ignition timing procedure...please...

[ARVENO]

Can anyone explain me how to set correctly the timing to my 1000 sp ?
so far i've never been able to really "get it" correctly. Now it's too retarded.

Questions:

How do you guys get to those 2 bolts than old the ignition housing ?
turning the ignition housing clock-wise i will advance or retard the timing ?


I need to get a Guzzi manual .

Anyway , sorry for the stupid questions

Cheers
Marco

 

[Chris R]

From your previous posts I gather you don't know or don't trust the marks on your flywheel. That's ok - even from the factory that are frequently wrong. To accurately check the marks you need a timing wheel that fits on the nose of the crank (you bolt it up using the bolt that holds on the alternator) and a piston stop. A piston stop is simply an old spark plug with the ceramic removed and a piece of threaded rod with a ball end (not to damage the piston) inserted. With the timing wheel (can be bought or made) installed with a suitable pointer and piston stop inserted in one cylinder 9plug removed from the other) rotate the engine one way until it stops, note the degrees,rotate it the other way until it stops, note the degrees and rotate the timing wheel to split the difference. Top Dead Center should be exactly between the two i.e. 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center and 20 Degrees After Top Dead Center. You can do the same thing with a dial gauge but this has the benefit of being fool proof.

You then use the degree wheel to inscribe the marks on the flywheel - typically you want to put one set of marks for timing at idle and timing at full advance. You can also color code them. Repeat on other cylinder if you don't feel up to the maths of adding 90 degrees.

The advance number is a general number determined by the factory at the time with the gas available - It is not written in stone. Guzzi figured it out by putting the engine on the dyno and advancing the timing until they got maximum power without detonation. It varies from engine to engine and with fuel but it is always safest to be a little rich and a little retarded :S

In the good old days they left it to the operator to set the engine timing and carburetor themselves on the fly - it was basic user knowledge when you got both right.

Then you get out your timing light and rotate the distributor until you are happy. Check that the advance is actually working by twisting the rotor.

The easy way to know which way to turn the distributor is to remove the cover, hit the starter and see which way the rotor turns - of you rotate the distributor the same way as the rotor rotates then you are retarding the timing. I put on a little arrow.

The bolts are a bit of bugger but are not that bad - especially if you have a 'starter' wrench - it is C shaped.
Ta,

 

[Trout]

Check out a set of "crows feet" they are an open end wrench without the handle, Instead they have a square hole that fits your 3/8" ratchet with extension. A 14" or longer extension with the crows foot will get you past the cylinder for the forward bolt. A regular wrench can be used on the back bolt if you push the crankcase breather box out of the way. Pull the boot off the stock air cleaner or pull the K&N filter off the carb, It's a pain but you get used to it.

 

[injundave]

1) Get a manual and follow the instructions. They are not that hard. Just remember that there are 3 marks per cylinder. TDC (top dead centre) is marked either D (right cylinder) or S (left cylinder). Right and left are taken from the perspective of sitting on the bike. The next mark is the static timing mark and the third is the full advance mark. When turning the motor the advance mark appears first, followed by the static mark and then the TDC mark. The easiest way to turn the motor is to remove spark plugs and the alternator cover and use an Allen key in the bolt holding the alternator rotor on. When running, the motor revolves clockwise, viewed from the front and this is the way to turn it when looking for the timing marks on the flywheel. Set the points to the correct gap, .014" from memory.
2) Put you thumb over the spark plug hole on the right cylinder as you turn the motor over. When you feel pressure on your thumb you know the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. Start looking for the D mark. When you see it, turn the motor backwards past the next (static) mark, then turn the motor forwards until the static mark is lined up with the index mark on the edge of the viewing hole. This is where you start from. The points for the right cylinder are the ones closest to the centre line of the bike and are adjusted by moving the distributor until you find the point at which the points are just starting to open. A circuit tester will help you find the opening point. Tighten the adjuster bolts.
3) Find the static mark for the left cylinder by the same process. The points closest to the outside of the bike are for the left cylinder. They are adjusted by loosening the two screws holding the points in place, not to be confused with the screws you use when adjusting the points gap, and moving the points assembly to find the opening point. Once again a circuit tester is very useful.
4) Once the points are statically timed you can chack using a timing light and running the motor until the advance timing mark appears in the timing hole. I find that, at the revs needed, the bike dances across the floor on the main stand, so I don't bother unless it feels wrong when ridden.
5) Fit electronic ignition. After years of getting close after struggling with points, I have recently seen the light and fitted a dyna 3 set to my T3. I now have both cylinders firing at exactly the right time and don't have to worry about the timing coming out of adjustment as the points wear. well worth the cost! I hope this helps.

 

[ARVENO]

Guys , thank you all for your help , "somehow" i was timing it at the TDC mark !!!! what a ass..... ah ah !! that's why i didn't get it right.... heck , i was tired , I did it after i replaced the clutch.... glad that reading the posts here , a light came up in my mind telling me i timed the engine on the TDC mark

Anyway , tonight i will re do it.... thanks

Marco

 

[injundave]

Guys , thank you all for your help , "somehow" i was timing it at the TDC mark !!!! what a ass..... ah ah !! that's why i didn't get it right.... heck , i was tired , I did it after i replaced the clutch.... glad that reading the posts here , a light came up in my mind telling me i timed the engine on the TDC mark

Anyway , tonight i will re do it.... thanks

Marco

Hi Marco, yeah timing on the TDC mark would do it. Have you got it running better now?

 

[ARVENO]

Hello Guys, howdy ?

I "think" i got the timing adjusted correctly , the bike , start and idle very well , it does't "pop" or "shot" through the pipes anymore and that's a good sign.
I used a strobo light to check if the timing was good , but i could not rev the bike up to 6500 and my manual says, I mean the bike at 4500 rpm was screaming... and the engine was not hot enough.... i ( obviously ) didn't not see the timing mark showing up.
Should i've seen the timing mark at around 4500 rpm ?


right hand spark plug is black , like that cylinder is running way too rich. ( i could see the piston is wet )
Left hand pug is perfect .

If i open the throttle from the first gear to the fifth , the bike pulls strong...and seems to me running well, but i could not get over 85mph.
from 0 mph to 80 mph in a breeze, than...it takes too much , In my opinion to go faster .

THE PROBLEM is : in second, third or fourth or even fifth gear , if keep running at 3000/3500 rpm It stumble/missing... like i am running out of fuel and needs to turn the fuel valves from ON to RES.

What do you think ,Timing problem or carburetor problem ?

thanks for your help,
Marco.

 

[john zibell]

If you have timed both cylinders correctly (with dual points it is a little tricky), then it is a carburetor problem.

 

[ARVENO]

If you have timed both cylinders correctly (with dual points it is a little tricky), then it is a carburetor problem.

I followed the instructions for the "static" timing , I used a 12 volt light to understand when the points open and adjusted so the point open at the static timing mark.
It's not that difficult to understand and to do , i re checked the static timing few times before to tight down the ignition housing bolts and the 12 volt light it lighted up exactly at the static timing mark .

I don't know if it's correct or not but the manual i got ( haynes ) says to check the dynamic timing using a strobo light and to rev the engine at 6500 rpm to and watch for the advance timing mark.
Is it correct ?

I think the timing is correct ( maybe not spot on ) but since i have the problem at low rpm , before to give up i am going to open the carb and see what's inside.

If i ever going to give up , does anyone know a good GUZZI mechanic in NY area ?
In my area i asked around , and well.... noone have ever worked on a GUZZI..... and they are not willing to.


thanks again.
Marco

 

[Trout]

If you have timed both cylinders correctly (with dual points it is a little tricky), then it is a carburetor problem.

before to give up i am going to open the carb and see what's inside.

DON'T TOUCH THAT CARB! Marco you are fixing to make a classic mistake, one that has dropped many fine machines into my lap. Name your price for that Guzzi now because in a short period of time it will be worth far less and I'll own it for almost nothing. Have I got your attention? Answer each of my questions.

Was this bike running when you got it?
How well did this bike run then?
Why did you feel the timing needed adjusting?
What else have you done? IE Adjusted valves? Installed points? Adjusted Carbs? Played with throttle / choke cables?

Marco I'm not trying to discourage you from working on your Guzzi. Apparently you have some tools and some mechanical ability but a wise man knows his limitations. Know when to "hold 'em & when to fold 'em" is good gamblers advice, it comes from experience. Experience comes from making mistakes and learning from those mistakes. You are operating under "if this didn't fix it it must be something else" so lets pull the carbs apart. Then it's: I don't want to spend that much for a gasket so I'll just silicone it. Then the silicone gets sucked into a passage so lets put in bigger jets.....

Go back to square one. How was this bike running before you started working on it?

 

[ARVENO]

If you have timed both cylinders correctly (with dual points it is a little tricky), then it is a carburetor problem.

before to give up i am going to open the carb and see what's inside.

DON'T TOUCH THAT CARB! Marco you are fixing to make a classic mistake, one that has dropped many fine machines into my lap. Name your price for that Guzzi now because in a short period of time it will be worth far less and I'll own it for almost nothing. Have I got your attention? Answer each of my questions.

Was this bike running when you got it?
How well did this bike run then?
Why did you feel the timing needed adjusting?
What else have you done? IE Adjusted valves? Installed points? Adjusted Carbs? Played with throttle / choke cables?

Marco I'm not trying to discourage you from working on your Guzzi. Apparently you have some tools and some mechanical ability but a wise man knows his limitations. Know when to "hold 'em & when to fold 'em" is good gamblers advice, it comes from experience. Experience comes from making mistakes and learning from those mistakes. You are operating under "if this didn't fix it it must be something else" so lets pull the carbs apart. Then it's: I don't want to spend that much for a gasket so I'll just silicone it. Then the silicone gets sucked into a passage so lets put in bigger jets.....

Go back to square one. How was this bike running before you started working on it?

The bike was not running well since the beginning. I knew it .
The mileage is original 25k
The piston surface does not have lot of carbons on it, valves doesn't look bad either.
Does not smoke,
start and idle very well.

i am not new to dell'orto carbs. I know how to open a carb , clean it and put it back together. ( with brand new gaskets )
I am not afraid to pull a cylinder head either ( pulled lot of cylinder heads off my harleys... LOL )
It's my bike and i will never do a cheap fix, that's why i rather do it myself than ask a "mechanic" to do it.
I don't trust anyone, and also i want to learn.
believe me, there are too many "mechanics " out there who doesn't know ****
That's why i am a stubborn sob , and i try and re try till i get it.... :angry:

Now , why do i want to inspect the carbs ?

Because is the only thing on this bike that i did not take apart .

assuming the timing is right, then let me see how the carbs looks like from inside, it won't bother a good cleaning anyway.
If inside the carbs i won't find anything to worry about , then i have to go back and get some help to get it timed properly,


Then , once the timinig is spot on , the carbs clean , the valve adjusted, i ma positive the bike will run like a champ.
I don't see any mechanical problems , just "tuning" problems...

Sure , a Guzzi experienced mechanic will fix everything in few hours.... but heck , i have to learn how to maintain MY bike, i am not going to bring it to a shop every time i have to re-set the timing and such.
No man , that's not me.
I like to know every single thing on my bikes, let me feel i am the OWNER , now just the rider.... and if i am stranded , far from home i will know what to do.

I understand what you mean , don't get me wrong, and i appreciate your advice , and i still have some patience left...then of course if i will give up, i would like to take it to a mechanic who can explain me what was wrong and how he fixed it, so to learn something.... but looks like is not easy meet mechanics who are willing to "teach"...

I will keep you posted...we'll see....
thanks
Marco

 

[Trout]

Very Cool Marco! I like what you are saying and it's what being a "biker" is all about in my book.

Back to basics.
Have you replaced both points & both condensors? A bad condensor can cause problems.

What do you have your points set at?
Point gap affects timing so they need to be gapped as close to the same setting as possible. If one is a wide gap and the other is at a narrow gap the cylinders are not synced. You could have #2 cylinder spot on but the other will fire early or late. Also, are you aware that one set of points is on a "slider" (That may be a poor description). The bottom set can be adjusted forward & backward to set timing without effecting point gap.

Have you checked BOTH sets of points for static (test lite or multimeter) and dynamic (strobe) timing to make sure they are opening & advancing at the correct marks? I know in your earlier post you said that the advance mark wasn't showing with the strobe, did you check one cylinder or both?
It's one of the reasons I said don't touch the carbs. In my way of thinking I don't try something else until the first step has been fully resolved so lets try to eliminate any & all possible timing problems.
The mechanical advance can also get stuck and hold the points at an advance then when you run the engine become unstuck and your timing will become retarded and retarded timing will allow the bike to idle but lose power in the top end.

In an earlier post you said that one cylinder was fouling the plug and wet with gas so it does sound like you may have a carb problem but are you getting fire to that cylinder? Pull the plug wire off and stick any old plug on the wire and ground it. The bike should start & run on 1 cylinder and you will get to see how well the plug is firing. Spark should get stronger when you rev the engine. If you have good spark then just for the fun of it check the choke slide on the fouled cylinders carb, it may be stuck or have a weak spring or be missing.

Don't give up yet, walk away for awhile let your head process "stuff" & the answer will come. Start with fresh eyes & a rested head. Go back through it one more time then post what you find then we can move on to the next step.

 

[ARVENO]

Very Cool Marco! I like what you are saying and it's what being a "biker" is all about in my book.

Back to basics.
Have you replaced both points & both condensors? A bad condensor can cause problems.

What do you have your points set at?
Point gap affects timing so they need to be gapped as close to the same setting as possible. If one is a wide gap and the other is at a narrow gap the cylinders are not synced. You could have #2 cylinder spot on but the other will fire early or late. Also, are you aware that one set of points is on a "slider" (That may be a poor description). The bottom set can be adjusted forward & backward to set timing without effecting point gap.

Have you checked BOTH sets of points for static (test lite or multimeter) and dynamic (strobe) timing to make sure they are opening & advancing at the correct marks? I know in your earlier post you said that the advance mark wasn't showing with the strobe, did you check one cylinder or both?
It's one of the reasons I said don't touch the carbs. In my way of thinking I don't try something else until the first step has been fully resolved so lets try to eliminate any & all possible timing problems.
The mechanical advance can also get stuck and hold the points at an advance then when you run the engine become unstuck and your timing will become retarded and retarded timing will allow the bike to idle but lose power in the top end.

In an earlier post you said that one cylinder was fouling the plug and wet with gas so it does sound like you may have a carb problem but are you getting fire to that cylinder? Pull the plug wire off and stick any old plug on the wire and ground it. The bike should start & run on 1 cylinder and you will get to see how well the plug is firing. Spark should get stronger when you rev the engine. If you have good spark then just for the fun of it check the choke slide on the fouled cylinders carb, it may be stuck or have a weak spring or be missing.

Don't give up yet, walk away for awhile let your head process "stuff" & the answer will come. Start with fresh eyes & a rested head. Go back through it one more time then post what you find then we can move on to the next step.

Trout ,
First of all , thank you very much for your time , i really appreciate it....

Ok , back to businnes...

I replaced the condensers ,both, but not the points because in my opinion they still look good , and the new points i got from MG cycle are "unknown " brand , the one i got in my bike are Magneti Marelli (made in Italy ) so i just wanted to keep them rather than put some taiwan made points. ( i just guess they are taiwan made , but since there is nothing written i cannot be sure ).
Point gap is set at 0.15 ( my manual says to set it between 0.14 & 0.17 )
I static timed the engine , right hand cylinder first, rotating the distributor housing, then i adjusted the left cyl. rotating the place which old the point plate.
So far so good.
I re-checked with a 12v light , and the light turned on when the static timing mark was alligned with the mark on the engine case.

I checked the advance unit ( underneath the points plate ) and was not stuck .
I have a strobo light , but i could not rev the engine to 6500 rpm , because i was not sure 100% the 6500rpm was right.
I did not see the retarded timing mark on the fly wheel coming up at the idle either.... :?:

You are correct , left hand plugs is good.
right plug smells like fuel , and i can see the top of the piston is wet !

engine idle and start good, but i does not rev really quickly .

I am aware that before to adjust the carbs , the timing has to be spot on, then the valves needs to be adjusted... at that point make sense adjust the carbs.

I need to open them up , to clean and see if the jetting and the needles are the same each side.
Happened to me in the past to have a beemer with the needle set at the different location ,and different jetting too..( you never know what thePO did..)

Once i am sure the carbs are clean and everything match ( each side ) i can go back and re-check the timing....chech sparks ecc... ( everything you suggested make sense...)

For sure there are few things to check:
Carbs, timing , coils .( i don't see anything else can cause problem i am having )
It's easy , for me , check carbs, then coils, if everything is good, then i need to learn how to set up the timing...

Don't forget that i am not sure the timing is correct.

You are right , happen to me all the time , when i have a problem with a bike or car, i walk away.... keep on thinking and then , i see the light !! and i get where the mistake was.... most of the time the solution is easy...

Anyway i am going to test the sparks first... then i will post the result.

Thanks again for your time, learning something new every day.....

cheers
Marco

 

[Trout]

I static timed the engine , right hand cylinder first, rotating the distributor housing, then i adjusted the left cyl. rotating the place which old the point plate.
So far so good. I re-checked with a 12v light , and the light turned on when the static timing mark was alligned with the mark on the engine case.

Ok Review so I know we are on the same page. You started on the right cylinder and checked it statically and the points opened at the mark. Good.
When you checked the left cylinder what did you move to bring it in alignment with the mark?
If you moved the distributor then the right cylinder is no longer correct.
When you rechecked did you check both cylinders?
You have to recheck both cylinders to make sure.

I hear what you are saying about the carbs on the beemer. I have a T3 I'm playing with now that has the slide needles set at different heights & different jets & different float settings. I'd still feel a lot better if we can make sure you timing is good before doing the carbs.

 

[Supaflee]

This is really interesting for me . Recently i experienced similar problems with my '85 SP 11.
However , I also knew the previous owner to be a fiddler.
All the electrics , timing etc was perfect,( Dyna 111 fitted ), but was running real bad on the r/h cylinder .
Guess what I found???? Inside the R/H Mikuni I found the float level actuator had been fitted upside down. There is a huge dimensional offset in the little brass horseshoe which pushes the float needle up to regulate the fuel . Because it was upside down , the float bowl only ever got enough fuel in it to run the idle jet . The Main jet was in mid air .
Then I checked the L/H carb as well. Although it was assembled correctly the float level was all to hell.
They are both set at 18mm and the engine performs excellently , idle air screws are 2 turns open .Size 200 main jets . #4 slides . Goes like a real Pizza Rocket now .
Im keen to hear how your bike turns out in the end Arveno, Trout sounds like a Grand 'Ol Tutor to me , Im listening with very keen interest to him along the way.
Best regards Supaflee

 

[ARVENO]

I static timed the engine , right hand cylinder first, rotating the distributor housing, then i adjusted the left cyl. rotating the place which old the point plate.
So far so good. I re-checked with a 12v light , and the light turned on when the static timing mark was alligned with the mark on the engine case.

Ok Review so I know we are on the same page. You started on the right cylinder and checked it statically and the points opened at the mark. Good.
When you checked the left cylinder what did you move to bring it in alignment with the mark?
If you moved the distributor then the right cylinder is no longer correct.

NO NO , i didn't touch the distributor, i just unscrewed the 2 screws on the points plate, in order to more only the right hand set of point ( the points closer to the right hand cylinder.)

When you rechecked did you check both cylinders?

mmhh , nope , i adjusted the right hand cylinder, check it few of times with a 12v light,I turned the engine over couple of times to make sure the light was ON at the retarded timing mark, then i tight down the distributor bolts, then i took care of the left hand cylinder, same way. but after i set the left cylinder i did not re-check the right hand cylin. Maybe I should re-check just to make sure.... you have a good point.

You have to recheck both cylinders to make sure.

I hear what you are saying about the carbs on the beemer. I have a T3 I'm playing with now that has the slide needles set at different heights & different jets & different float settings. I'd still feel a lot better if we can make sure you timing is good before doing the carbs.

The fact that the bike runs worse if i keep the rpm at 3000/3500 ..... makes me thinking about fuel related issue.
Ok, i cannot get it at max speed... i tried on back roads LOL !! and i got easily at 80 mph, but then was really slow to come up over 80mph.... it should come up easily at 100/110 mph am i correct ?
Do you know when you are riding and your running out of gas ? I get exactly that feeling . when the engine is about to die, then i turn the petcock to RES, and then , the bike keeps running well, i get that feeling if i keep riding at 3000 rpm, feels like the engine is dying, then comes back, then it dies, then it comes back...
I hope you get what i mean, sorry I suck at explaining things... :lol:
[/b]

So i got 3 issues

>right spark plug wet like crazy.
>i cannot get it at max speed. ( please don't tell the Cops in town.... ah ah !!! )
>dying/stumbling around 3000/35000 rpm. ( when cruising steady at 3000 /3500 rpm )

I am going to double check , the timing, then i will see what inside the carbs, and i will post here.

Thanks again !!

btw , Supaflee i hope to discover the problem is/are the carbs...it will be an easy fix, and i will be happy...
thanks for your witness ! And yes, Trout seems having a procedure to trouble shoot , i am more like "i am gonna take everything apart" !! ah ah !! ( my bad )..

Cheers
Marco

 

[Trout]

Marco, I'm believing that your timing is close enough for the bike to run better than it is, you've finally convinced me.

A couple things stand out: ?The bike runs better on reserve? Makes me think about petcocks with dirt/rust that are partially blocked, but would not account for the wet plug. I'm wondering if we have multiple problems here. it's a shame you are in NY & I'm in FL or we could throw another tank / carbs on it and see what happens.

Timing can't be so far off to cause the wet plug either so it looks like it's time to open up the carb. BUT before we do humor me and just pull the choke slide out on the wet side cylinder. Those little buggers can hang up or a weak/missing spring will allow them to choke out at running speed.

Throttle cables that are not adjusted properly will cause problems but again not a wet plug. The only thing that will do it (providing we have compression/valves that are seating/good spark) is too much fuel. Check that choke slide make sure it moves freely if it does then open the carb. Sounds to me like you have been into carbs before so I'll not go into that unless you ask. If that spark plug has been getting that wet you should really put in a new one.

Like Supaflea I gotta know what is up with this Guzzi. Saw pictures in a previous post when you did the clutch she's a good looking machine. Did you do the cosmetics or did you get her like that?

 

[ARVENO]

Marco, I'm believing that your timing is close enough for the bike to run better than it is, you've finally convinced me.

A couple things stand out: ?The bike runs better on reserve? Makes me think about petcocks with dirt/rust that are partially blocked, but would not account for the wet plug. I'm wondering if we have multiple problems here. it's a shame you are in NY & I'm in FL or we could throw another tank / carbs on it and see what happens.

Timing can't be so far off to cause the wet plug either so it looks like it's time to open up the carb. BUT before we do humor me and just pull the choke slide out on the wet side cylinder. Those little buggers can hang up or a weak/missing spring will allow them to choke out at running speed.

Throttle cables that are not adjusted properly will cause problems but again not a wet plug. The only thing that will do it (providing we have compression/valves that are seating/good spark) is too much fuel. Check that choke slide make sure it moves freely if it does then open the carb. Sounds to me like you have been into carbs before so I'll not go into that unless you ask. If that spark plug has been getting that wet you should really put in a new one.

Like Supaflea I gotta know what is up with this Guzzi. Saw pictures in a previous post when you did the clutch she's a good looking machine. Did you do the cosmetics or did you get her like that?

Trout ,

i know i suck in explaining things....LOL !! :lol:

[b]Do you know when you are riding and your running out of gas ? I get exactly that feeling . when the engine is about to die, then i turn the petcock to RES, and then , the bike keeps running well,[/b]

i get that feeling but i DO NOT turn the petcock into reserve ,while riding steady at 3000 rpm, feels like the engine is dying, then comes back, then it dies, again....then it comes back , and i can feel it's not an electrical issue but more a fuel related issue.

The gas tank , and petcock are new ( le mans replica ) , my buddy did the paint job , narrowing down all the parts i replaced, the only thing i did not touch are the carbs .

I am familiar with dell'ortos , mikuni roundslide , bing and some butterly carbs used on early HD's , so i am not afraid of take them apart , and compare left and right ride... something has to be wrong with them, i hope !! ah ah !!

I will post pics , just to have you guys have a look in case i will be missing something....

btw throttle cables look synchro enough. , and on the manual is explained how to adjust the idle mixture screw.

The other day , after i adjusted the timing i put a brand new plug , and after not even 10 miles ride , i got home, and pulled it . It was soaked or fuel.

About the cosmetics , i polished the hell out of engine and trans and rear bevel , powder coat the wheels , and rear swing arm , put brand new calipers/pad , new brake hoses , cleaned the rotors , new tires , new oil sump spacer , replaced the clutch, replaced bearings here and there, ecc... ..... yeah i love my bike .
Now it sure looks good if only will run as good as it looks....LOL !!

ok , gotta go , tomorrow : carburetor surgery.... !!

Marco





I

 

[ARVENO]

it's a shame you are in NY & I'm in FL or we could throw another tank / carbs on it and see what happens.

Well, i am flattered , thanks you're a thoughtful man, i really appreciated that. I am glad to see there are still good guys out there.

M.

 

[Trout]

Dang Marco I got it now. What you are feeling is "surging". Feels like you are running out of fuel then picks back up except in this case you're not running out of gas but running rich on one cylinder: Check that choke!

If you pull both carbs off you can weigh the floats to see if the bad side is heavier, a heavy float will cause a carb to run rich or flood. Float "height" on those carbs is 24 millimeters. If you don't know how to set the float tell me & I'll email a picture with instructions.

You can check the needle & seat to see if it is shutting off the fuel supply by leaving the bowl off & hooking the carb back up to the tank. Put a can or big jar under the carb to catch the fuel. Turn the petcock on and with the float hanging down gas will flow freely (careful some floats will drop too far and the needle fly's off) . GENTLY push up on the float and feel for resistance, the fuel should stop flowing. Bear in mind this a very rough check & pushing to hard on the float can cause damage to the needle & seat or float. Other than the Float-Needle-Seat I can't think of anything else that would cause it to run rich enough to foul a plug on a gravity fed carb.

Marco it looks like I'm needing to eat a little crow here. You already had the carb figured to be the bad guy and I had you re-checking the timing. I apologize if I caused you extra work it surely was not my intent. As the saying goes: The road to hell is paved with good intentions".

Peace. Trout. PS You better post what you find out!