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LM IV - Electric Switch(?) Problems

A

azzivar

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
4
Last weekend I noticed that my left front signal stopped working. I replaced the bulb and it still didn't work. Upon inspection of the old bulb it seemed fine (filaments still connected, etc.). Then last night, I headed home from a friend (who's gonna weld up a jig for my MC lift for the LM), I noticed I had no high beams - and no indicator light when switched. When I stopped for gas, I also checked the rest of my lighting and found I had no brake lights either - tail lights were fine, but no brake lights. One of the gauge lights (voltmeter) is out now too.

Are these symptoms of the original switch gear? I've been told that basically that they're junk. Any comments or suggestions before I start tearing down the instrument panel and switch gear?

thanks,
Greg
 
Always a first point of call is the fuses. Check those.

Then check the switch block. WD40 is always a good thing to not go sparingly on.

Finally with so many light dropping out, I would think it is a common earth somewhere. So check connections particularly ones to the frame. Deciphering the wiring diagram might be needed.
 
All the wires on the original blocks are riveted through plastic so when something goes wrong there is a melt down. 25 years is way longer than the life expectancy of these things.

Bin it and fit aftermarket switch blocks.
 
As others have said the original wiring was not fantastic the day it was made and if you want a reliable bike it isn't a bad idea to bin it and rewire the bike with new fuse blocks, connectors etc. The wire loom that goes to the steering head will wear out as copper work hardens eventually. The guzzi had a rats nest of wires to accomodate the police and military models and guzzi had a nasty habit of multiple grounding points - there should be one. Also some wires could be a heavier gauge - like the light and starter.

The guzzi switch gear gets a lot of bad press. I have the 'Pretty Candy' lemans 1 switchgear that appears to be made of the softest plastic on earth. The thing is I actually like the ergonomics of them versus similar Japanese era ones so I persist.

To make them work I have done the following:

1. The early ones used a single copper wiper onto the handlebars to establish ground. The slightest corrosion and no continuity so I soldered a wire onto the wiper which then went to frame ground via a proper ring terminal.
2. Drilled a small hole on the underside of the switches to allow the occasional spray of contact cleaner/WD40. THis also allows any condensation to drain out.
3. Lights and horn run through a relay so the switches do not conduct any real current and if the switch fails you do not lose your lights.

Same applies pretty much to the later switchgear.

Ta,

ChrisR
 
I've had problems with various electrical items on my LMIV and after studying the schematic I found there is some silly ass wiring up on the steering head, especially related to the 4 way flashers.

Having said that, it sounds like you have problems with things that should be on completely separate circuits, which would make me look at grounds, or specifically at ground points on the head.

Also note that you need an electronic flasher on this model or you are very likely to have intermittent turn signals; flashing when the voltage is just right and not flashing other times.

Best thing to do is treat each problem as a separate one and work along the circuit path with a test light or meter. You may find a common cause, or you may find several different problems.
 
Update:

1) Brake lever issue - loose, unplugged wire - reconnected & holding in place with a tie-wrap!

2) Signal light - loose wiring somewhere - a little jiggling and it came on - not good, but workable; I'll probably tie-wrap the wires in place until I rewire.

3) High beams - DOH! user error! (how embarrassing is that?)

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions! I'm considering replacing the switch blocks, as reccommended. Can anyone suggest what works best? Honda, Yamamha, Kaw or Suzuki? I'm pretty close to a cycle salvage business, so I can probably get used stuff as I would imagine new gear from a dealer would be pretty pricey.

Greg
 
Before you go fishing for a salvage switch that may have been sitting out in the weather for who knows how long, suggest you try MI/MG Cycle/MG Classics, they may well have something quite good for less than you think.
 
azzivar said:
Can anyone suggest what works best? Honda, Yamamha, Kaw or Suzuki?
Click to expand...

Go the beemer blocks with the three-button indicators set-up...just for shits and giggles.
 
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