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Leaky rear main seal

Rafael

GT Reference
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
1,096
Location
San Leandro, CA
Hello All,

It's time for the winter projects! My buddy and I bought the wheel chock from Harbor Freight for a tear down of the Quota as recommended on a previous posting. And now -the questions start.

When I split the trans from the engine, instead of finding a leaky bearing seal, I found that the culprit to be the main bearing gasket. The case plug and the breather tube areas look fairly dry. I have the tool for extracting the main bearing... I plan on draining the engine and tilting it up so the crank is on the vertical axis.

The shop manual recommends shop tools 12 91 20 00 Flange Assembly Tool and 14 92 71 00 Seal Tool for the installation. Are these necessary? I don't think gasket glue is necessary. Any tips?

thanks, Rafael
 
To remove the rear main carrier I use a hook type pry bar. Do not use constant pressure, but several "shocks" around the perimeter. Be careful with the force applied, it can damage the flange. I've always been able to get them off that way. If it doesn't loosen right away, use the round end of the pry bar (in a bolt hole) to rotate the flange to break any "seal". You may or may not notice, but it probably isn't the gasket that is leaking. The two bottom bolt holes go through to the sump. Clean the bolt holes well and the bolts you will put in these holes with solvent so there is no trace of oil. Use generous amounts of Loctite 242 (the blue stuff as you may want to remove them some day) for those two bolt locations. I've found that to be the usual suspect.
 
Man! you nailed it. :woohoo: I loosened the two bottom bolts and a couple of others and the bottom bolts were the only oil drenched bolts. Thanks! Removal is now moot, but I'm still curious. Are the factory tools listed above are required for installation of the main bearing-flange?

Unfortunately I missed the opportunity to Loctite these two bolts on my SP when I had the engine last summer. Oh well; hopefully they won't leak.
 
Rafael said:
Are the factory tools listed above are required for installation of the main bearing-flange?

Unfortunately I missed the opportunity to Loctite these two bolts on my SP when I had the engine last summer. Oh well; hopefully they won't leak.

Do you need the tools to install -- No.

As for the SP, it only seems to leak on the newer big block engines. The SP should be fine.
 
Well, I took the sump off in order to clean out the threads through the crankcase with denatured alcohol and to make sure that the Loctite didn't pour into the crankcase. Torqued the bolts; then waited a few days to check the small amount of Loctite on the end of a bolt that is visible from the inside of the crankcase. Found that it was still wet. What's up with that? Does Loctite need heat? I'm sure I swabbed off all the moisture before applying the Loctite. My garage is not heated and the Loctite tube was previously opened and on the shelf a year or two with the cap tight. Any ideas or suggestions?
 
Strange the loctite was still fluid. The 242 formulation I use does harden in a day or less. Still with the loctite in place, it should prevent the oil flow through the threads.
 
The loctite on the end of the bolt will stay liquid, it will harden in the threads. It's anaerobic, cures in absence of oxygen.
Some people have squeezed the air out of the bottle before capping it, thinking it will prevent it from hardening, only to end up with a sold block of loctite :blink:
 
baloches said:
The loctite on the end of the bolt will stay liquid, it will harden in the threads. It's anaerobic, cures in absence of oxygen.
Some people have squeezed the air out of the bottle before capping it, thinking it will prevent it from hardening, only to end up with a sold block of loctite :blink:

Nice to know, Thanks.
 
Thanks-it makes sense, after thinking about it, that curing would be anaerobic. In the mean time I check the product technical data sheet, it also notes a storage temperature between 8 °C to 21 °C. So my Loctite will come inside for the winter.
 
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