• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Hand Grip Replacement

The_Happy_Drunk

The_Happy_Drunk

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
29
Hello

Coming from a bike that had less vibrations and larger/softer hand grips, I notice the thinner ones on the Breva 750 a fair bit. Before I go on some longer trips, I have been thinking of replacing the grips with some after market gel type grips.

Can anyone recommend manufactures or models to replace the originals with (I say original, but I have no idea if they are actually original or after market themselves).Having never replaced any hand grips before, is there any any handy hints and tips that I should know of?

Cheers
Leon
 
To remove your old grips, remove bar end weights. Slide a thin flate bladed screw driver up between the original grip and the handle bar. Once the blade is all the way ,or near to the far end of the grip, useing the red nozzle attachment on a can of WD40. Slide the red nozzle along the side of the screw driver shaft and spray the grip and bar as the nozzle is removed. Work the screw driver blade around the handle bar doing the same thing with the WD40. Use the same procedure on the throttle slide and the grips will come off very easily. Besure to wipe off all traces of WR40 prior to installing the new grips as they will be glued in place. Good luck.
 
I put progrip 699 on my breva. I took off the barend weights then cut the old ones off by slicing lengthwise along the grip, cleaned the handle tubes, sprayed some hairspray in the grips and slid them on. The hair spray sets tacky so the grips stay still. I guess spray adhesive would have been better but I have not had any problems with the grips moving.
 
There are no vibrations in a Breva handlebar!
And if, I think you should try a complete service; TPS-reset, throttle balancing etc. Should normally do it.

For removing the grips you can also try compressed air, if you got access to it; pry the blower nozzle under the grip and fire.
Usually works very well.

(Personally I hate soft grips. I'll loose the feed-back from the wheels)
 
Agree with the last post. My V7C has no real handlebar vibrations. I didn't even bother with bar end weights when I changed the bars.
 
Well the Breva has more vibrations than my last bike, not excessive but still has more vibrations. And as mentioned in my original post the previous bike also had larger diameter hand grips in which I have grown accustomed to. On short rides it feels ok but I do notice the difference and think my hands would become more fatigued during longer trips.

All academic at the moment as I've been told I'm not allowed to ride or drive due to darn medications.

Cheers
Leon.
 
I concur with Holt and Icenian; vibrations aren't normally a problem on the 750 engine. Try changing the riding position of the handlebars. On a Muz Sport Cup I had, I thought it had too much vibration. The real problem was the "racing crouch" the bike put me in, made me overly sensitive.

Joe
 
WWWWWWHHHHAAAATTTTT VVVIIIBBBRRAATTIIIOOONNN, Oh sorry I just came back from a ride on my 2003 100th Anniversary 883 Hugger Sportster (Still for sale by the way, and you ask, "why are you selling" it :eek: :shock: :? :D )

Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top