• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Gas tank removal

Rapier

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
81
Location
49444
Is there a thread here about gas tank removal. Searching gas tank returned every post ever made here I think. I want to locate the fasteners and order of removal in reassembly.

I have to dive in to inspect the alternator connector.
 
Yes, that's pretty good. You don't need to do all that just to remove the tank. If only the tank I disconnect the side panels from the tank but leave them there, just loosen the screws up under the nose. Then you have enough flexibility to slide the tank out if you tale out the dash screws. Have Fun!
 

I wrote that post and it's been cobbled since I gave it to the site.

It goes without saying that you don't want your tank full of gas to do this because it's HEAVY and BULKY to move.

Remove the parts I list here and you will safely and securely be able to remove and replace the tank without causing any damage to other parts of your motorcycle.

To properly remove the tank, do the following:

1. Remove the beauty cover from the lower part of the fuel tank. There are 4 screws which hold this in place. 2 are on each side of the bike. After removing the screws, lift off the beauty cover and set it safely aside.

2. Remove the air deflectors from each side of the bike. There are 2 screws holding this part in place; 1 upper and 1 lower.

3. Remove the side panels. There are 3 connectors you must remove. One in the front of the motorcycle under the lights, 1 at the bottom of the side panel, and 1 at the rear of the side panel.

4. Time to disconnect the hoses from the tank. The hose on the left, is the drain from the filler neck in the fuel bung. It's what carries spilt gas out of the filler neck and sends it out the back of the motorcycle via a drain. It is simply held on by compression and can easily be popped off. The center shows the fuel pump electrical connector. Again, gently, lift up on the locking tab catch and remove this plug. The hose on the right with the clamp, is the principal venting hose. With a pair of dykes, gently squeeze the connector together and it will spring open. You can then remove the hose from the tank.

The connector in the lower center, is the pressurized fuel line that so many people seem to break. DON'T PANIC. If you do exactly as I tell you, it will come off so easily and will not even get close to breaking. There is no need to relieve the pressure in the line. It's not that much. The secret of how to remove this connector is so simple. With your right hand, press the connector gently in towards the tank, while at the same time with your left hand, press the black locking collar also towards the tank. You are pressing them both towards the tank. Now, while holding the black locking collar down, gently reverse your force on the fuel connector and remove it from the tank. If your line is pressurized, it will burp a small quantity of gas, so please, don't be smoking or have an ignition source anywhere nearby and also don't have your face right down there unless you enjoy gas in the eye!

I have made a video of me disconnecting and reconnecting this connector. Please look at it and it will become totally clear how to do it.

Search YOU TUBE for Q7MWF9CvVfg and 9x9Gt30n5_s

5. Take a piece of string and loop together the fuel line, the electrical connector, and the main vent hose you just removed and tie them off towards the back of the motorcycle so that they are completely held out of your way.

6. Unscrew the bolt in the front center of the tank.

7. Now, remove the 2 bolts (1 on each side) at the rear of the fuel tank.

8. The tank is now able to be lifted off of the motorcycle and carefully set aside on a nice soft towel, out of the way.


That's it. Good Luck. There are photos in the Charcoal Canister Removal section showing each of these steps should you need photos.

You will need a new simple hose clamp for the spring clamp you removed unless you have the special tool to re-seat the original clamp.

Scott
 
Last edited:
I wish there was a similar illustrated, step by step procedure for removing the V7III fuel tank...

I suspect it's easier than it seems to be. I'm going to give it a go tomorrow morning, if the garage is warm enough not to freeze my fingers off. :)
 
Back
Top