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Level Lift of Audace for oil change

scooter2525

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
5
Location
FL
Hey guys, recently picked up a Audace. Love the bike! It's at the mileage for a oil change. The book says to have the bike level in order to check it. I got a bike lift at Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html) however when I try to jack up on the frame, the bike seems to tilt toward the back. Is there a good center of gravity point to lift from?

Thanks.
 
Hey guys, recently picked up a Audace. Love the bike! It's at the mileage for a oil change. The book says to have the bike level in order to check it. I got a bike lift at Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html) however when I try to jack up on the frame, the bike seems to tilt toward the back. Is there a good center of gravity point to lift from?

Thanks.
Hi

I use an almost identical one for lifting my Audace. Make sure you put the lift as far back as possible under the frame and that it supports both left and right frame rails. There is a small loop/tube there somewhere on the gear shifter side of the frame and I put one of the legs of the lift under that. Even then it's marginal. The front wheel will come up quite some way before the back follows it - Be brave and keep going. It WILL lift. Once airborne it is pretty stable and I've had no issues. One thing to watch out for is that you don't have any luggage or rack on the bike. I bought one for mine and it shifted the C-of-G back too far and the back wouldn't come up at all

Just as follow up, I always drain and refill the oil with the bike on the ground. You only need to have it level for checking oil after filling (although it helps with draining the last bits of oil as well). You can do this simply by sitting on the bike (or just raising it to the vertical with the lift, keeping both wheels on the ground).

Lots of threads on here about the importance of not overfilling the level as the engine will "burp" it all into the air filter box. Most observers say no more than 3L or half way up the dipstick - never to the max. Remember you cannot drain it all as some sits in the oil cooler.
 
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Hi

I use an almost identical one for lifting my Audace. Make sure you put the lift as far back as possible under the frame and that it supports both left and right frame rails. There is a small loop/tube there somewhere on the gear shifter side of the frame and I put one of the legs of the lift under that. Even then it's marginal. The front wheel will come up quite some way before the back follows it - Be brave and keep going. It WILL lift. Once airborne it is pretty stable and I've had no issues. One thing to watch out for is that you don't have any luggage or rack on the bike. I bought one for mine and it shifted the C-of-G back too far and the back wouldn't come up at all

Just as follow up, I always drain and refill the oil with the bike on the ground. You only need to have it level for checking oil after filling (although it helps with draining the last bits of oil as well). You can do this simply by sitting on the bike (or just raising it to the vertical with the lift, keeping both wheels on the ground).

Lots of threads on here about the importance of not overfilling the level as the engine will "burp" it all into the air filter box. Most observers say no more than 3L or half way up the dipstick - never to the max. Remember you cannot drain it all as some sits in the oil cooler.
Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a go tomorrow. When you lift yours, is the frame (and more importantly for the oil change) the engine level?
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a go tomorrow. When you lift yours, is the frame (and more importantly for the oil change) the engine level?

Yes its level on the lift (with both wheels on the ground). If you actually lift it, it will be higher at the front
 
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I've got a Handy lift that's just like the HF configuration. With my Eldo, I put 2 strips of 3/4 plywood all the way back on the frame. It lifts the rear first and then the bike lifts level.
 
Of course you don't have to lift the bike in the air to check it. Just raise it until the side stand is no longer holding it up and the front wheel is almost off the ground.

To drain the oil, I prefer to use the side stand. Less chance of a mess.
 
I experience the same problem and decided to invest in the lift which allows to put bike up without any risks. The Big Blue lift works very well and if J clamps are placed on the bike frame cross bar, lifting is no problem at all. The main reason I purchased this rather expensive lift is to keep the bike off the floor during the winter period when bike sits in the garage.

 

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I experience the same problem and decided to invest in the lift which allows to put bike up without any risks. The Big Blue lift works very well and if J clamps are placed on the bike frame cross bar, lifting is no problem at all. The main reason I purchased this rather expensive lift is to keep the bike off the floor during the winter period when bike sits in the garage.


I looked at buying the same lift but a bit too pricey for me at the moment. Their wheel chock is a good piece of kit as well.
 
I have a Craftsman MC lift . Very similar to HF.
Place the lift as far back as possible under the frame.
Jack up the bike, the front will rise first.
Once it is up a modest distance attach a ratchet strap to each side of the front of the bike to the lift and tighten them down.
Now jack up the bike higher and the rear of the bike will lift.

I just changed my rear tire and this worked great.

31901952 2212630728761943 8264860457374842880 n
 
I have a Craftsman MC lift . Very similar to HF.
Place the lift as far back as possible under the frame.
Jack up the bike, the front will rise first.
Once it is up a modest distance attach a ratchet strap to each side of the front of the bike to the lift and tighten them down.
Now jack up the bike higher and the rear of the bike will lift.

I just changed my rear tire and this worked great.

View attachment 14760
I have the Craftsman also. I notice you have a rack fitted, did that upset the balance for you? With Audace and a rack fitted, I could not get the back wheel to rise, is this the reason for suggesting the front wheel strap
 
I have the Craftsman also. I notice you have a rack fitted, did that upset the balance for you? With Audace and a rack fitted, I could not get the back wheel to rise, is this the reason for suggesting the front wheel strap

The rack and box makes a bit of a difference but not much.
Leverage.
Once you are happy with the front end height and have secured the front on each side, leverage will raise the rear when more height is added via the lift.
 
I ended up getting the bike level. Lifted it enough to get some 2x4s under the back wheel. Then lowered the lift. Level enough.

The oil change was.... A disaster. The oil drain bolt fell into the funnel that I had aiming toward my catch pan. Oil everywhere on the floor. At least half of sump. Some advanced cat litter did the clean up job.

Open to suggestions to prevent a mess on the next change.
 
Sure. Read my last post.
shouldn't laugh but....

as per suggestions above drain on the side stand, ditch the funnel and use a large drain pan, even then oil goes all over the frame, runs everywhere and drops off within a large radius so put lots of paper down
 
The rack and box makes a bit of a difference but not much.
Leverage.
Once you are happy with the front end height and have secured the front on each side, leverage will raise the rear when more height is added via the lift.

Interesting - I see you also have engine bars fitted (and light weight exhaust), maybe these counter act the effect of the rack
 
Update. Got the valves adjusted. Do they normally come from the factory a little tight?

Also, it's pretty hot here in FL today. After I shut it down and parked it, I heard what sounded like a internal motor running. Is that a electric oil pump running?
 
Update. Got the valves adjusted. Do they normally come from the factory a little tight?

Also, it's pretty hot here in FL today. After I shut it down and parked it, I heard what sounded like a internal motor running. Is that a electric oil pump running?

Every bike is different. Make sure you adjust valves after leaving for at least 6-8 hours to cool down, the gaps get tighter as it cools down (see this post https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/not-your-usual-valve-clearance-question.17546/#post-133009 )

as for the noise it's the oil cooler fan (probably!!!)
 
Ha. Fair point. But seems some would be left in the corner until the bike is upright.

Well, if you think there might be some oil caught, then hold the bike upright after the majority of the oil has been drained into the container. Get someone else to do this if you think the oil might start spilling outside your container.

This ain't rocket science.
 
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