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Griso 8V crashbar, anyone? The Stucchi one sucks!!!

beetle said:
Do those things actually work? My Griso fell off it's stand when gravel gave way under it. The left valve cover was scratched and gouged, mirror bent and gear lever pin busted. Those things look like they would bend. Would they have saved my valve cover or broken it?
Click to expand...

Depends on how hard it goes down, of course, but my Stucchis seem sturdy. I bought them because of the same kind of drop you had. My Griso fell on its right side at walking speed in gravel. I'm pretty sure the valve cover would be protected if it happened again. I also saw photos in someone else's post of a valve cover that had been holed from sliding down the road, and enough grit and gravel got in that the engine required extensive work.

On the other hand, there are some who point out that the crash bars cost more than the valve covers and say the possibility of frame damage makes them a potentially losing proposition.

As with so many other topics on this forum, asking a simple question gets complicated answers and no shortage of conflicting opinions.
 
Update to the new designed Stucchi Griso 8V Crash Bars that I installed last November.

I've had them installed for 10 months, 20k miles, and two valves checks.

Within the first couple thousand miles one of the triangular screens had fallen off and one of the bars had loosened at the front.
Fortunately the triangular screen had fallen off in the driveway with it's screw still attached.
So I reinstalled it; and it has stayed in place ever since. (18k miles ?)
And the loose bar I fixed by buying the proper tool; a long, ball ended, hex bit socket set.
I was then able to properly re-torque the mounting bolts for each bar.
They've also stayed in place the past 18k miles.

During valve checks; the valve covers can be removed without having to remove or loosen the bars.
However it is somewhat tricky to maneuver valve covers out from behind the bars. Especially the left side.
But it can be done.

So it appears these new design bars are much improved over the original design.
If they survive until next Spring without any issues; then I'll convinced they will last the life of my Griso. (10yrs, 300k miles ?)

--ET
 
Hey I unfortunately tested these bars at a track day on Tuesday! They worked great at protecting the engine. Impact at 30mph or so in the gravel down on right side. Wind screen was ripped half but bars did not bend. With the money! I will post some pics once I get out of the hospital tomorrow.
 
bigdog1001 said:
Hey I unfortunately tested these bars at a track day on Tuesday! They worked great at protecting the engine. Impact at 30mph or so in the gravel down on right side. Wind screen was ripped half but bars did not bend. With the money! I will post some pics once I get out of the hospital tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Doh, hope you and the bike heal fast!
I now have my GTM version on the Store; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/gtm-griso-crash-bars
 
Todd that Tonys Track Day attendees loved the bike and yes I was using the new version from Stuchhi but I agree with switch to Hepco and Becker.......that is the impact zone on a lay down.

Bike will be fine just cosmetic stuff. I do recommend that everybody consider adding bars!
 
New owner here, gingerly getting to know this beast. I bought these crash bars but when I looked at where they are supposed to
be bolted up I decided I needed some wisdom. So, I see that the front bolts and the long rear bolt appear to hold up the engine.
I expect that the best thing to do is support the engine, I have a hydraulic lift for that.
Also, the rear brake reservoir needs to be removed and the starter cover, all doable.
What I need to know is, will I have a difficult time getting these bolts back in? Is the engine going to move on me?
Obviously, some of you have done this, so tell me how it went. Easy or nightmare?

Thanks

Don't want to break anything while we get to know each other...
 
triman023 said:
New owner here, gingerly getting to know this beast. I bought these crash bars but when I looked at where they are supposed to
be bolted up I decided I needed some wisdom. So, I see that the front bolts and the long rear bolt appear to hold up the engine.
I expect that the best thing to do is support the engine, I have a hydraulic lift for that.
Also, the rear brake reservoir needs to be removed and the starter cover, all doable.
What I need to know is, will I have a difficult time getting these bolts back in? Is the engine going to move on me?
Obviously, some of you have done this, so tell me how it went. Easy or nightmare?

Thanks

Don't want to break anything while we get to know each other...
Click to expand...

If I recall correctly.

The Stucchi instructions (at least first generation) indicated replacing the transmission (long bolt) by itself first.
And then replacing each of the front bolts one at a time.

I made a point to keep a jack supporting the motor throughout the entire process of installing the bars.
And even using a jack; the front bolts did not line up perfectly.
Possibly because the jack didn't keep pressure and slowly dropped a little bit.
Just had to pump the jack to get the front bolts to align better.

Removing the rear brake reservoir was a little time consuming.
But only because with my wrenches I was loosening and tightening it's hard-to-reach bolt/nut 1/4 turn at a time.

I encountered a little bit of an annoyance with the starter cover.
One of it's screws that secures into a stud bolt behind the cover was so tight.
That loosening the screw actually resulted in loosening the stud bolt.
And reinstalling that stud bolt took a little time trying to get it to line up without dropping it's related washer.

Even with these little annoyances. I think it took me less than 1/2 hour.
 
Thanks Et
The Current instructions indicate nothing more than what the bars look like. I can proceed with more confidence now.
 
Removing the rear brake reservoir was a little time consuming.
But only because with my wrenches I was loosening and tightening it's hard-to-reach bolt/nut 1/4 turn at a time.

What wrench did you use for the brake reservoir bolt. Is it metric?
 
triman023 said:
Removing the rear brake reservoir was a little time consuming.
But only because with my wrenches I was loosening and tightening it's hard-to-reach bolt/nut 1/4 turn at a time.

What wrench did you use for the brake reservoir bolt. Is it metric?
Click to expand...

Yes it is metric.
I remember having to remove the rear brake reservoir from it's plastic holder/clamp.
It is only a Phillips screw holding the reservoir in the clamp.

And then to remove the holder/clamp. I had to bend it out of the way so I could use a small box end wrench on it's bolt that held it on the frame.
I don't recall the exact size of the bolt. But I know it was less than 10mm. Perhaps a 7mm or 8mm ?

Hope that helps.

--ET
 
I used an 8mm wrench for the Brake reservoir bolt, had to shorten my wrench to get it in there. Everything mounted up just fine, unfortunately I found that the left bar is too close to the cylinder (1/8th inch) so its coming off to be returned. The bend is not quite right. I do like the way they look and they are very robust. I expect them to protect the bike in a tip over, a serious crash will require my insurance co. to fix it, and me...
 
ett said:
Will you be asking for replacements or a refund ?
Click to expand...
MG sent me a replacement bar and it is a bit better. I wrote Stucci and got this reply:

Dear customer

this misalignment is normal to ensure the maximum space for the rider's legs

the crashbar have just been tested for normal crash with very good result .Only Be sure to have place the rubber seals in the correct way.

We are available for any support

Best regards

So. I give up, I will make sure I have a "normal" crash.
 
Bumping an old thread. Why there are so few options and so expensive. $260 for H&B for a set of tiny bars is too much
 
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