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How I learnt to ride the Griso

Balancing the front and rear sag maintains the steering geometry as intended. Non balanced sag can be used to alter the running geometry of the bike. But unless you know what you are doing and consider all the ramifications of changing this then it is a good idea in my opinion to stick with balanced sag front to rear. At least start that way and see how the bike handles.
 
Well, I tried GuzziJon's settings (apart from the Sag. A set of destructions on setting it said you need 2 helpers. I'm a Guzzi rider, I dont have that many friends ;) ) and went for a test ride. I was so sceptical that I nearly called my friend to make sure he was up and with his phone on in case I ended up in a field, particularly on the amount of rear rebound adjustment. And I came to the conclusion that the stock suspension settings are totally nuts!

I still like my engine braking but even below the EB kick in, I could drive into corners 10mph faster than I could before, AND didnt have to clench my sphincter on turn-in. Yes, the godawful squared-off Metzelers still need changing but even on those, I was just a hundred times more confident than I was before.

For anyone still riding a G11 on the stock settings... STOP. Try these adjustments. They might not be right for you straight off the bat, but they will make a world of difference.
 
The saga continues...

The suspension changes helped a LOT, and I just fitted a set of Pirelli Angels. Went out on a break-in ride today and I love them.

However... they seem to have increased the lack of feeling of security from the back end. I can corner just fine but the rear just doesnt feel like it's with me.

I got back to be greeted with a Parcel Farce import charge letter for the stepper motor bypass kit. Happy days!
 
I can handle a few quid for a £140 package... I just hope my airsoft replica Browning Automatic Rifle doesnt get hit! That'll cost a mint :(
 
My real name is Guzzi Clyde Barrow Hero :D

Nah, I play airsoft, like paintball with BB guns. Thats why I look like a goof in my avatar with an M1 Garand replica :D

Back on topic - 20 days off work now (holiday). I'll get that stepper motor bypass installed tomorrow and give her a whirl!
 
Hi GH
Glad to see you have sorted the suspension,as I said before try playing with the suspension settings.
My usual style was to adjust 1 only on a ride. Find a set of corners that make the suspension feel vague or whatever you don't like then do a few runs.
Don't forget the note book, as in put it in your pocket or bag as losing it tends to piss you :angry: off a bit with all the settings you have all ready tried. :lol:
 
The suss now feels pretty good thought I'm no Barry Sheen so I'm sure I can make it better.

I'll try it with the stepper motor off and see how I feel :)
 
Sorry if this seems to be becoming a blog :D

One bug-stomping mission later...

1. The bike will not idle cold with the valve closed. No problem, you just open it.

2. The bike will not idle warm with the valve open. Not a problem, you just close it.

3. Down in the dark and nasty regions, where nobody goes (below 4000rpm), the bike feels like it has a teeny bit more engine braking. It is barely noticeable. You also get a more vocal boom when letting off the power during town bimbling.

4. The stepper bypass seems to have widened the engine braking range down to about 5000rpm. Not a lot, but it's enough to really improve my trust in the bike.

5. Even with the stepper isolated, the engine braking is subtle on the Griso 1100. This is not the massive power-off decelleration I get from the California. Oddly, at 5000+rpm, it makes no difference whether the valve is open or closed, the improved feel is still there. I'm wondering if its a bit of a psychological effect...

6. The road I aimed for was the bumpy-as-the-devil's-warts B5027. Over 10.4 miles, I averaged 60mph. That's good enough for me.

7. Valve open or closed, the sweetest spot on this bike is between 6-8000rpm. I would say that for me, personally, I can ride this bike faster on A/B roads than I could have done on the FZR1000. Riding position plays a big part in this.

8. Valve open or closed, I now feel comfortable riding smoothly between 4-6000rpm. This possibly has more to do with the suspension settings than anything the stepper bypass gives me.

9. On high-rev thrapping (6k+rpm) it seems to have improved fuel efficiency. At least thats what the computer tells me...

Right now, I'm undecided on whether or not the stepper bypass has really done what *I* wanted it to do. For the price however, I am not in the least bit sorry that I bought and tried it. And it does look pukka sitting there on my clutch clamp :D
 
GuzziHero said:
Sorry if this seems to be becoming a blog :D

1. The bike will not idle cold with the valve closed. No problem, you just open it.

2. The bike will not idle warm with the valve open. Not a problem, you just close it.

Right now, I'm undecided on whether or not the stepper bypass has really done what *I* wanted it to do.
Click to expand...
1. it's not supposed to.
2. it should, as that is how it worked before you fitted the cut off solenoid.

What did you want it to do?
 
Bring back some engine braking, as folks suggested it would. I didnt have any idle problem before, but I was told isolating the stepper would assist with engine braking which in my mind would aid rear stability.

I like to slow down on the engine, rather than braking all the time, so I ride smoothly but quickly. Suspension setup has helped, but not fully cured the problem.

Oh, I should have said...it DOES idle with the engine warm and valve open...but it surges, which it didnt do before.
 
I am no expert on Todds kit, I went with a manual valve. But what I found was that except for the issue of forgetting to open the valve for cold starting sometimes there has been no negative impact from adding a valve to close off the stepper motor circuit on my Griso 1100. And it did add a small amount of engine braking which has made an improvement in shifting action.
But your whole "feel" issue sounds like something else and I am not sure what exactly is wrong with your bike and what needs to be done to correct it. But I would start with finishing the suspension setup if you have not already set the sag.
 
I've never really had any shift problems, the Griso gearbox is the best I have ever experienced. I even asked after my test ride whether it was some sort of microshift gearshift because it was so smooth!

However, a couple of times today I missed the clutch on upshifts (B5027 is a VERY bumpy and busy road - barely 2 cars wide in places) and it did change up seamlessly despite that. I have tried clutchless shifting on it before and felt it was too harsh but with the stepper, the bike hardly noticed the absence of the clutch. I will experiment more in that direction.

It is possible that the stepper HAS retrieved a little engine braking. Certainly the bike feels better with it than without.

I'll try and collar a couple of people to set the sag with me :)
 
Setting the sag is probably the most important part of setting up your suspension and the first part to do, because everything else is dependent on it. It is also possibly the least understood part of suspension. A common misconception being that your preload directly effects the stiffness of the ride. It does not. It does, however, directly effect the actual geometry of the bike with the rider on board and as such your preload/sag settings can have a huge impact on the feel of the bike.
A easy experiment you can do to show the effect of preload/sag on the bike is this; at night with your headlight on point the bike towards a wall about ten feet away so that you can see where your headlight is hitting the wall. Then climb on to the bike and watch the point where your headlight hits the wall move. If you have a buddy who can balance the bike for you during this then you can take it a step further and assume a normal riding position. Take note of where your headlight hits the wall while in a riding position and where it hits when the bike is a rest without a rider. The headlight should move down the wall about an inch or so when you climb on board. This would indicate a balanced suspension front to rear. If the beam moves down too much or worse yet up when you are on board then it is likely showing you that your suspension is not balanced front to rear and this means that the dynamic geometry of the bike is different then the static geometry of the bike due to a lack of balance between the front and rear suspensions. This is not a way to set up the bike but rather just to demonstrate the effect of sag on the attitude of the bike.
The Griso is not an FZR but it is a pretty competent handling bike and if yours is not feeling the way it should then I would guess that it is not set up right.
Good luck.
As for the stepper motor, turning mine off definitely adds a small amount of engine braking and possibly because the motor reacts quicker to closing the throttle the bike shifts better and does not need as much clutch (if any) to shift smoothly.
I still think that your "feel" issue is more likely a result of suspension set up then engine braking/stepper motor function and that reving the snot out of it to get more engine braking (it is normal for any motor to produce more engine braking the more you rev it) is actually a band-aid that is helping mask the real issue of lack of set up.
 
Hi Guzzihero please listern to Guzzimoto and set your sag for your weight ,the griso handles fine even on maxxis tyres and everyone is telling me there crap
 
johnno said:
Hi Guzzihero please listern to Guzzimoto and set your sag for your weight ,the griso handles fine even on maxxis tyres and everyone is telling me there crap
Click to expand...
Which Maxxis tires. I had a set of SuperMaxx tires on a Buell and they were great.
Can't get them in the US any more.
 
I am listening :p I just need some helpers to set it ;)

Right now, the bike handles sweetly. I weigh about 220lbs so it might be about right, who knows? When I can muster up some able assistants, I will take a look.

Edit:
I have pretty much bugger all chance of getting TWO people who can help me. Can anyone suggest a starting adjustment from stock setting for a 220lbs fatbody?
 
Try getting a set of stands for the wheels then you only need some one to
measure the amount it sags when you get on it.
 
In a pinch you can either put the bike on a rear stand (preferably with the front wheel sitting on a piece of wood or something to raise it up level with the rear wheel) (whoops, forgot Guzzi did not design the CARC to use a stand, that one requires a wheel chock) or balance the bike against a wall or doorway trying to keep all the weight on the wheels. Either one of these ways (or another way if you can think of it) will allow you to do it with one helper. No, neither way is perfect but either is better then not doing it. In my experience the spring rates are a bit soft for someone who weighs 220 (I am almost 200 lbs plus gear) and the dampening is too hard (compression). Adding preload to set the sag does not change the spring rate but at least it gets the ride height in the right range. Then dial out compression dampening until the ride quality is right.
 
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