Falcone clutch install info

[GTM®]

I bought a Dec '62 Falcone Tuismo from Switzerland about 8 years ago. It came to me partly disassembled so I am having some issues putting it back together again!
The bike came with the clutch off and a new one in a packet ready to go in and a new little bearing for the end of the clutch rod. Now I can get the new plates all in no worries, and I worked out the reverse thread on the spring(s) retainer.
But I can't work out how to get the thing all installed. Can someone please walk me through the process step by step?
Do I need to make a clutch spring compressor??

Gavin: Since you have the plates installed, I'm not fully clear on what part of the installation is problematic. BTW, when you thread the release rod through the outer pressure plate of the stack, it should be installed so that one turn of thread is exposed proud outboard of the plate.

I suspect you are having trouble with the left-hand, hollow, externally threaded tube which is notched to mate with the head end of the throwout rod. Is that correct? Two hands just won't cut it for this task.

Install the shaft through this threaded tube. It helps to have someone else on the clutch end to hold the clutch plate parts so you don't push all of that toward the left. Install the springs over the tube and you will likely knock the tube out of position. Now the trick is to reach between the spring coils with a small screwdriver and pry or hold the threaded tube outward against the head of the clutch rod so the notches stay engaged. While holding these bits in place, you should be able to install the knurled, outer, spring compressor disc and thread it onto the tube (left hand thread). You only need to catch one turn of thread or so and then you can remove your prying screwdriver. Don't bother to fully tension the clutch spring until all the parts are in place and wheels on the ground.

I suspect your problems arise because when you install the knurled spring compression disc you have a tendency to push all the parts (especially the threaded tube) leftward or inward and can't catch the first thread of the tube. The second problem is that you can't turn to catch that first thread without all of the parts moving. Again, it helps to have someone else holding all the bits in the clutch side so that nothing moves.

Great Patrick, thanks.
The bits I needed were...
1. One thread outboard of the plate
2. helps to have someone else
3. small screwdriver and pry or hold the threaded tube

Followed by;
Well that worked!
One thread out of the clutch pressure plate, girlfirend holding the clutch, screw driver to lever the threaded tube towards the nut..... magic.
According to my rough translation of the handbook, would I be correct in assuming I have the wind the nut on until the springs are compressed to 27.5mm?
I that it? No locking device? Does it all just stay put? It does not vibrate out of adjustment at all?

27.5mm is correct. No locking device and it doesn't come loose.

That's it. Use a caliper to measure the final compressed distance. Actually pretty hard to get it much tighter. Bike on the ground. Someone with a foot on the brake pedal. You can do most of it by hand but it will start to get painful as you approach full compression. I use a small length of leather strap and some channel lock pliers to do the final adjustment. You could just use the pliers, but that would cosmetically tear up the disk knurling surface.