• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

LM IV forks

baloches

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Feb 9, 2009
Messages
136
Location
Mascouche, Quebec
I just picked up an 86 LM IV, and wonder how the air forks work. First, my crossover tube is leaking, so i'm not maintaining air pressure.
I assume the air is preload, how do I adjust damping? oil viscosity? In the manual I have they mention ATF 150cc's per leg. Can I change oil viscosity or level to have better damping?
I was under the impression these forks were stiff, is this correct? Mine sure aren't! Is this just because the lack of air pressure or should I also look at defective/inefficient damping components?

Cheers

Kai
 
On my LeMans there was no crossover: it had individual valves on each fork leg. You could do away with it & fit seperate valves so there are less joints (= potential leak points). If my memory is right I found about 20 to 25 psi was best.

I think the oil is only for lubrication & doesn't have any effect on damping.
 
Yes, the oil is only for lubrication. Baloches, if the forks aren't holding air it's probably cause the seals in the sealed damper units have blown out. Without knowing many years ago when i was very :mrgreen: i hooked mine up to the service station tyre pump and bingo, POP.

Considering the age of the bike i'd say it;s time to replace the sealed dampers with a set of FAC's, $400AUD. These like the std items are non adjustable. I have tried using thicker weight oil but could not feel any real difference.

There is room there to adjust spring preload, but you will have to take the whole thing apart. If you can take a photo of the top of the forks we will be able to tell if your dampers are still the original's.

These LM4's with the 16" wheels handle a bit different to others so don't be to concerned that it doesn't feel right, it's something you have to get used to. I have found that running high pressure, 40psi front and rear feels better and also i have found that mine does not like worn out of shape tyres. Make sure the steering damper is working properly. This is a must.

I have just replaced the dampers in mine because they were shot and the bars were shaking, and now i find that the steering head bearings are also shot so it is wise to check these as well.

Once you have taken care of all this you will have one of the best handling and stable motorcycles on the road.
 
Baloches, just realised you said the conector tube is leaking so i would be confident in saying you still have the original dampers in place :huh: . Time to spend some money and do some maintenance ;)
 
Thanks for the replies, been out of town past few days, I'll fix the tube and then see what happens. Thanks for the heads up on the damper, I just brought it home, not on the road yet. I'll be checking these items out.

Thanks
 
Back
Top