• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Fuel filter in Breva 1100

W

warreny

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Messages
12
Hi,
My 2006 Breva 1100 just turned 31,000 miles. I am the original owner have never changed the fuel filter and am having no problems. Am I living in a fool's paradise, or should I be concerned about the filter? If the tales of original filter failures are correct, have I been lucky, or are the failure rates over-stated?
Thanks
Warren Y
2006 Breva 100
 
You are lucky. The 2006 has the half plastic fuel filter. When you replace it (I suggest as soon as possible) you will find the plastic has expanded quite a bit. I replaced mine at 18K and I'm not sure how much longer it would have lasted. Also when I drained the filter, a great deal of black stuff came out so I'd say at 31K you are overdue for a change anyway.
 
I changed out my fuel filter this last spring at 25,000 kms and the plastic portion had ballooned so much it looked like a mushroom and I was amazed that it had not cracked. The goop that was coming out of it was pitch black. I used a Napa 3032(Purolator equivalent F20011) as the local Guzzi dealer quoted me an arm and a leg
 
In my opinion at 30,000 miles it's due for replacement anyway.

Pick up a replacement at your local auto parts house, like was said above the Napa # is 3032 which means the Wix # is 33032. I used a Wix and it cost around $5.

You'll want the proper clamps most likely, I used a regular set of sidecutters to crimp them, no special tool needed.
 
I concur with the others, replace it, it's likely to burst and will also be very dirty since it's been in for the life of the bike. You'll need to cut the pipe clips off but they can be replaced with stainless fuel injector hose clips, 8-11mm. There is an all metal replacement filter available from UFI, part no 31.760.00

Have fun with the fuel pipe connector under the tank.
 
Hi,
I took the advice and pulled the fuel pump assembly. The filter was the half-plastic type and starting to bulge, but had not failed yet.
Now I hope you can answer some questions for me. I talked to a local dealer before starting to see if they had MG filters (where reasonable I like to use manufacturer parts) and what they would want to do the job. This is where the confusion starts! They want about $55 for a MG filter (I’ve seen them advertised for about $15)! I don’t usually mind supporting local dealers within reason, but this seems extreme. Then he checked my S/N and told me there was no recall on my fuel pump, but if the pump had the number “05107230” on the bottom, it would cost about $600 to replace!!! Well, it has that number and that’s the number listed in the MG parts file. I’m confused.
Next, I was surprised to see a plastic type fuel line instead of submersible hose. The line appears to me to be in perfect condition after 31,000 miles though. The second surprise after seeing the half-plastic filter is that the oval sealing gasket seems to have expanded and I can’t get it to stay in the base. Has it expanded, or is it “over-size” to squish down to give a good seal? I did not see a replacement part list for the gasket so is there a problem, or just a trick to getting it to stay down during reassembly?
Do I have to use otiker clamps, or will regular fuel injection screw clamps suffice? I’ve used the f.i. clamps on a BMW in the tank and outside with no problems
I’d appreciate your input and many thanks for the advice already given.
Warren Y

PS Got a tip to spray a light amount of WD40 in the fuel line release (gray part) before trying to remove it. It was much easier than the previous times I’m taken it apart.
 
warreny said:
Then he checked my S/N and told me there was no recall on my fuel pump, but if the pump had the number “05107230” on the bottom, it would cost about $600 to replace!!! Well, it has that number and that’s the number listed in the MG parts file. I’m confused.
Click to expand...

Jeez, I hate that kind of crap. Sounds like a swindle to me.

warreny said:
Do I have to use otiker clamps
Click to expand...
I'd stay with what was in there. I used the pinch type Dorman clamps. The screw type concern me but that's not based on any real experience.

warreny said:
sealing gasket seems to have expanded and I can’t get it to stay in the base
Click to expand...

Same thing happened to me. I got it in but later had a minor leak. Once removed I found a tear in the gasket but I'm not certain that was caused by an install while it was a bit swollen. Got to keep it dry to make installation easy. Make sure the pump assembly is completely dry before re-installation. MG Cycle now sells the gasket. I've seen the gasket in the parts book - plate 28 item #3.
 
The plastic hose in the Breva is good. It doesn't give any problems. Keep using it and just replace the filter and clamps.
 
I don't think there was any recall on the Breva line as far as fuel systems, that was a Griso thing.
 
The filter that Guzzi try to sell you is actually a Knecht/Mahle KL145, which is available elsewhere at far lower prices. UFI also make the equivalent all metal one and that's even cheaper.
As mentioned above, other makes are also available, and may be easier to source where you are.
 
My griso is coming up to 30.000km and due for a fuel filter change
In oz there is one primary filter manufacturer RYCO (with most of their production made off shore )there seems to be no cross references to this filter or the mahle or the wix or the ufi or ....and so it goes. It only shows an all plastic one Z14. :( :( This is a low pressure carby type I believe. The online Ryco does not generally reference motor cycles
So my question is; can the pump and its collective hose structure accommodate any variation in filter size provided it has the 8.0mm (5/16") ends. I can get a metal filter which is a little larger in diameter (5-8mm) and what appears to be about an <inch over all longer. (140mm) I only have the post foto's to go on.
I have yet to pull the pump assembly as I am waiting on some Colder couplers to arrive and wish to do the red spiggot replacement as it was looking stressed last time it was off.

My gut feeling is that the precise size is not really problem :whistle: :whistle: so long as it is intended for FI pressures.
 
Hi,
As an update, I replaced the filter with an all metal UFI and used metric 8-9.5mm clamps with aircraft stainless safety wire. I wound the safety wire through the screw slot, around the back of the clamp and twisted it with a pliers. I don't see how it can loosen. Hope I'm right!!! Anyway, thanks to all who suggested changing the filter. It was the half plastic type and was bulged, but not leaking. Some blackish material came out when I disconnected it and I hope none went to the engine. I've ridden about 400 miles since with no fuel problems.
I'm wondering now, if the hose needs to be replaced in the future, can I get the plastic flexible hose (Ihaven't found a part number for it yet) or should I plan on submersible fuel hose? Also, is it "normal" to have to replace the base gasket as mine expanded beyond useability. Seems like a gasket designed to retain fuel would by "fuel proof"!
Thanks again.
 
I've done a few filter changes and haven't had to replace a gasket yet. They do expand a little, but I've been able to carefully tuck them in place and re-use them.
 
I understand this filter bulging is mainly due to ethanol in the fuel sold in the states. Is this a problem for countries where not all fuel contains ethanol?

I live in Australia and have always used 95 or 98 octane petrol (without any ethanol) in my bike from new (MG12s, 2007 model, 25000 kms). Am debating whether to change the filter next service (late November) or leaving it another year.

As an earlier contributor stated, at 30 000km it is probably time to change the filter anyway, regardless of the plastic bulging problem.
 
JAS said:
I understand this filter bulging is mainly due to ethanol in the fuel sold in the states. Is this a problem for countries where not all fuel contains ethanol?

I live in Australia and have always used 95 or 98 octane petrol (without any ethanol) in my bike from new (MG12s, 2007 model, 25000 kms). Am debating whether to change the filter next service (late November) or leaving it another year.

As an earlier contributor stated, at 30 000km it is probably time to change the filter anyway, regardless of the plastic bulging problem.
Click to expand...

I've noticed the Guzzi manuals don't state a change interval for the fuel filter. However BMWs use the same filter and recommend replacement at 24,000 miles, or 38,600 Km. Also I don't think the half plastic filter should be used in a gasoline environment anyway and should be replaced with an all metal filter if your fuel contains ethanol or not.
 
As John says, according to the filter manufacturer, the half plastic filter is designed to be used in a diesel environment, and should not be immersed in gasolene/petrol, the ethanol content is a red herring.
 
Am new to the Guzzi world. Have a new-to-me '08 1200 Sport. Plan to replace the fuel and air filters this fall when it gets cold. I can find no gasket for the fuel pump assembly on the bottom of the tank; not even a part number in the official parts book. Would like to have one on hand. Any advice? I'm six hours from a dealer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top