• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

LMIII - head gasket leak

KnowFear

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
103
I have put about 285 miles on my LMIII after an extensive refurbishing. Heads were stripped, new guides, etc. Everything assembled with new gaskets, seals o-rings etc. It runs beautifully.

Anyway, just after my last ride (@ 270 miles after new head gaskets), I noticed a light oil leak on both head gaskets just below the spark plug. This seemed like an opportune time to re-torque the heads. So I did that a couple of days ago. I just went for the post-retorque ride and the same spot on both head gaskets is still weeping oil.

Did I wait too long before re-torquing the heads, and now the head gaskets are ruined?

Thanks for your input.
Chris
 
A leak here is tricky. Confirm the oil is coming from between the head and cylinder. If it is in the spark plug area, it may be from the o-rings that seal the access plug for the top cylinder stud, or from the cylinder stud area. When I do a rebuild, I run the engine through one heat cycle, then re-torque. Then again at 500 miles. You may have waited a little to long. It is not the number of miles that has the impact, but the number of heat cycles. If in fact the leak is from between the cylinder and and head then it may be the gasket, or from the o-rings on the cylinder studs. Each side requires six o-rings on the studs. For the top and bottom studs, the o-ring goes between the bask gasket and cylinder, the other four are under the rocker tray. Some parts manual have an error and state that only five are used on each side, and the manuals aren't clear on their placement.
 
John - thanks for your reply.

The leak is definitely coming from the head gasket at the lower stud. I'm 99% sure that I did place all six o-rings correctly -- I was using the factory service manual.

I suppose fresh head gaskets is the next step? This time I will re-torque after the first heat cycle. Wish I had known to do that.
 
Back
Top