• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Final Drive Oil Leak

Jesse P

Just got it firing!
GT Famiglia
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
21
Location
San Francisco
I've got a 2013 V7 Stone, when I changed the oil in the final drive I must have over tightened the drain bolt and there's been a leak since. My problem is the bolt spins freely and will not back out.

Any tips/suggestions for removing the bolt? I was going to attempt to drill it out but wanted to see if there may be a better way if anyone has experienced something similar.
 
Try vice grips, pull and turn at the same time. Also if you can get something like a putty knife under the head while turning that may coax it out.

Once out and oil drained, remove the rear drive and have a machine shop insert a time sert or heli coil. It is imperative that the thread be square to the sealing surface. Consider this a lesson on over tightening. Snug is all you need with a good sealing washer.
 
Putty knife....genius. Worked great, pulled the bolt and looks like only the threads on the bolt were damaged.

Thanks for the tip!
 
Putty knife....genius. Worked great, pulled the bolt and looks like only the threads on the bolt were damaged.

Thanks for the tip!


Look again. the steel drain plug is harder that the casting of the rear drive. if the threads of the plug appear full, that is material from the rear drive case.
 
Back
Top