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Fitting Oxford and R&G hot grips

Discussion in 'Stelvio Chat & Tech' started by AlanNZ, Jul 17, 2014.

  1. AlanNZ

    AlanNZ Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    The stock plastic throttle tube as a ridge/lip at the inner end radius - that holds the rubber grip. The Guzzi hot grips come complete with a new tube. Have others ground this ridge/lip off when fitting Oxford grips? I did this on my son's Ducati so the hot grip went all the way onto the throttle tube.

    Has anyone tried the R&G hot grips wired into the bike controls? These are cheaper than the Oxfords and have had good reviews.
    Regards
    Alan NZ
     
  2. fatal

    fatal Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I helped a friend fit some aftermarket heated grips to a Stelvio a while back. I can't remember what brand...but definitely not 'Oxford'. We had to ground the ridges off the grip tube.
     
  3. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I fitted the complete Oxford Hot Grips kit to my Breva 1100 and had to modify the throttle to allow the grip to slide on. I opted not to use the on board controller and I was told the grips are a different resistance and "may" damage the ECU, also I didn't want to alter the wiring connectors under the tank. By the way they work really well.
     
  4. AlanNZ

    AlanNZ Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I decided to order the OEM hot grips from AF1 Racing at $113USD. This was half the price of the same item from Agostini. Postage to NZ is always a killer
    Alan NZ
     
  5. Cage Free

    Cage Free Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Cycle gear has their under grip heaters which go under the stock grips and the oxford style heated grips on sale now at half price. I've used the under grip version on my last few bikes and they work great. I just installed a set on the Stelvio yesterday using the factory switched wires and it couldn't have been easier and for $20.00 can't beat the price.
     
  6. AlanNZ

    AlanNZ Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I've just fitted the OEM grips (just in time for summer!) and very happy with them. Plenty hot enough for NZ conditions.
    Alan NZ
     
  7. canuck1969

    canuck1969 GT Reference GT Contributor

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    I am actually looking at changing my OEM heated grips to a set of oxfords I have. The OEM's just don't get hot enough for the spring and fall in Canada. On the left OEM heated grips, is it glued in place or is there a screw that holds the entire grip on. On the throttle side, since the OEM one came with its own throttle tube, does this mean I will be stripping off the grip. I don't have the original tube since I bought it as a dealer option.
     
  8. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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  9. AlanNZ

    AlanNZ Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Yes two c/s screws on the LH grip (no glue) so easy to remove. The RH grip is a throttle tube so you should be able to remove the rubber and slip the Oxfords over the tube (assuming it is not a larger diameter tube than the non-heated grip).
    Alan NZ
     
  10. canuck1969

    canuck1969 GT Reference GT Contributor

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    Thanks Alan.....sent a note to the dealer where I bought the bike asking if he still has the original grips and then I can use that tube. Doubt is but will see. That way I can try ans sell the OEM heated ones. Still in great shape.
     
  11. AlanNZ

    AlanNZ Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Someone on this list might be interested in an exchange with a bit of cash your way?
    Regards
    Alan NZ
     
  12. Rapier

    Rapier Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Resurrecting this old thread. I am partial to doing what you did and like the idea of using what's already there but have some questions.

    Is what you have the Trackside Grip Heaters listed at the top of this page?
    https://www.cyclegear.com/search?_utf8=✓&query=heated+grips&commit=Search

    Have they worked well? Hot and reliable? No problem with the ECU I assume?

    I have a 13 NTX too. Do you have to stop the bike to change the heat setting? I'd seen something about a firmware change that fixed this but can't imagine paying a dealer to do it. I could live with it, just wondering

    I suppose the ECU knows if the heaters are present if there is a draw on the circuit so when you hooked them up they just worked?\

    Were the supplied wires long enough to reach the factory connection? Did you splice into the factory wires or is it some kind of standard connector one can buy and use?

    Any input appreciated. I am not dead set against the Oxford's but just like the idea of this better if it works well.
     
  13. 11514v

    11514v Tuned and Synch'ed

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    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    A few thoughts, I have experience with both the factory heated grips and oxfords.
    I would recommend the oxford grips, they work well and are inexpensive. The factory heated grips are anaemic and relatively expensive as mentioned before.

    - If you don't want to use the included controller then you can use the built in switch (on the left grip).
    - The 2013 does not need to be stopped to change heat levels. this was a "feature" on the 2009-2011 models and is a real PITA.

    -The oxford controller if not used, works well for controlling gloves, heated vest etc. if you have any.
    - You will have to splice the wires or get the correct connector for the OEM grips to connect to the bike.

    - you will need a relay (see part fiche for p/n) to activate the dash control. There is no issue with the ECU, it is the dash that controls the grips and the relay will supply 12v to the grips.

    - As mentioned elsewhere you will need to modify the factory throttle tube to install the new grips and glue the new ones on. if you need to buy the throttle tube, a set of factory grips is inexpensive.

    I don't have any experience with the trackside heaters but would be concerned about damaging the heating elements during the installation. The built in controller should work with the trackside heaters the same as the oxford grips.
     
  14. Rapier

    Rapier Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I went ahead and bought some after market ones, I got Bike Bandit ones because I am cheap. $40 via Amazon and other vendors.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Z1KQ2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I just got them on the other day and used their controller. All seems pretty high quality with them. The grips went on quite hard, I trimmed the rib on the throttle side. I stuck the controller, temp probably, on the dash to the right of the display on the flat area. I might prefer the factory controller. I don't get what you mean by a relay. A different one in an existing location I guess you mean, Which location, what relay pn. The controller said it had a memory function but that only works if on a keyed power supply. To turn it on or off you have to cycle through all the levels. No big deal.

    The grips are fat, necessary probably because of the heating element, and hard. The stock ones are spongy, something I don't like that much but hadn't thought about. I am still getting used to the vibration from the Guzzi after 30 plus years on Japanese 4 cylinders but the harder grips don't seem to matter. I always wear gloves.
     
  15. canuck1969

    canuck1969 GT Reference GT Contributor

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    2012+ come with the relay. Don't need to get one.
     
  16. Rapier

    Rapier Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Thanks new old friend. I've got 1000K miles on it since we got the charging problem solved by the way. It runs better every day. I am going to redo that hot wire to the relay once I get the tank off and I will probably go to the stock wiring to the heated grips too.

    I am not sure but think the tank has to be off to balance the throttle bodies. I am getting the set up for Guzzidiag so I can reset the TPS. That's what I understand needs to be done.

    I got the 'improved' fuel filter setup from someone. Your probably familiar. Snake oil? I don't know. I figure to take the tank off then for a look see to get familiar and to make that wiring to the relay top notch. On that is there any advantage to putting it on a switched power supply? It is direct to the battery now. I also at the time put the harness wire back in the circuit but wonder if maybe I should just drop that out. There have been no further electrical problems or gremlins.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2017
  17. scottmastrocinque

    scottmastrocinque Scott Mastrocinque GT Famiglia

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    No, the fuel tank does not get removed to balance throttle bodies. That would be impossible as the bike must be running to do this!

    https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/syncing-throttle-bodies-stelvio-8v.9082/

    I do not believe in using the Guzzidiag product as a service tool. It has the potential to cause serious damage to the ECU and there is NO PROFESSIONAL SUPPORT for it at all.

    I bought the TechnoResearch Centurion, (now called Alaris) on this site, from Todd. They have free technical support which I have used very successfully and everything you need in the software to work on the bike, and nothing that can accidentally erase your FI map, or other such stuff.

    Besides, this site, and all the work that has gone into designing, maintaining, organizing, and providing free of charge, HAS TREMENDOUS VALUE to me, and I believe in SUPPORTING THE SITE by buying what I can from the site and I encourage others to do the same. $259 is a paltry sum to pay for a complete professional FI tool in it's own damage preventing storage case. Dirt cheap if you ask me for what you get. Besides, it's very compact, look at the quarter in the photo to get an idea of the size of the tool.

    FYI here is the link to the Alaris - the Stelvio uses a 5AM ECU.

    https://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/tr-alaris/

    GT-TR-Alaris.jpg
     
    john zibell likes this.
  18. canuck1969

    canuck1969 GT Reference GT Contributor

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    Tank can stay on. Take a look at this link. It has all some procedures on doing the sync and valve adjustments. Pretty straight forward on both accounts.

    As for the fuel filter, not a bad idea but I just changed mine over to another stock. First one was still perfectly fine after 50,000km.

    Glad to hear the fix is still working. That certainly was a weird situation. As for the hook up, theoretically you could put it on a switched circuit but you would need another relay to do it since the draw would still need to be a direct hook up to the battery. You would end up with two relays in series as this circuit just feeds another relay. Adding more confusion to the system and more chance of something going wrong later. Just leave it as a direct connection to the battery. If the setup is working, leave it alone. Just clean it up where you can.
     
  19. Rapier

    Rapier Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I'll consider the Alaris. I've got zero intention of screwing with the maps with Guzzidiag, just reset the TPS.

    The bike has 1400 miles on it now. As it loosens up and I get more familiar, the small throttle opening general snatchyness is slightly bothersome. I think that is compounded by what to me is a very weak throttle return spring. I also think a more gentle throttle tip in would help to make small throttle operation better. I don't suppose anyone has ever come up with a way to increase the return spring pressure or an eccentric whateveryoucall it on the throttle body to make the throttle less linear so more movement off close would produce less throttle movement but more near WOT, where it doesn't make any difference. Of course the main culprit is the mapping and leanness at lower RPM. I don't think I am going to spring for the whole PCV AT300 thing just yet which seems like the best route instead of half measures. Someday maybe.

    I might pull the tank just out of curiosity, as well as really do my alt wiring to the relay permanent and bomb proof. I hate black boxes so want to see everything. I haven't had anyone work on my bikes since 1981 and they screwed it up.
     
  20. scottmastrocinque

    scottmastrocinque Scott Mastrocinque GT Famiglia

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