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Griso - Another oil warning light issue

marcsiry

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
59
Location
South Orange, NJ
I've got a slightly different problem. After having my bike (Griso 8V) for about a year, I started getting a thing where after 2+ hours of hard riding, corresponding with the engine getting warmer, I get flashes of the red light at low RPM. At first it only started in hot, stop-and-go traffic, but now I'm seeing it after two hours of freeway cruising mixed with higher speed surface roads.

I can typically dismiss the red light by blipping the throttle, but I am concerned that I am seeing the light at all. Oil levels have been checked and are always OK, and I've even replaced the oil very prematurely (1500 km) with the proper 10w-60 as a precaution, with no effect.

Here are a couple of questions:

1. Could this be seen as a symptom of some sort of other damage in the engine that I could be concerned about? When I change the oil there is no swarf in the waste oil or on the magnetic plug, and the engine runs normally otherwise.

2. Is there some sort of diagnostic a shop could do for a reasonable amount of effort to detect any creeping damage, like bearings etc., so that i could take some sort of preventative measures or maintenance before any damage gets worse?

Thanks-
 

GTM®

Administrator
Staff member
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Messages
12,962
Location
Malibu
Marc, just catching this. It would be super rare for this to happen, but it could be a failing oil pump. It's happened on the older Norges, but none of the newer 8V's that i've heard about. I would strongly suggest having the oil pressure checked by gauge from a reputable shop... that would be for starters, as the rest would just be a tear down to inspect.
Keep us posted.
 

kiwi dave

GT Reference
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
2,226
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
After the pressure is found to be OK by the gauge, it might be worth replacing the pressure sensor. They are known to cause this sort of alarm.
 
P

PP-1753

Guest
+1 on the pressure sensor, or even the connection on top of it - mine fails from time to time even though I made sure there was good contact last time I was in that deep. When it happens now, I wait till the engine is cool and "wiggle" the lead on top of the sensor. Problem goes away after the wiggling.
 

kiwi dave

GT Reference
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
2,226
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
I've also had issues when they're hot not closing the contacts and producing the dreaded red triangle because the ECU thinks there's no sensor present. Or it closes for a moment and then opens, telling the ECU that the oil pressure has failed.

I got very good at changing them on my Breva 1100 until I finally installed the correct part number version. Why the others (for an earlier Guzzi) would only work for a while, I have no idea.
 

GTM®

Administrator
Staff member
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Messages
12,962
Location
Malibu
Agreed on all... I'm a little worried for him that it only is happening at low RPM/idle.
 

mojohand

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
233
Location
Richmond, VA
I had two fail on my Norge, spewing oil everywhere. Have folks had the same issue on the Griso? And what's the correct part number? Too, I seem to recall a better sensor from BMW that fits the Griso & Norge 8Vs...anyone have any idea whether I've heard correctly?
 

Trout

GT Reference
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
1,209
Location
Gainesville
If really concerned you can have an oil analysis done. NAPA auto parts used to do this for the 18 wheeler guys. If there is bearing, piston ring or contaminits present it will show on the report.
 

marcsiry

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
59
Location
South Orange, NJ
Trout, I will likely send off my next oil change to check for contaminants- thanks. I look very closely when I change my oil and there is zero swarf in the oil pan or on the magnetic oil plug, but that doesn't mean there isn't something imperceptible in the oil.

Given the lack of easy-access shops near me, I bought an oil pressure gauge and intend to do the reading myself- I'm having a little trouble finding what the normal oil pressure reading should be. Anyone here know the answer or where I could find it?
 

Brian UK

GT Reference
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
2,095
Location
Addlestone, Surrey, UK
You should be getting 50 or 60 psi at running speed. The switches usually operate at around 8 psi. It should never go down to this pressure even when hot.
 

contractor20

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
305
Location
Bairnsdale Victoria. OZ (west of NZ)
There is a switch for VW Caravelle and/or other VW group vehicles that switch above 10psi. It uses the correct thread but a different elect connection. I use this on the T3 and if the Griso ever plays up I'll use it for that also.
 

ghezzi

High Miler
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Messages
836
Location
Brisbane
Hey guys, qwitchyabitchin!
Nearly every damn oil pressure switch on the planet since Adam was a boy has operated at 7-10psi. Coz at idle you have the least amount of pressure, and if the oil is really hot you'll have less again, meaning you will need a high idle, thick oil and a fucking good pump if you want 60psi below 1,500rpm.

My oil light stayed on after a short stop during a long ride. I turned it off, checked the oil level, started, still on, turned it off. Started again and as there were no ominous sound emanating from the engine, reved it up, all good. Wiggled the wire and the light flickered.
OK, ignore it and ride and fix the connection when I get home.

Point being, if your oil light comes on at 4,000rpm because you really do have a max of 7psi, your crank will be fucked and great knocking sounds will be emanating from within before you can shut it down. Anyway, the loss of power as your crank seizes will wake you up and the kill switch wont be needed. I know this by experience.

So if it happens again ............................................. just keep riding.
 

contractor20

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
305
Location
Bairnsdale Victoria. OZ (west of NZ)
Would it be this switch?
The pressure is about right but the pic looks like a npt thread (pics are notoriously unreliable)
I think I used a Echlin cattle dog at my local auto supply house which gave thread /pressure/connecter data and remembered that there were hardly any with the correct thread size, mine uses 12mmx1.5mm from memory.
I may have used a lower press unit due to availability
I have mine siamized to a gauge and wanted to use it as a alert light
 
Last edited:

marcsiry

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
59
Location
South Orange, NJ
Just looked up the bike schematic to see how to do the oil pressure test and I see the oil pressure switch is between the "V," under the generator, which means tank removal if I want to access it. Pain in the butt.

Perusing some online videos, it appears others have used the oil sump drain to attach a pressure gauge on non-Guzzi bikes. Assuming I have a properly threaded adapter, is that something that would give me an accurate read?

BTW, while poking around my bike I pulled one of the head covers- absolutely no mayonnaise under there, it was clean as a whistle. I change my oil frequently with the quality stuff, and I also thrash the hell out of the bike when I ride it- a minimum of 1 hour at a spell, reaching operating temps and hitting the upper levels of the RPM range. Seems like it's protected me from the condensation issues, even with the cooler temps we've been having this fall into winter.
 

john zibell

Moderator
Staff member
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
8,770
Location
Huntsville, AL
Perusing some online videos, it appears others have used the oil sump drain to attach a pressure gauge on non-Guzzi bikes. Assuming I have a properly threaded adapter, is that something that would give me an accurate read?

There is no oil pressure at the sump. Can't work.
 

marcsiry

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
59
Location
South Orange, NJ
Bummer, there goes the "easy way out." Thanks for the answer- looking again at the online guides they actually say "oil channel" vs. the sump.
 
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