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Fast Idle when HOT Stumped

I know the OP says that on his bike they blocked off the stepper, but I did not see where that was done to your bike, JJC1957.
As mentioned, your issue is not that weird. With no drag on the motor the idle is too high. With the slight drag from letting out the clutch (even in neutral there is drag with the clutch out) the idle drops to where it should be.
First thing to check is the stepper motor. If that is not it the next thing I would look for is an air leak. And the third thing would be the throttle plates (sacred screw) may have been messed with and is now the throttle plates are too far open.
It is just a motor. It works under the same principles as any other motor, even though it is a Moto Guzzi.
 
StormShearon said:
Actually, it may be a problem with the clutch switch. I ran into this on my '07 Norge. For some reason they tie the switch into the idle - I think it is done so as you release the clutch while in gear there is an automatic increase in RPM. But if the switch is bad (what happened with mine) the ECU seems to think it needs to up the idle to 1800. Something to check out anyway.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I broke the tender, delicate clutch switch when fooling around trying on different handlebars. Immediately after breaking this switch I experienced the high idle symptoms (~1500-1800 RPM) when stopping with the clutch pulled in. When I shift into neutral, the idle settles back to normal (`1100RPM). I have a new switch on order and anticipate this will put my California back to normal.
 
Ok reporting back on the fix. I put the Mistral exhaust on and my idle went up to 2,000 to 2,100 RPM's. I then checked the stepper motor working correctly, not the clutch switch, not and air leak, not the sacred screw, not the throttle bodies it was the EVAP system. I took the top line off the canister and blocked it and the bike came down to 1,100 RPM in about two seconds. I want to thank every one for all the help. I am new to Guzzi but old to bikes. My last bike was a Triumph Thunderbird 1600 SE and the web sites for info were great and I am finding the same thing here. Thanks again
Idle fix1
 
JJC1957 said:
Ok reporting back on the fix. I put the Mistral exhaust on and my idle went up to 2,000 to 2,100 RPM's. I then checked the stepper motor working correctly, not the clutch switch, not and air leak, not the sacred screw, not the throttle bodies it was the EVAP system. I took the top line off the canister and blocked it and the bike came down to 1,100 RPM in about two seconds. I want to thank every one for all the help. I am new to Guzzi but old to bikes. My last bike was a Triumph Thunderbird 1600 SE and the web sites for info were great and I am finding the same thing here. Thanks again
View attachment 8979
Click to expand...

If that solved the problem, I have to wonder if the issue may be with the one-way pressure valve in the line between the canister and the throttle bodies. In any case, removing the canister is a not uncommon practice even among those who have experienced no problems. I used the vacuum line to good purpose - and installed a cruise control.
 
Which line did you block off?
Usually when people remove the evap system they block off the line that goes to the intake tract and remove the valve in the side that goes to the fuel tank.
 
This picture was taken before I removed the canister. I took the two remaining lines and hooked them together Idle fix1
 
I don't have this bike I have a V7 but I had the gas tank suction sound when opening. I removed the emission stuff and I had a blue and orange check valve that also removed. Replaced that hose with a new one and cut to length and it dangles under bike. I believe I capped one hose where it went into my air box.
 
Look at the hoses involved. One will probably be a vacuum line to the engine, a leak on that line is probably what was causing your high idle. Plug that line off as close to the engine as possible.

There should also be a hose from the tank which relieves the pressure. That one you need to leave open to the atmosphere or else you'll get the pressure in the tank.
 
Mine too does the same thing. Start at 1100 rpm, but when hot and in gear, sometimes goes up to nearly 2000. But mine too if put in neutral goes back to 1100. Hey... italian bikes... still love it anyhow.
 
RedNorge said:
Mine too does the same thing. Start at 1100 rpm, but when hot and in gear, sometimes goes up to nearly 2000. But mine too if put in neutral goes back to 1100. Hey... italian bikes... still love it anyhow.
Click to expand...
Not sure of the year of your Norge but my 2007 I had would start and run terrible or stall if parked in the sun. I ran a hose between the 2 connectors on the inlet manifolds, ran the fuel tank vent and the drain around the filler to a T then to a regular hose with an open end and removed all the other hoses and the cannister. Ran much better. I am in the process of doing the same to my 2012 now.
 
Have bought a new clutch switch and I beleive that was the problem. No high rpm now not once. First my bike doesnt have the canister under the seat. Canadian model. Should have think of it sooner. Anyway it is very simple to see if the switch is working, try to start the bike in gear and the clutch pull in... it should start if the switch is working. But it will not start if the switch is defective. IMO the switch is linked with the ECU maybe for cold starting or else.
roadventure said:
Agreed. I broke the tender, delicate clutch switch when fooling around trying on different handlebars. Immediately after breaking this switch I experienced the high idle symptoms (~1500-1800 RPM) when stopping with the clutch pulled in. When I shift into neutral, the idle settles back to normal (`1100RPM). I have a new switch on order and anticipate this will put my California back to normal.
Click to expand...
 
On my Breva 1100, when I pull the clutch in the revs increase by about 200rpm. I think its to offset any load put on by the operation of the clutch. The high revs when cold starting I believe is controlled by temp sender on the block.
Kev
 
Just for the record, the stepper AND the throttle butterflies both get crud in them, over time. Removing the throttle bodies is needed if you overfill (even slightly) the oil in the sump - even though there is a self levelling system built in (yeah right, dump the excess in the airbox where it gets sucked into the throttle bodies). Unfortunately the stepper motor, can and does get crud as well.

Removing the throttle bodies when all is not well is only a small, but time consuming task, as long as you don't muck about with the sacred screws. Easily cleaned with carb cleaner.

The stepper motor is easy and doesn't need to be removed from the bike. Pull the hose from the airbox, that feeds the stepper, pour in 10-15 ml of "liquimoly carb and valve cleaner" while the engine is running, but not all at once. Some black/blue/white smoke will come out the exhaust, the engine will stumble, but all should be good (except for terminal cases) from now on, or until the next time.

WARNING - If this is happening (high idle, or the liquimoly doesn't work) on an 8 valve flat tappet engine, the coating on the followers is probably toast, and your engine will be if you don't get it rollerised. It's not a matter if, but when...
 
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Kevin.NZ said:
On my Breva 1100, when I pull the clutch in the revs increase by about 200rpm. I think its to offset any load put on by the operation of the clutch. The high revs when cold starting I believe is controlled by temp sender on the block.
Kev
Click to expand...
Yes your right about the temp sensor controling rpm on start-up. ;)
 
What would happen if the return oil line would go straight to the ground instead of making a pit stop in the airbox and then go to the ground?

ps.: don't call the EPA yet, it's only a question ;-)
 
Nick, this hose needs to go somewhere. I and others, have made an extended hose to replace the one to the airbox. This terminates into a small plastic bottle wedged beside the battery/ Oil never gets into the airbox/throttle bodies now.

Two additional cautions:
1 The little bottle MAY need to be emptied from time to time; and
2 You may smell oily fumes when you turn your bike off after a good ride - this is worse if your garage is under your house (as is mine) and the smell drifts into the house above.

Hell, I even put the gearbox breather in there as well.
 
Oz1200Guzzi said:
Nick, this hose needs to go somewhere. I and others, have made an extended hose to replace the one to the airbox. This terminates into a small plastic bottle wedged beside the battery/ Oil never gets into the airbox/throttle bodies now.

Two additional cautions:
1 The little bottle MAY need to be emptied from time to time; and
2 You may smell oily fumes when you turn your bike off after a good ride - this is worse if your garage is under your house (as is mine) and the smell drifts into the house above.

Hell, I even put the gearbox breather in there as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tony. Since I have the tank off I may just run a hose from the top of the airbox to the battery compartment and use a plastic bottle. Good idea. Thanks.
 
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