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Fuel gauge

Hi everybody
Just thought i would report back about my fuel gauge problem. The dealer i was using refused to accept there was a problem telling me that all the guzzi's only ever showed two bars? what a crock of s**t, I said to myself life's to short to argue with this muppet so I decided to fix it myself so duly ordered a fuel level sender unit. From another dealer of course, fitted it using the service manual for instrutions on removal and what a suprise it now works fine.
Also while there decided to fix the misting problems of the dash by putting some silica gell crystals through a small hole drilled in the rear of the dash and then resealed with silicone this is now working fine as well.
So as the old saying goes "if you want a job done do it yourself"


Happy motorcycling
 
Hi

Slightly confused about the number of segments on the fuel guage.
There appear to be 3, but the top one is simply a fuel pump 'logo' which is there permanently. The 2 below, as far as my years experience tells me, indicate if the tank is full to half full (both segments lit) or less than half full (one segment lit).

On the 2 occasions I have run the tank dry, I got an actual range of 190 and 195 miles.
The top segment (ie the middle one) dropped out at 100 miles (thereby confirming a theoretical tank range of 200 or so miles) and the warning light comes on routinely at around 120-130 miles.

I reckon my average fuel consumption is around 10 miles per litre, or slightly better, so a run dry range of around 180+ miles from an 18 litre tank, which roughly confirms the above observations of 100 miles for the first segment and therefore 200 miles for the full tank.

Cheers
Martin
 
pbears wrote:
Hi

Slightly confused about the number of segments on the fuel guage.
There appear to be 3, but the top one is simply a fuel pump 'logo' which is there permanently. The 2 below, as far as my years experience tells me, indicate if the tank is full to half full (both segments lit) or less than half full (one segment lit).

On the 2 occasions I have run the tank dry, I got an actual range of 190 and 195 miles.
The top segment (ie the middle one) dropped out at 100 miles (thereby confirming a theoretical tank range of 200 or so miles) and the warning light comes on routinely at around 120-130 miles.

I reckon my average fuel consumption is around 10 miles per litre, or slightly better, so a run dry range of around 180+ miles from an 18 litre tank, which roughly confirms the above observations of 100 miles for the first segment and therefore 200 miles for the full tank.

Cheers
Martin
Click to expand...

When you have run the tank dry how difficult is it to restart the bike once fuel is back in the tank? My Harley Davidson Ultra was terrible to restart once the tank had run dry. It was like the fuel pump would get vapor locked.
 
Martin, The top segment with the fuel pump logo should also go black when full, that's the issue. Mine will go black after 5-30 miles.
 
Thats interesting.
The top segment of the 3 has never gone black in the 6000 miles I've run her!!!
The logic I described seems to make sense with 2 segments indicating 2 halves - 3 would make no sense at all given my crude assessment of 100 miles range per half tank (at best).
I had no problem starting the bike after running dry on 2 occasions (one purposely and one accidentally!)
Cheers
 
I totally agree with the logic but mine goes black at varying time/miles and stays black till ariound 80 miles.

As I've said before the gauge is pretty consistant at the lower end.
 
I had a fuel pump/tank level sensor that I had replaced under warranty a couple years ago, so I did a bit of exploratory surgery on the sensor today to see what's inside. There is a float with two parallel contacts. Two spring contacts on the cap push outward on the float contacts, sliding on a rheostat on one side, sending variable signal to the gauge. There is a large coil spring pressing down on the float, and a very light spring that presses upward from the bottom as the float descends. Things are pretty loose in there, so I doubt that the float hangs up, but rather the upper spring is just a bit too stout, resisting the float making it all the way to the top to give the full reading. I bet clipping a coil or two off would allow it to reach the full mark. Take too much off and it will read over full in the midrange, possibly even lower down where accuracy is more important.

If you take yours apart, you can only reassemble it by holding it upside down, otherwise you can't get the cap contacts to remain inside the float contacts while you compress the spring and snap the cap on. I think I tried to reassemble about 4-5 times before I figured that trick out.

They must have recalibrated the springs or changed the float weight on the new sensors. I'll get one in to check it out.
 
Hello
I agree with john it could be a spring calibration issue but i did try the old sensor out of the tank,and could get it to work when measuring the resistance and imerseing in different depths of water. I think the issue could be with the metering holes there are two green caps at the bottom of the sensor one is blanked off with a cap and the other is covered with a gause filter i checked the values which are listed in the manual the readings were more reliable when the gause filter was removed less so with it fitted. there is also a breather hole at the top of the sensor which may also be part of the problem if it is slightly obsured.
I have attached some pictures for reference

Radders
 
The gauze or screen plug at the bottom keeps the sensor from responding as quickly to tank slosh and tipping. It would probably not keep the sensor from reading full or empty. The cap at top is not a gas tight fit, so I doubt(??) venting at top is an issue either. And, of course, water is more dense than fuel, so a given water height would raise the float more than the same height of gasoline.

It's a mystery...:unsure:
 
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