• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

How to use an Engine Pump

D

Doc

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
28
Location
Perth Australia
I've bought an engine pump from aerostitch so I can pump up a flat tyre. It basically works by replacing one spark plug with a one way valve connected to a hose, so air is pumped out during the compression. The other lead is removed so that the engine is not turning over but cranking only; however, I don't want the FI to work during the cranking (I'd rather not have fuel in my tyres :)). Can some one tell me an efficient way to stop the injector from spraying fuel into the chamber?


thanks...
 
Sorry M8 but I cant think of a good reason to buy one of these when you have to have HT leads disconnected and loose.....:blink:
while the engine is turning on the starter.....too much risk :S

The idea is that the valve draws air from the outside into the cylinder then shoves it into your tyre, however it "assumes" that there is no bangybangy mixture either in the cylinder or will come in through the injector.

I`d spend a bit more and get a neat little`lectric one....:)

Good Luck

Eric B)
 
You can check with Aerostitch, but from what I've seen in their catalog that pump does not pump air directly from the cylinder to the tire. It is supposed to be powered by the air pressure in the cylinder but pumps fresh air into the tire. How it does that I do not know since I have not bought one. But it clearly said in the catalog that it pumped fresh air into the tire. All you need to worry about is making sure the unused spark lead is grounded I would think.
 
Those things were all the rage in the UK about 30 years ago. I had one. It was useless.

Do yourself a favour and buy a small electric one, they work well, and you don't have to dismantle half the bike to use it.
 
Im beginning to agree with you all.... I had a flat rear a couple of days ago, as usual it was between nowwhere and somewhere else. I used the plug and go set up from aerostitch (inserts a mushroom and seals from inside... very cool!) - to infllate I simply plugged in my old electric pump and then rode 400km home. Yesturday I checked out the engine pump in my garage.... was a pain in the arse to use .... I thought they'd be good to have on a v-twin..spending us$100 on a cycle pump makes more sense when you need it:)
 
Hello all;

Don't forget that these bikes are twin plugs... I am not sure that the impact would be with one plug still firing the gas and air mix and the other plug hole open. I would suspect a rather large FLAME would shoot out.

I would go for the small electric pump and keep the engine running whilst pumping....
 
Sam is precisely correct about using these on the dual-plugs-per-cylinder Guzzis such as the Breva 1100, Griso, etc.
'
They work great on the single-plug-per-cylinder Guzzis such as my ELdo and V11 Sport. Mine'll fill a tire in under 2 minutes, and I have even seated a bead with it.
 
Your on the money Greg!! They do work good on single plug models as I have used them many times in outback OZ for 25 years (I still dont know why people lose their front door keys on extremely remote rail access tracks)!! I lost mine once and had to wait 12hrs for a 4wd to trundle past to get some air.:dry: :dry:

Didn't get any fuel in my tyres just warm dry Pilbara air:)

Wont get into the twin plug discussion.

Kym
 
They have what is basically a 'reed valve' in the side of them. Leave the throttle closed, start the bike, it will tend to draw air on the intake stroke through the reed valve, then use that fresh air to pump the tire.
In the carb days, that was fine. Because of the reed valve, there wasn't enough vacuum on the carb to suck fuel either.
With EFI, different story. You get fuel no matter what. So you need to kill the fuel (and likely the spark) from just the one side. Yet you want the other side to operate. Sounds like too much trouble to me.
 
If your in the back of beyond then I suppose an electric one is pretty good, who wants to pump up a tyre from the engine, all that extra work for zero benefit. If your in the UK or similar populated area get a phone and break down insurance. Lets face it if a tyres gone flat quickly it's usually got a hole in it. If it's gone down real slow, you should really notice before you ride.
 
Gary wrote:
If your in the back of beyond then I suppose an electric one is pretty good, who wants to pump up a tyre from the engine, all that extra work for zero benefit. If your in the UK or similar populated area get a phone and break down insurance. Lets face it if a tyres gone flat quickly it's usually got a hole in it. If it's gone down real slow, you should really notice before you ride.
Click to expand...


Because I have patched or plugged mine and my friends tubes / tires for various reasons over the years and saved a day ride or even a long vacation. Done it faster and done it a lot cheaper.

I like to save time and money.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top