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Jackal low throttle problems

D

DINO

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Grover Beach, CA
Hi All
still working on backfire/misfire problems with low throttle applications on my 2000 Jackal. Took it to Bobby at Motoparadiso in SB. Put it on the diagnostics--fault on air sensor, and he wanted to replace the TPS. With both replaced, still backfiring with the throttle just barely cracked open, maybe even alittle worse now, as letting off the throttle and slowing down, its backfiring now too. After replacing parts getting a fault on the right fuel injector. Pulled the right plug and its fouled a dirty red. Bike runs fine with the throttle opened up, but partially opened in any gear I can feel it backfiring and pinging/knocking.
Any ideas? Running some fuel injector cleaner and octane boost through the bike in hopes of cleaning up the right fuel injector.
DINO
 
Dirty injectors are a root cause for running issues. Pull them and send to RC Engineering in Torrance, CA for cleaning and flow testing. Cost should be <$100. Injector cleaner likely won't help. There are zero air/intake leaks, correct? Check the rubber intake boots by pulling them to inspect of you see any external cracks.
 
RC does a good job on injectors. If re-conditioning the injectors doesn't help, it may be a defective ECU. They are rare, but it can happen. After checking everything else on a high mileage Jackal (150K or more) it did turn out to be the ECU.
 
Ok thanks for the advice, will do. Pulled the injectors this weekend, on thier way to RC Engineering. I checked the boots, they look fine...looks like some cracks are starting to appear on the outside edge beyond the clamps, just on the very edge. I tore my fuel lines trying to get them off the injectors so replaced them, and noticed all the vent lines are all cracked and dried out--the crankcase breather line, the clinder head breather lines, and the line from the air box to the frame. Replaced all of them...could these be the culprit(s)? for air leaks? Bobby of Motoparidiso removed the evap cannisters and the line for them is just laying on the engine...should I plug that line or it needs to be vented to atmosphere?
The throttle bodies came off as one asembly, will I have to get them re-synced? or should be ok? I have never torn the bike apart this far, its alittle scary! I sure hope it will run again!
 
If the evaporative canisters have been removed, you should plug the vacuum taps at the manifolds, or connect them with a single piece of hose. That could be a significant vacuum leak that would cause problems. However, since you didn't state if the vacuum lines to the canisters were plugged I can't really say if that is a contributing factor. Since the TBs have been removed, you should re-sync after assembly. It is doubtful the cracked oil/crankcase venting hoses contributed to your problem.
 
Ok put the bike back together, and it runs! Whew! The injectors went from "dripping" to "excellent". But...still same problem. Moto International recommended replacing plug caps, so ordered caps/wires from them (NGK set), and they recommended putting the bike on gas analyzer to see what CO levels are, and look for air leaks. Did plug intake manifold where evap cannisters were connected with screws. ordered new boots for TB to intake as well, will call around and take the bike to shop that does smog checks and check the exhaust for excess CO, which should show an air leak? Dan at Bits and Pieces synced the TB's, adjusted the valves, and said there is an air leak somewheres. he didnt see any cracks in the boots that went all the way through, but the surface is seeing some cracking and recommended replacing them, so boots should be here this week.
I thought the screws in place where the evap cannisters connected, might be a source of air leakage; I sprayed them with starting fluid with the bike running, and the idle didnt change, so I think they are tight enough. Not sure if i should try putting some kind of heat resisitant sealant on them too.....
 
No need to put heat resistant sealant on the screws. Besides, you need to remove them to sync the TBs. If you can find an aluminum or copper washer of the correct size, that wouldn't hurt. If you still have the taps originally installed, they can be capped by a BMW part. It is a rubber cap that fits the nipple and is part number 13 54 7 694 924.
 
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