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Lambda Sensor Failure?

Bike runs fine in, I think, Open Loop (off the ECU maps without Lambda sensor input). Seems smoother. Haven't done a fuel economy run but easy enough to put back to standard.

Point being, you could disable Lambda :)

Don't forget Ray1150 point above :)
 
Were the symptoms (resolved by the RPM sensor) randomly intermittent? That is to say no connection to weather, distance traveled, low or high RPM etc?

Cheers
Walter
 
Yes went from petering out to running just fine on the way to Haywards to get the diagnosis.
No logic or common link to the behaviour of the bike, first time it happened was in heavy rain so I immediately connected the two but after that it just kept happening when/where ever.
 
Thank you very much for the info. I recently changed my O2 sensors, and my 2012 Norge ran perfectly for about 350 Kms.
On a dry day, and for no apparent reason, it sputtered and mis-fired for about 200 meters, then ran fine. I have since put on about another 300 kms with no further issues. Your advice has me suspecting an intermittent RPM sensor, I will look into it further.

Cheers
Walter
 
could the fault be with one of the injectors? my mates stelvio had similar symptoms, was cured by replacing one of the injectors.
 
Hell all, what was the outcome of this problem as I'm having the exact same thing.
Ive tried new plugs. HT leads, NGK ends, fuel injectors. Ive tried 3 different maps, one with the Lambda disabled, all run the same.
Ive had the bike completely apart, checked and cleaned every plug, fuse and relay.....still the same, un-ridable!!
I'm just about at my wits end......
 
If you think it's spark, just check it. Hook up a timing light & pull the trigger when it acts up. Wiggle the phase sensor wire and see if it cuts out or gets better. It's right in front of L/H cyl w/heavy black wire, kinda next to the oil sender. Use a map w/O-2 off.
 
I have tried a map that doesn't use the Lambda, still the same.
I have ran the bike with another spark plug attached to the ht lead, sparks well.
I was thinking of the phase sensor, but wouldn't that make it run bad at all rpm? above 5k rpm it runs perfect.
I have tried wiggling everything while its running but nothing I do makes any difference at all :-/
 
You can check the phase sensor. Disconnect it from the harness. The sensor should read 680 ohms +/- 10% at 20 degrees C. Usually the phase sensor is good, or it is not. If not you shouldn't run at all. Spark at atmospheric pressure can be mis-leading. As pressure increases, higher voltage is required to make the spark jump. Were the injectors you tried new or used?
 
Ok cool, yeah I was looking for the values of all the sensors so I could go through and check them all.
The injectors are brand new.
When I disconnect the left hand injector plug, it makes barely any difference in the running, disconnecting the right cuts the engine at idle.
Do you know of anywhere that has a list of all the ohms values for the sensors and coils?
 
Scottv8 said:
Ok cool, yeah I was looking for the values of all the sensors so I could go through and check them all.
The injectors are brand new.
When I disconnect the left hand injector plug, it makes barely any difference in the running, disconnecting the right cuts the engine at idle.
Do you know of anywhere that has a list of all the ohms values for the sensors and coils?
Click to expand...

The workshop manual has many of the values, as does the manual for the P8 ECU system. The sensors have remained pretty much the same since Guzzi started with FI. You can find these manuals in the downloads section.

Now your added bit of information is interesting. Bike running doesn't noticeable change when the left injector plug is disconnected. This makes me think there is an issue with the left side control. Since the only not common control for the injectors is the ECU signaling the left injector to fire I'd look real close at an ECU issue. Have you carefully inspector the connectors to the ECU? I'd also try to source a loaner ECU just to eliminate or confirm that component. Then again it could be an issue with the LH coil. Have you removed the injectors and performed a spray pattern test?
 
I am collecting all the values I can find and will start testing sensors, coils etc on Monday.
Yes I have tested the injectors, both spray the same.
I have someone that has an ecu which I'm hoping to get hold of tomorrow, at least that will eliminate that if nothing else.
I did find come corrosion on 3 of the ecu pins when I took the plugs off, which I was sure was the problem, but after cleaning, most annoyingly, it didn't make a difference.
Failing everything else, I have a spare set of head gaskets, so might whip the LH head off and have a look in there, something else to cross of the 'checked' list.
 
Yeah that son my list of things to do......gonna be a busy Monday :).
Its no great deal to take the head off though, I got spare gaskets, its only 10 minute job as the bike is so stripped down anyway.
 
Scottv8 said:
Yeah that son my list of things to do......gonna be a busy Monday :).
Its no great deal to take the head off though, I got spare gaskets, its only 10 minute job as the bike is so stripped down anyway.
Click to expand...

The compression and leak down testing will tell you more than a visual inspection. Do you have a rotational torque gauge to put the heads back on if you remove them?
 
Ok cool, will do those if all else fails, will leave the heads on.
Aint got me one of them there gauges, got a torque wrench.
 
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