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Factory Fork Oil

Discussion in 'Small Block' started by Duane Beery, Apr 17, 2019.

  1. Duane Beery

    Duane Beery Just got it firing!

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    I would like to change my fork oil but I have no idea what weight the factory put in. The owner's manual says either 5W or 20W? That's a big difference in fork action. If I wanted to increase the action I would put a lighter oil and vise versa but if it's 5W I wouldn't want to go any lighter. Not knowing what's in it now doesn't help much. Does anybody have an idea what MG puts in at the factory?

    BTW: 2007 Breva 750

    Thanks.
     
  2. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT Famiglia

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    10 weight seems to work well for most folks. That is what I'm using in my 1100 Breva. Heavier oil will give you more damping.
     
  3. Macdaddygou

    Macdaddygou Just got it firing!

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    I just finished with a complete tear down, cleaning along with new SKF low friction seals on my 04 breva 750. I used the MOTAL 7.5w full synthetic racing fork oil. all I can say is WOW its a different bike the old original seals were leaking so the dampening was shit one fork was 100ml less in volume than the other after draining. So with the cleaned pistons new seals and proper amount of oil is transforming it went from a diver under braking into a corner, into a smooth cornering bike again.
     
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  4. Duane Beery

    Duane Beery Just got it firing!

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    Thanks for the tips. So did you really have to take the fork tubes off and tip them upside down to empty the fluid? sounds like a PITA just to change the fluid.
     
  5. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT Famiglia

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    That is what has to be done. Not like the older bikes that had a drain plug.
     
  6. Macdaddygou

    Macdaddygou Just got it firing!

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    Yes Its is. also advisable to dismantle and clean all the bits of wear that will be inside the tubes and replace the fork seals while you are dismantled. how many miles would you say are on the fork oil and seals? The procedure is in the repair manual and its not that bad to do depending on your mechanical skill set. I made my own seal driver and it is the easiest seal driver I've ever used. removing the old seals I fashioned a hook to use with a slide hammer that holds the inside lip of the seals metal ring I was able to remove the seal without an issue
    and the new were installed with ease with the driver.
     
  7. Duane Beery

    Duane Beery Just got it firing!

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    Thanks. The bike only has 3600 miles on it so I probably won't mess with it for a while. I was going through the complete 3000 mile maintenance schedule and thought about replacing the fluid for the fun of it. But there is nothing wrong with it. The seals don't leak and it handles fine. I'll wait for the 9000 mile maintenance schedule.
     

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