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LeMans III Charging System Problems

Could be a problem in the wiring somewhere if all the components check out.

1.When you turn on the ignition without engaging the starter there should be a magnetic field at the rotor. If you place an allen wrench at the rotor bolt you should be able to detect the field. Turn the ignition off and the field should be off as well. This means the rotor is working properly. You may have to run a direct 12volts to the positive terminal of the rotor, the brush with the wire going to it. If all the tests are ok with the bypass 12 volts but fail when removed, the problem is in the source voltage, wiring if the regulator is functional.

If you’re getting the field the next 2.check would be ac voltage from the 3 yellow wires with the engine running faster than idle. This would mean the stator is working. Be sure to set the vom on ac.

http://s4.postimage.org/ncaomy7y2/alternator1.jpg

Possibly as high as around 20 volts if I recall correctly but certainly above 13.


3.If your not getting 13-14 plus volts at the battery with the engine above idle the rectifiers are not grounded, or shorted in the wiring.


See as an example

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... ulator.mp4


Base voltage from the battery is 12.29 volts shown in the first 20 seconds of the video. When the alternator is connected, voltage immediately jumps to over 13 volts, reading as high as 13.80 which is correct for an alternator at high rpms. You can see (hear) that voltage varies directly with increasing rpms.
 
Finally got it sorted out. After putting in the new alternator rotor (which it definitely needed), it needed to have the alternator polarized/flashed. Touched one end of an alligator clip to the positive side of the battery and the other to the DF terminal on the alternator and let some little sparks fly. Now it works as it should. :D
 
Jon, glad to hear you are back on the road again. With school ending not too long from now & with the kids getting a bit older, hope to see you on the road some time this summer. Oh, & is Guzziology invaluable, or what? That said, like I said earlier, with the Bosch charging system it's just so much more likely to be the rotor than anything else. Consider getting a voltmeter like I did for my T3, mentioned in my earlier post. That way you get some advance warning so you can pull the headlight bulb & get a whole lot further before you are walking, plus you have peace of mind knowing the thing is working as long as the voltmeter shows good charging above 3000-3500 rpm or so. As I recall, not that expensive or difficult to mount, either.
 
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