

Is the exhaust header on the "hot" side more "cheerful" than the other?
Has your bike had the tappets adjusted recently?
Has the vacuum balance and TPS been reset recently?
Has the operation of the fuel injectors been checked recently?

While I rarely ride in over 30C temps, heat has never been an issue on my Breva. For a really hot right leg, try a Buell!
 
Hey Max, You should be aware that they do run hot. In summer I have to consciously ride with my legs spread apart a bit to keep the temp of my trouser legs down.

While I agree with Grahams suggestions completely and they all should be checked, You should think about the PCV as it will reduce the operating temp of the bike I suspect by a noticeable amount.
 
Well, it only has 2000 miles on it right now Graham. It had its' 1st dealer check a few months ago. Whether they adjusted anything I don't really know. I'll dig up the bill and check that out. In regard to the right side header, what am I supposed to look for? Does it look happy. You've got his rookie hangin' in the breeze on that one! :laugh: Thanks for you input as always. Max
 
I'll talk to the service manager about the PCV as you suggest. Is that similiar to the PCV valve used on an automobile? Thanks Mike
 
My Breva gets really hot too, but never gave it a thought that it is abnormal. I must say that the heat from the RH side is indeed more then from the LH side and I'm convinced that my motor is 100% ok. Also on longer distance on the highway it gives a lot of heat. Especially after riding 112 mph for half an hour on the German Autobahn :p on a quiet sunday morning. Just before the 20000 km service it ran a little raw and almost stalled riding slow in second gear. I didn't mention it when I brought the bike to TLM. I was curious if they came to the same conclusion. It was the first thing Herman (the mechanic) told me when I collected my bike. He adjusted the neccesary (I don't know what :blush: ) but I notice that it runs like a Swiss precision watch now. It should be with all the oils changed, 4 new spark plugs, filters etc.

And Mike it looks silly the way you ride :laugh: I'm standing on my steps for a
minute to cool down, even looks "cooler" too IMHO.

Ciao Dolf.
 
Brevabrabo wrote:
And Mike it looks silly the way you ride :laugh: I'm standing on my steps for a
minute to cool down, even looks "cooler" too IMHO.
Click to expand...

Congenital deformation in a country that used to live on horse-back ;) Just like standing on the foot rests is a likely genetical adaptation to bicycling against a wind that's always just to strong and in your face ;)
 
Actually being a farm boy riding with a "wide" stance is more normal than what I call "the sport bike ball crunch", and indeed standing on the pegs is even more normal seeing as IMHO dirt is the natural environment for a motorcycle ;)

Max: Sorry to come in late but you know how it is with time zones and other important stuff like sex and blowin zeds, and anyway I prefer the dark side of the world. Where was I now, nearly got distracted.... Ah yes - to your question, indeed I was suggesting the Power Commander V fuel injection controller from Todd as correctly pointed out.
 
Breva 11's more so than any of the other *new* models are notorious for cooking their riders legs, particularly the right one. It is unlikely to be related to the right cylinder and head running hotter, it seems to be the result of the oil cooler position and the fact that the alternator fan pushes hot air out around (especially) the right leg.

Pete
 
One of the things that keeps me coming back here besides the excellent advice, is the humor! I get just as many laughs as I do solid advice. Thanks a bunch to all of you for your help on this matter. I do feel better knowing the engine isn't going to croak due to the heat. I'll just mention it to the mechanic next time and just spread 'm and air 'em out a bit till then. Max
 
Max,

I have been running a B11 in hot and cold weather for a couple of years now and haven't noticed a significant heat difference between the right and left side. I don't think the amount of heat you are feeling on the right side is normal. Do you see a distinct difference in discoloration on the header pipes? The discoloration on the header pipes should be similar. Not exact, but similar. If you see a big difference, than I would readjust the tappets, reset TPS and do a TB balance.

I have witnessed a dealer adjust my tappets and be off by .10mm. After realizing what I was witnessing during the service, I took the bike straight home and readjusted the tappets properly and immediately purchased a VDSTS from GT-Rx on this forum. The engine has never run better.
 
How would the tappets affect heat?

I also feel more heat on the RHS, but it's on my rear thigh. I expect it's hot air circling back and not being blocked by the 'mudflap' fairing (RHS one is broken in half).
 
The best way to cool a b11 is to lose the cat bag and fit a xover. The temp drop is very noticable.
 
RJVB wrote:
How would the tappets affect heat?
Click to expand...

A tappet that is not properly adjusted could cause for example, an exhaust valve to leak compression (i.e. not properly seat). Hence, the excess heat one might feel from one cylinder. One thing I noticed while breaking in the B11 is it required frequent tappet adjustments and tuning. These engines seem to take a longer time to break in and I believe the MG recommended tappet adjustment intervals are insufficient. Tappet adjustments should be more frequent. And because you adjust tappets, than you should reset the TPS and balance the TBs for a better running engine. The adjustments on my tappets did not stabilize until ~7,500 miles.

nel wrote:
The best way to cool a b11 is to lose the cat bag and fit a xover. The temp drop is very noticable.
Click to expand...

I agree with nel. Changing out my Cat for a GT-Rx crossover significantly reduced the overall heat from the bike.

I switched bikes for a short ride with a friend last weekend. He rides a BMW K1200S. Among other characteristics of the BMW, I was surprised how much more heat the K1200S dissipates around the leg area. Although I liked certain things about the BMW, I couldn't wait to get back on my Guzzi.
 
You're probably right, but that heat has to go somewhere, even with valves that are properly seated
 
RJVB wrote:
Also, the TPS *should* be independent from valve adjustment, no? [/quote]

You have to balance first, that is dependent from valve adjustment.
 
Tuning procedure I use at 10,000km intervals:

Adjust tappets. (Tendency for clearances to open by up to 0.05mm)
Replace outer plugs. (Recommended, and they're cheap.)
Reset TPS. (Using VDSTS and a PC laptop.)
Adjust vacuum balance at 3,000rpm. (Using home-made manometer.)
Reset TPS again. (Essential if vacuum has been adjusted at all.)
Adjust vacuum balance at idle. (One air-bleed screw only, slightly open.)
 
GrahamNZ wrote:
Tuning procedure I use at 10,000km intervals:

Adjust tappets. (Tendency for clearances to open by up to 0.05mm)
Replace outer plugs. (Recommended, and they're cheap.)
Reset TPS. (Using VDSTS and a PC laptop.)
Adjust vacuum balance at 3,000rpm. (Using home-made manometer.)
Reset TPS again. (Essential if vacuum has been adjusted at all.)
Adjust vacuum balance at idle. (One air-bleed screw only, slightly open.)
Click to expand...

I've been following Graham's procedure from the beginning. It conforms to the Guzzi manual, except Graham outlined the procedures in clearer language and better detail. So, Tappets, TPS reset, TB balance, and TPS reset again will keep your Guzzi happy.
 
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