• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Intermittent Firing on Single Cylinder

think i finally got my griso to run well after 4 months of ownership, apart from a broken pin on ecu, cleared all the water out of right coil terminals and sealed everthing electrical(esp. speed sensor) with windscreen sealant. will also create a better rain guard infront of ecu and block rain from horn surround area. Runs totally changed now smoother at low speed, far better acceleration, I have really had to sweat for this marriage
 
I guess what confuses me is the cytocycle picture. Once the elbow part is removed there is a male end on the oem lead. Does this unscrew? Or does it have to be cut? If it unscrews out of the lead i imagine the NGK will just screw in where the old one was. Simple as that or am I missing something. Just want to have everything plotted out mentally before I do something that doesn't need to be done. Thanks for the help.
 
grimace said:
I guess what confuses me is the cytocycle picture. Once the elbow part is removed there is a male end on the oem lead. Does this unscrew? Or does it have to be cut? If it unscrews out of the lead i imagine the NGK will just screw in where the old one was. Simple as that or am I missing something. Just want to have everything plotted out mentally before I do something that doesn't need to be done. Thanks for the help.

I just cut the end off the factory cable and screwed it into the plug.. it was actually pretty solid after doing that.
 
i did this yesterday. Cut the elbow off and screwed in new caps. Ran great. Next question is how well do these caps come off. Do I pull on the leads or get some sort of tweezer device next time I need to pull the spark plug? I'm thinking about getting that set of ngk to replace everything at next valve adjust.
 
Don't pull on the wires to remove. The factory released an "official bulletin" showing how to push them up through the drain hole in the head with a screw driver or eq. Some have even put a string or zip-tie on the cap to remove.
I stock the plug cap for anyone in a pinch, contact me direct e-mail; Todd at GuzziTech.com
 
OK, can anyone update us on this? Looks like the SB05E cap at about $3 each is the way to go. The X4K wire/cap set looks good but seems hard to get and may have some other issues. Anyone get/have the X4K sets?
 
You dont have to stupidly yank on the wires to have problems with these. Mine have gone out twice on the NTX and the wires have not beeen pulled. Ny-ties were fastened to the boot rubbers.
 
David, if you are going to use SB05E caps on your Stelvio you will probably need to replace the LH HT lead as well. The stock leads are usually a tiny bit too short to use with the NGK caps. Buy a couple of feet of copper core HT lead and just cut a new one an inch or two longer. Excess can be tucked up under the 'Wing'.

Pete
 
Back
Top