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GTM ECU V7 & V9 Flash Tool

In the first few miles it felt smoother overall and as I got out of town and on the mountain road the improvement became more evident. Overall better throttle response without any trace of hesitation, totally predictable, no flat spots. On a couple of occasions I needed to pass slower traffic and the engine felt noticeably more willing to rev pulling up to 90 on a long uphill passing opportunity. Frankly I was surprised at how effortlessly it attained that speed.

Starting cold or hot is instant and the idle which felt kind of lumpy is now smooth with no hunting up and down.

If you're a rider who is critical of throttle response and appreciates a modern engine that runs "properly" this gizmo is the real goods and the diagnostic ability is a plus.

Thanks to Todd and GTM for helping to make a worthwhile improvement so easy to do.

Have you changed anything on the bike exhaust etc ...
It does indeed seem much happier to rev !
 
The bike is stock with respect to exhaust and intake. Evap is removed and S.A.S. block off installed.

I doubt I'll change the exhaust unless I find something I like that isn't too loud. I don't like loud bikes.
 
So that confirms that the tune itself makes a big difference in throttle response, acceleration, etc...
You don’t need to have made any significant changes to the bike to get improvements !
 
I wouldn't say the bike accelerates faster to an appreciable degree, just smoother and more willing. For my riding it's a worthwhile improvement.
 
Yet I would say that any changes I have made (mistral exhaust, air filter, evap removal) the motorcycle has slowly updated its behavior in the closed loop part of the map. I understand that I should put a new mapping (and maybe I will) yet in my opinion a little self-updating, at least in the initial part of the butterfly opening and in the minimum
 
Yet I would say that any changes I have made (mistral exhaust, air filter, evap removal) the motorcycle has slowly updated its behavior in the closed loop part of the map. I understand that I should put a new mapping (and maybe I will) yet in my opinion a little self-updating, at least in the initial part of the butterfly opening and in the minimum
Yes V7 III (& V7 850) have an ECU with Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor and self learning which self-adapts up to a 40 ° opening.
You can read it in the "ECU_MIU-G3_Training" PDF.

But a new map allows an appreciable richer engine operation.
 
You are mistaken. It cannot compensate for system changes or learn anything about fueling and exhaust modifications.

However, it can, when the engine is cold and the O2 sensor has not reached operational temperature, apply a global table value increase in to the injector pulse width in terms of percentage like 1.1 (10%), 1.2 (20%) up to its stipulated limit of +\- 25%, and a tabled timing advance factor as well.

It is not intelligent nor able to deviate dynamically but rather uses established table values picked by existing measured conditions, to briefly apply these tabled changes.

Once the O2 sensor is operational, the MAP is then ignored completely and there is no more “correction” factor being applied.

3. Operating logic

Injection times and ignition advance

The MIU ECU uses a conventional Alpha-n strategy to manage the engine. This means that injection times and ignition advance values are defined on the basis of the two primary parameters: throttle aperture and engine speed.

A correction factor is applied to these values (injection time and ignition advance), which is calculated on the basis of the secondary parameters atmospheric pressure, ambient temperature, engine temperature and effective absolute intake manifold pressure.

3. Operating logic

New self-adaptive engine management (air/fuel ratio) strategy

The G3 unit used with this engine features a self-adaptive engine management function.

This allows the ECU to adapt to the effective needs of the engine, and even compensate for engine deteriorating factors such as, for instance, fouling of the air filter or throttle body.

To do this, the ECU uses feedback from the oxygen sensors or the MAP sensor in relation to the effective operating conditions. In the latter instance, the effective absolute manifold pressure is used to calculate the effective mass of air aspirated into the cylinder.

The correction factor is calculated and applied by compiling and continuously updating two 10x10 self- adaptive matrices, with one for cold engine conditions and the other for hot engine conditions.


At each reference point (rpm – throttle aperture), the injection time is increased or reduced by a percentage equal to the value of the corresponding correction parameter.


3. Operating logic Notes:

1. Oxygen sensor-based correction has priority over MAP sensor-based correction.

2. The correction factor is updated when operating conditions are stable - in other words, when neither the throttle aperture nor the engine speed vary excessively rapidly.

3. If the correction factor requested exceeds ±25%, the EFI warning lamp on the instrument panel is activated, the self-adaptive matrices are reset to zero and the error is memorised in the ECU.

4. Intake manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP)

The MAP sensor is also used to correct the fuel/air ratio in conditions when the oxygen sensors do not provide a signal (e.g. when the engine is cold).

The ECU compares the predicted pressure (vacuum) value stored in its memory against the pressure effectively read by the MAP sensor, and compensates the injection time accordingly.

• More vacuum = less aspirated air, necessitating a reduction in injection time • Less vacuum = more aspirated air, necessitating an increase in injection time

Notes:

1. At key-on, the stepper motor is completely open to facilitate starting.

2. At each stepper motor step, the injection time is also altered to maintain a constant air/fuel ratio.

3. Only oxygen sensor-based or MAP sensor-based correction influences injection time independently of stepper motor aperture.
 
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The bike should snap to life and instantly take throttle and idle well, stone cold.
Different in the sense of ? We build our maps around the Euro spec of .006/.008" - so yes in a way it does. If your bike doesn't snap to life, check/set them and/or reset the TPS again (frequently). If you still have problems, read the error codes, and send the last *.usr map back to us for correction.
Euro spec valve clearance made a huge difference.

Do you recommend sticking with the OE spark plugs or recommend another brand? Any change in gapping?
 
To preface so you know what Im working with.
2020 V7 racer, the evap can, tip valve delete, and SAS delete

Installed the tune last month, rode it around the neighborhood ,everything seemed okay. Parked the bike due to not having any rear lights.
A few weeks later cleaning garage, park bike in the grass, well big gust of wind came through and the ground wasnt hard enough, bike tipped over, picked it up, started it, pulled it in garage and parked it on the tender.

Fast forward,tail light Light comes in, I install new tail light, go to start bike. Bike hesitates and has a rough start and a rough low 1k rpm idle. Bike idles down and dies. Go to restart the bike, cranks with no start up. turn the key on and off a few time to try and prime the pump. Bike wont start.

Only other variable that I can think of is the 70 degrees it has been when it last started vs the current 39 degrees.

Should I have the tuned tune tweaked? Or am I missing something.
 
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Should I have the tuned tune tweaked? Or am I missing something.
This has ZERO to do with the "tune." When a bike ends up on it's side, a handful of things can happen. As a guess, something could be broken related to possibly a safety switch. See if the bike has spark. These types of things are nearly IMPOSSIBLE to diagnose here via the internet, but we can try as long as you do the work.
 
This has ZERO to do with the "tune." When a bike ends up on it's side, a handful of things can happen. As a guess, something could be broken related to possibly a safety switch. See if the bike has spark. These types of things are nearly IMPOSSIBLE to diagnose here via the internet, but we can try as long as you do the work.
I was more concerned about me trying to diagnose a possibly known issue. Once you said it had nothing to do with the tune I just started with the ABCs of crank but no start. Had it going in 5 minutes. I really love the simplicity of the Guzzi. that would have been at least and hour on my Kawasaki.
 
I was more concerned about me trying to diagnose a possibly known issue. Once you said it had nothing to do with the tune I just started with the ABCs of crank but no start. Had it going in 5 minutes. I really love the simplicity of the Guzzi. that would have been at least and hour on my Kawasaki.
So what was it? In gear?
 
So what was it? In gear?
Pulled the plugs, Had spark,dipped long q tip just inside the spark plug chamber, seemed like it had more fuel on it than it should. placed a new qtip inside and cranked it, cleaned the plugs. Put the plugs back in and it cranked right up.
 
Pulled the plugs, Had spark,dipped long q tip just inside the spark plug chamber, seemed like it had more fuel on it than it should. placed a new qtip inside and cranked it, cleaned the plugs. Put the plugs back in and it cranked right up.
OK, likely the tip-over killed the spark as it's designed to do. A key on/off cycle as (I believe is or should be) stated in the Owner's Manual is required.
 
hi Todd, hope you and the crew are well!

I had the final drive gasket replaced at the dealer [Pro Italia, Glendale] on my 2020 v7 iii S - after which they rerouted one of the lines incorrectly causing the abs and shift sensor to trip [im sure im scrambling some of this info] which they straightened out -
I currently have the wrench popping up on my gauge but the Flash Tool when plugged into the bike doesn't allow me to view or retrieve error codes so I can clear it -

what is my next course of action?
please advise - thank you!

Jon -
 
hi Todd, hope you and the crew are well!

I had the final drive gasket replaced at the dealer [Pro Italia, Glendale] on my 2020 v7 iii S - after which they rerouted one of the lines incorrectly causing the abs and shift sensor to trip [im sure im scrambling some of this info] which they straightened out -
I currently have the wrench popping up on my gauge but the Flash Tool when plugged into the bike doesn't allow me to view or retrieve error codes so I can clear it -

what is my next course of action?
please advise - thank you!

Jon -
I believe that on the V7 III, Todd's amazing flash tool cannot clear the wrench icon. Only the service dealers can do this. Pretty sure if your read this thread you will see that noted.

Quoting from an earlier post by Todd.
"Per above (for now), no maintenance light reset yet... however, yes, it is a full diagnostic tool as noted on the purchase page, including the diagnostic code reset."
 
hi Todd, hope you and the crew are well!

I had the final drive gasket replaced at the dealer [Pro Italia, Glendale] on my 2020 v7 iii S - after which they rerouted one of the lines incorrectly causing the abs and shift sensor to trip [im sure im scrambling some of this info] which they straightened out -
I currently have the wrench popping up on my gauge but the Flash Tool when plugged into the bike doesn't allow me to view or retrieve error codes so I can clear it -

what is my next course of action?
please advise - thank you!

Jon -

Mayakovski is correct, you need the dealer's software tool to clear the wrench icon. What is the mileage on your V7 III S? If you are the first owner, is this the first time you saw the wrench icon?

Off topic: Was the final drive leaking thus for the Pro Italia to replace the final drive gasket?
 
As a footnote, when I talked to the mechanic at the once MG dealer in town, he said the tool connects to MG headquarters over the internet when they connected to the bike to do reset.

i can only guess that HQ might keep some record of the bikes service history ?
 
Mayakovski is correct, you need the dealer's software tool to clear the wrench icon. What is the mileage on your V7 III S? If you are the first owner, is this the first time you saw the wrench icon?

Off topic: Was the final drive leaking thus for the Pro Italia to replace the final drive gasket?
7500 miles currently - i am the only owner, I do recall seeing the wrench icon before, although I don't remember what was the cause.. perhaps low rear air pressure..?
you are correct, the final drive was leaking for some time now, and just finally had the seal replaced -
 
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