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How does this V7 ll Racer sound to you?

RandomGRK

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
72
Location
Philadelphia, PA
Hey all
Edit* I just made the mistake of listening to this through my phone and it's horrible speakers. Use earphones, it's way more accurate.

I filmed this to try capture the sound of my V7. Of course, the sound is meh because I'm a) using a phone and b) using my backup phone.

I used to own a 2013 V7 R and the ticking was not as prominent as it was on this. Most V7s, including my older one had a more a whining sound as opposed to this. If you listen right to the end, you will hear what I am talking about. I've listened to every clip out there and it sounds like my ticking is more prominent. It seems like its mainly from the left side.

I purchased her used with 2k miles on the clock and crappy emgo pipes installed. The previous owner had already purchased Todd's fuel map and tool and flashed the bike. I hated the Emgos so I purchased a pair of Guzzitech slip ons (which I love!)

The whining (listen from about 1:46)


The ticking (my bike)


I may be over analyzing but only because my previous one didn't tick as much and it kind of irritates me. The ticking is actually louder in person than in the video and I personally prefer the whine.
 
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Have you adjusted the valves correctly? Also check the rockers for side to side movement on the shaft. There should be some movement, but it shouldn't be extreme.
 
I can't really tell anything from the vid But is it coming from one side or both sides?
It could be just a loose header.
 
I can't really tell anything from the vid But is it coming from one side or both sides?
It could be just a loose header.

A few weeks ago I discovered that indeed the left header was very loose and missing a bolt. I tightened it and it is somewhat better. I noted in the first post that using headphones would more accurately enhance the sound so if you could have a listen I'd appreciate it.
 
I haven't touched anything yet as it only has 2600 miles on it.


Valve adjustment should be checked at the PDI done by the dealer. It doesn't mean it was done. Also those are good comments on the header pipe being loose. It is common for that to occur on these bikes and they should be checked regularly.
 
Ok so I use my head phones and to me it's coming from left side then I went back and read your post and you said left header was loose so I would pull the header pipe off and check the gasket.
If it all looks good put the header back on but make sure you tighten the bolts evenly so you get a good seal.
Also look at the gasket to see if there is any evidence of exhaust gas getting past it.
 
Ok so I use my head phones and to me it's coming from left side then I went back and read your post and you said left header was loose so I would pull the header pipe off and check the gasket.
If it all looks good put the header back on but make sure you tighten the bolts evenly so you get a good seal.
Also look at the gasket to see if there is any evidence of exhaust gas getting past it.

OK thanks Jeff, I'll have a look.
 
It's definitely a leak at the header pipe. In the pic you can see discolouration. Just waiting on some spares to pull it off and inspect.

Any way I can clean that up?
 

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The clearance on your valves is open slightly. A opening of just thousands of an inch can result in significantly louder ticking. When you adjust the valves, it will quiet down.

BTW

I'm just curious as to why people are wrapping their header pipes more and more. The only advantage in this application is to reduce heat on the rider, however, the resultant increase in exhaust temperature significantly leans out the fuel/air mixture and can damage the cylinder head. Also, it will dramatically shorten the life of the single walled exhaust header and pipe.
 
The clearance on your valves is open slightly. A opening of just thousands of an ince can result in significantly louder ticking. When you adjust the valves, it will quiet down.

BTW

I'm just curious as to why people are wrapping their header pipes more and more. The only advantage in this application is to reduce heat on the rider, however, the resultant increase in exhaust temperature significantly leans out the fuel/air mixture and can damage the cylinder head. Also, it will dramatically shorten the life of the single walled exhaust header and pipe.

I purchased her with 2200 miles on the clock. Previous owner had melted quite a bit of plastic on the pipe and he opted to cover the mess with wrap. Any idea what product could help clean up old melted plastic? I would prefer it with no wrap for sure. On my previous bike, a plastic bag wrapped around the pipes and I immediately used fine steel wool to remove it. The polished look was gone, but so was the plastic...well, part of it.

If I could find new headers without paying too much I'd add those but I saw Mistral headers cost $400.
 
I've been successful removing melted plastic using a single edge razor blade. Scrapers are made to hold this type of blade to make it easier. Unfortunately, the wrap may have spoiled the cosmetic aspect of the pipes by now. I hope you get lucky.
 
Easy-off oven cleaner will get the job done.

Do like John suggests, and carefully razor blade off as much as you can, keeping the blade at as small of an angle to the pipe as possible. Use a blade/scaper holder, not your fingers!

Next...

Let the pipe heat up by idling the engine briefly.

Shut the engine off and spray up-close, the EZ-off on the stain.. I drape some towels or and old bedsheet over the nearby parts of the motorcycle I don't want getting oversprayed, and also use a small piece or cardboard held behind the area I am spraying, to prevent overspray.

Wait a minute or so. It should wipe right off with a water damp cloth.

Warning!!!

This stuff is very caustic. It's sodium hydroxide (lye). Make sure you cover any painted surfaces or coated metal.

Also, do not try this in windy weather, do not breath in the fumes, especially from the hot pipes, and protect your eyes. It will work, trust me.

I always wash the entire motorcycle afterwards. Lots of water will neutralize the lye.

Polish the pipes with soft rag/microfiber/tee-shirt and a good metal polish paste. Done!
 
Easy-off oven cleaner will get the job done.

Do like John suggests, and carefully razor blade off as much as you can, keeping the blade at as small of an angle to the pipe as possible. Use a blade/scaper holder, not your fingers!

Next...

Let the pipe heat up by idling the engine briefly.

Shut the engine off and spray up-close, the EZ-off on the stain.. I drape some towels or and old bedsheet over the nearby parts of the motorcycle I don't want getting oversprayed, and also use a small piece or cardboard held behind the area I am spraying, to prevent overspray.

Wait a minute or so. It should wipe right off with a water damp cloth.

Warning!!!

This stuff is very caustic. It's sodium hydroxide (lye). Make sure you cover any painted surfaces or coated metal.

Also, do not try this in windy weather, do not breath in the fumes, especially from the hot pipes, and protect your eyes. It will work, trust me.

I always wash the entire motorcycle afterwards. Lots of water will neutralize the lye.

Polish the pipes with soft rag/microfiber/tee-shirt and a good metal polish paste. Done!

Thanks for the tips. I'll look at trying this soon
 
I found this video. This guy doesn't mask of or prevent overspray, which I recommend that you do, but he does use double-ought "00" steel wool, which I have used as well triple-ought "000" steel wool.

The steel wool will remove any melted debris when used in combination with the easy off. Again, wash afterwards with lots of water to rinse off all of the lye.

 
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