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How to screw up an Oil change - 101

Discussion in 'Cal 1400 8V' started by PaulDavies, Sep 9, 2018.

  1. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Lost count of how many oil changes I've done over the years, but this was my 3rd on the audace. Drained oil, dropped filter into drain pan, gave it a few minutes, put plug back and torqued new filter into place. Filled with about 3 liters and fired it up - result, oil everywhere - all over the garage floor, all over the ATV lift, all over my tools on the floor. I stupidly didn't check the old oil filter. It's rubber seal had come adrift and was still inside the sump housing, so now I had two oil seals in there which of course blew apart and dumped 1.5 liters of 10w60 (about $37 CDN). Fortunately the filter was OK but my ego is severely bruised - grrr - lesson learnt the hard way
     
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  2. Guzzi_Lou

    Guzzi_Lou Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Ouch! I've actually been considering doing the oil change myself on the California soon. Did you follow any guide somewhere Paul?
     
  3. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    It's pretty easy really (but not foolproof as I have demonstrated) - I always refer to the cali 1400 service manual (google it), it has good pictures. The Filter is screwed into a sump recess under the bike so you need a removal tool that fits between filter and housing. You can then undo with a wrench. I bought mine from Lordco for $12, but Todd sells one on the site.

    Reading the oil level with the stupid black plastic dipstick is a pain and should be done with the bike upright. Remember, draining the oil does not drain the radiator so when refilling, only put in 3 liters and measure level , general consensus is no more than half way between min-max on the dipstick otherwise it will burp the excess into the airbox (read about it here https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/lots-of-oil-in-the-air-filter-box-california-1400.15458/) - oh and make sure the old oil seal comes out with the old filter ha ha (I can laugh about it now)
     
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  4. Guzzi_Lou

    Guzzi_Lou Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I just took a look and it does look very easy and it turns out I've got a cap type removal wrench that fits already on hand. Assume the drain plug is at the rear? Looks like that's it.

    Did you even have to lift the bike at all? I may drive up onto a board or 2 to get the oil to the back (assuming that's where the plug is).
     
  5. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Yes the drain plug is at the rear. You can drain and remove filter etc on the side stand, I only put it on the ATV lift to keep it upright for filling and measuring oil level.
     
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  6. kiwi dave

    kiwi dave GT Reference

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    It's actually easier to drain when on the side stand, better access to the filter and drain plug. After draining, I hold the bike up vertical to try and assist any oil that is still hiding somewhere.

    Be aware that the filter is a little shorter than those on most other Guzzies (except the Griso 1200SE). Genuine filter is 2A000668, alternative Hiflo HF565.
     
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  7. Trout

    Trout GT Reference

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    I have forgotten to put the drain plug in.
     
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  8. kiwi dave

    kiwi dave GT Reference

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    Me too, except it was on a Triumph. I was wondering why it was taking so long for the tank to fill. The oil was pouring over my new boots.
     
  9. Raven

    Raven Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    That's one way to waterproof them!:p
     
  10. Guzzi_Lou

    Guzzi_Lou Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Thought I'd share my experience doing my first oil change. Here are my notes I made for next time below.

    In the end it's a piece of cake. Took me longer than it needed to because after pouring in all 3 litres and checking the level BEFORE starting the bike I thought I overfilled it and had to suck a bunch out through the fill hole. Of course, after warming up the bike it went low and I poured it ALL back in again. A full 3 litres works perfectly.

    - do after a ride so oil is warm and drains easily

    - remove 17mm drain plug at back of pan and drain oil

    - reinstall plug

    - remove oil filter and let oil drain (ensure rubber gasket didn't stay behind)

    - reinstall new oil filter

    - pour in 3 litres of new 10w-60 oil

    - don't check level yet

    - start bike and let run for a few minutes

    - check oil level with bike level (wood block under kickstand), should not require any more oil

    - note: I found it much easier to check dipstick in bright sun
     
  11. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Yeah - now you're ready for the gearbox oil, it's even simpler (although considerably more messy as it gets over the frame and everywhere when draining - use lots of paper and spread it around). You do have to remove the small right side heat shield and the plastic cover behind it. I've noticed that changing the gearbox oil always leads to a considerable improvement in smoothness and slicker changes
     
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  12. Guzzi_Lou

    Guzzi_Lou Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Thanks Paul ... bike only has 11,000+ km so I suspect it's still early for that but good to know I can also do that.
     
  13. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I just do it every year regardless - it only costs about $2.50 in oil and you're down there anyway with the engine oil change. Just done my 3rd in 15000km and it's noticeably better each time :):)
     
  14. Guzzi_Lou

    Guzzi_Lou Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    No kidding ... off to check the service manual for procedures ...
     
  15. Raven

    Raven Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    10,000 km for all oils is prescribed for my Norge. For me this works out to once a year.
     
  16. Guzzi_Lou

    Guzzi_Lou Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    ^ At my rate that's every 4 years or so lol.

    Paul, I don't see the type/grade of oil in the service manual or the black maintenance book. Got that and any tips like amount, etc.?

    Thanks.
     
  17. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Workshop (and owners) manual says... AGIP GEAR MG/S SAE 85 W 90 Gearbox oil API GL-5, Quantity is quoted as 430cc (although in practice you prop bike into the vertical and fill until it comes out of the level plug). Cost depends upon whether you go Synthetic or Mineral.

    Pictures can be seen on Page 59 of WM. Don't forget to clean the swarf off the magnet and prepare yourself for a lot of mess. I use lots of paper towel afterwards but oil drops off the frame and other bits for 1 to 2 days after the cleanup, so keep that paper under the bike.

    Again pretty simple apart from the mess :rock::rock::rock::rock:
     
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  18. John L

    John L Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    I found it a lot easier to read the dipstick if you flatten off one side.
     

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  19. Guzzi_Lou

    Guzzi_Lou Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Don't laugh but I've actually thought of painting 1 side with white oil-based paint. Your solution works too though.
     
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  20. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I use a long thin screwdriver calibrated to the dip stick - much easier to read
     
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