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Intake Manifold Removal

Discussion in 'Stelvio Chat & Tech' started by Rafael, Jan 10, 2017.

  1. Rafael

    Rafael GT Reference

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    Well, I'm dealing with the results of poor guzzi dealer service. One of the intake manifold vacuum port threads was damaged by an over eager mechanic. The threads lasted about 4 years, then I resorted to a glob of rtv silicone over the evap vacuum line connection. Time to finally take care of it since I can no longer sync the TBs.

    I've used Time Sert thread repairs for valve covers with excellent results. The replacement part is $172, on top of that, the part descriptions are reversed graphically in the parts book, so left is called right and right is called left!! I don't want to deal with the goof up.

    So, anybody have a tips to remove an intake manifold without messing with the TBs? Does anybody know if the TB screws screws fastening it to the TB bracket will throw off the scared screw setting.

    Tolerances are tight not like the bad old days of carburetors.
     
  2. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    The sacred screw is for the one TB only. Removing the manifold will not impact that setting. I think if you get the rubber piece out, you should have an easy time getting the manifold off.
     
  3. Rafael

    Rafael GT Reference

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    Hey John, happy new year.

    The manifold is now loose but there's no room to wiggle it out. The rubber section is not flexible enough to allow the manifold to be twisted out. I'm was considering disconnecting the left side(SS side) TB from the retaining brackets top and bottom, by removing the 4 screws - 2 at top and 2 at bottom. The bottom bracket is configured to form the plate that the SS passes through. So, I'm concerned that by doing loosening the TB the relationship between the SS and TB will be changed if the bracket holes are bigger than the threaded holes in the TB.

    I'm not certain that this approach will give enough wiggle room either, since the TB is blocked in pretty tight on the airbox side. So, I'm thinking the airbox needs to come out and to loosen the whole TB bracket assembly to give me the wiggle room needed.

    Any shortcut ideas?
     
  4. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Rafael, Should be no need to disconnect the TB. Pull the TB assembly back. That should allow either the manifold or rubber piece to come off. I've pulled the TB assembly back off the rubber to have room doing the roller conversion.
     
  5. Rafael

    Rafael GT Reference

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    Thanks, Pulling the TB assembly back is where I'm headed, but I'm unfamiliar with this area. I took way too much apart when I greased My B11 swing arm. Did half the work on the second B11.

    So, I'm thinking of pulling the air box. Is this necessary? Do the intake tubes slide into the airbox? Is the TB anchored to the engine block the the Quota? I don't see a bolt in the parts diagram - not sure. Is the TB assembly just hanging in place?

    thanks
     
  6. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    No need to pull the airbox. There is enough give to do what is necessary. TB assembly is supported by the tubes to the manifolds, and the tubes to the airbox. There are no hard point attachments.
     
  7. WayneOrwig

    WayneOrwig GT Reference

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    The TBs are linked together well enough that it should not disturb the balance when moved.
    You should be able to simply loosen the rubber manifold piece and get it back far enough to pull out the metal manifold.
    Are you sure that is where the air leak is? Hard to imagine.
     
  8. Rafael

    Rafael GT Reference

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    Thanks John, I'm saved from a rabbit hole of my own making. I tried loosening the rubber portion to no avail, so I disconnected the right manifold from the head and that did it, gave me just enough room to get the left manifold out. thanks. I'm going to take the opportunity to clean out some of the carbon on the throttle plates.

    The gaskets to the head are interesting, common material but there is a thin bead of silicone around the perimeter. I'm sure they work well but they have to be replaced if disturbed unlike the gaskets on the carb tontis - guess the it's more critical on an FI system.

    Hi Wayne, No not sure if it was leaking but bike ran well so I don't think so. Made sure with a glob of silicone around the connector. The problem was that the vacuum screw was no longer holding and pieces of thread from the manifold were coming loose.

    Turns out that a 5mm long insert is all that the manifold can handle. Anything longer would be in the air stream.
     

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