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Fitting heated grips tip

sib said:
I'll second the recommendation of Koso Apollo grips, they're elegant, simple, and functional. Instead of Dremelling off the throttle tube ridges, I found a replacement tube that fits and doesn't have ridges: Motion Pro 01-0094 Throttle Sleeve; less than $10 on Ebay or Amazon. Also, I wired the grip power wire to the wire that controls power to the headlight, so it powers on only after the engine has started.
Click to expand...

What did you do at the ends- drill the sleeve and caps to accept the factory bar end weights, or go with the Koso end caps?
 
Nevermind, had to cut the 'cap' off in order to get it seated deeply enough to align the switch covers.
The new throttle tube seems to have a slightly different offset for the cables, the idle a little high too, despite taking all the adjustment out at the throttle end.

Would love some descriptive info on intercepting the headlight circuit too. I ran the harness back to the battery-- then noticed that they advise switch power supply. The fuse block is right there so it would be convenient & tidy to just use a fuse tap, but I don't know what's what.

Lastly, even though my Victory is steel-frame, many aftermarket accessories familiar with the bike stress that they need to be connected to a factory ground point, rather than negative terminal or any random bolt to the frame. Is there a similar concern with V7, and if so has anyone seen a depiction of the groundpoints?

Edit- ah-ha! Fuse block! #6/F looks like the ticket.
I also found a capped weatherproof connector by the battery. Wires were orange and blue IIRC. Wonder what that was for and if it could be repurposed. Sadly, I'm in no mood to mess with test lights and voltmeters.
 

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After two attempts, the aftermarket throttle sleeve and the glue from the Apollo kit aren't playing well together, and failed to seal.
There was some friction when fitting the grip over the throttle sleeve, but it wasn't as much of an interference fit as the pass side, so I suspect that was part of the problem. And perhaps I didn't sand it enough...

I modified the stock sleeve-- as stated the plastic is pretty easy to shape with a file.
Hope to finish off install and wiring tomorrow.
 
Except I'd have to put mine in the freezer because the fit was (a bit) loose.
Switched back to modified factory tube and it is a better/tighter fit on mine.

Now, the fuse schematic alludes to a "USB" prewiring, and a Dash Blue wire prewiring.
Any guidance on what/where those are? I assume the Dash blue is for lighting tach if so equipped? Or is it accessory as people were finding on the V2s? And there are two weatherproof, capped ends on mine, one near the battery and one tidily clipped to the ABS/Spare fuse block behind the air cleaner. Would be great to know if/how these might be utilized for accessories?

Mean-time:
blade-fuseholder_add-a-circuit-ato_1___94194.1285279309.jpg


PS I hate electrics...and that's a stock photo, not my crimp job.
 
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SMTCapeCod said:
Except I'd have to put mine in the freezer because the fit was (a bit) loose.
Switched back to modified factory tube and it is a better/tighter fit on mine.

Now, the fuse schematic alludes to a "USB" prewiring, and a Dash Blue wire prewiring.
Any guidance on what/where those are? I assume the Dash blue is for lighting tach if so equipped? Or is it accessory as people were finding on the V2s? And there are two weatherproof, capped ends on mine, one near the battery and one tidily clipped to the ABS/Spare fuse block behind the air cleaner. Would be great to know if/how these might be utilized for accessories?

Mean-time:
blade-fuseholder_add-a-circuit-ato_1___94194.1285279309.jpg


PS I hate electrics...and that's a stock photo, not my crimp job.
Click to expand...

I just received my Koso Apollo heated grips and I'm curious to how you made out! I was going to order the Motion Pro 01-0094 throttle tube until I read the problems with yours. What exactly did you have to cut off the stock throttle sleeve? Did you also have to cut the ends of the grips? And lastly, what are you powering the device with? Are you using a posi-tap into the headlight like Sib?

Any guidance you might be able to provide will be greatly appreciated!
 
All done, used them a couple times and as most indicated, the first few settings were sufficient to take the edge off when wearing good gloves. There's a stop ring in the mold of the factory sleeve. Very thin, comes right off, once you decide to take that COA. See post 17. There are small ridges that run along the sleeve (or tube) as well, and taking them down a bit aided fitment. Sad to say, but I don't recall whether I shortened the sleeve. I did not trim the grip, electing instead to get nylon spacers and longer bolts to push the bar-end weights out a couple mm. For power, I did as described above. I bought the fuse-doubler, it adds a fused hot wire to an existing switched fuse. I believe the fuse identified above is correct, but I attached the factory description of the fuses in the block around here somewhere. There was a little gap between the soft grip and and the switch block, snuck a little flat black in there and its a pretty tight (as in seamless) install.
 
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Got my Koso heated grips installed about 2 weeks ago. What a delight. They look fantastic, you can't even tell they are heated unless you know what to look for. A little slower to heat up than the Oxfords, say 30 seconds for the Oxfords versus 2 minutes for the Koso, but they get just as hot. Very comfortable feel to them and a quality product.

I used the same fuse tap and fuse as noted above and had no issues at all. These grips do have a low power sensor and will power down to keep from draining your battery if left on, but I prefer to know that when the bike is shut off so are the grips.

I did have to file down the ridges on the throttle tube, but that was at most the work of 5 minutes.

Do make sure that if you use the included superglue to attach the grips, that you test fit them first (all the way on) and make sure you can get the grip on and positioned in less than 5 seconds, because that is at most the amount of time you have.

They are going to make my two week ride through BC, Alberta and Saskatchewan in two weeks much more comfortable on cold mornings and in the rain.
 
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