Low Fuel Level Indicator Adjustment

[pokeyjoe]

At some point, I may just cut the rod off the sensor, drill a hole in the flange that's left on the sensor, and mount it to the pump.

OK, I wasn't done and I did what I suggested above:

The sensor is tucked under the fuel filter. This keeps me from hitting it when I install the pump (important). When my light comes on now, I can get 4.7 gallons in the tank. I'm not sure what my "reserve" is at that point, but I do know its time to buy gas. Yeah...I'm done.

 

[Kev M]

Well done, thanks for pioneering, reporting, and including pics.

One question, any idea what the purpose of that rod was? Physical location of the sensor insome way?

 

[pokeyjoe]

There was nothing to mount the sensor to in its original position. The rod allowed MG to put the sensor above the limited area available.

 

[rbm]

Pokeyjoe,

Are your experiences with repositioning the fuel level sensor directly applicable to the older 2011 V7R with the original plastic tank? The fuel pump location is different with this tank than with the revised tank that you have, as you pointed out in the first post.

 

[pokeyjoe]

Pokeyjoe,

Are your experiences with repositioning the fuel level sensor directly applicable to the older 2011 V7R with the original plastic tank? The fuel pump location is different with this tank than with the revised tank that you have, as you pointed out in the first post.

I don't think so. I used to have a couple pictures of the older fuel pump assemblies, but I can't find them now. As I recall, though, the arrangement of the pump and sensor looked almost exactly the same. That being the case, you just need to figure out how to get the sensor closer to the bottom of the tank.

 

[francod123]

At some point, I may just cut the rod off the sensor, drill a hole in the flange that's left on the sensor, and mount it to the pump.

OK, I wasn't done and I did what I suggested above:

The sensor is tucked under the fuel filter. This keeps me from hitting it when I install the pump (important). When my light comes on now, I can get 4.7 gallons in the tank. I'm not sure what my "reserve" is at that point, but I do know its time to buy gas. Yeah...I'm done.

Hi,

I have my tank off to replace the fuel filter and to access the throttle body. While I'm at it, I think I want to do this mod you've done. I pretty much get everything you've done up to the last part. What exactly did you do to mount the sensor to the pump? I see that you screwed the sensor into where the hole for the rod was, but it looks like the sensor is somehow attached to the filter too? Am I seeing that correctly?

I'd like to get this done while I have the tank off and ordering the new metal filter. Thanks for any help. My email is francod123@gmail.com as well if you'd rather send me more detailed info there.

 

[francod123]

Ok, I think I got it. You just screwed a hole in flange of the sensor and then screwed it in to the hole of where the rod use to mount. What size bit did you use?

 

[francod123]

I decided not to mess with the sensor. It looks different than pokeyjoe's setup too: the rod seemed attached differently and angled so I left it alone. see pics.

 

[bdcfe]

.

 

[francod123]

I came to the same conclusion. The sender unit on our '13 seems different than Pokeyjoe's '12. I didn't feel like messing with it so I left well enough alone. If you search on here for previous threads, Kev M has a good system of using the odometer to let him know when to refuel. Basically take note of the odometer when the light comes on and start counting back. The light comes on so early that you need a system, or you'll end up tuning it out completely and will wind up pushing. It's like when you take a cab and you look over at the guy's dash and he has about 4 warning lights lit up. They've probably been on so long they're invisible. Well, that plus he doesn't give a crap either way. When I worked at dealerships we'd get old beaters traded in all the time with little black squares of electrical tape cut out to cover the ABS light, Check Engine, Airbag, etc.

Your bike has been apart for a long time now. When are you going to get it back on the road and give us a report on the fueling mods?

I know man tell me about it! The weather here in maryland broke so it's time to ride. Todd's exhaust should be delivered this week so once that's installed I'm all set. Putting the tank back on tonight (had to call it quits after a long evening in the garage putting the TB sleeves back on, resetting TPS and installing Fuel filter). I'm hoping to give some feedback next week sometime.

Even though it was grueling to do all of this, especially since I've never worked on a bike before, I'm glad I did because I feel like I'm much closer to knowing my bike inside and out.

 

[scudracer]

Here is a list of all-metal filters from Joe's MG_750 site:

Interchange with:
AC GF61*
BMW - 16 14 2 325 859
Fleetguard FF149
Fram G2*
Mahle KL145
Motocraft FG-2
Napa Gold 3032
Purolator - F20011*
Triumph - T1240850
Wix 33032

*Edit - these three filters appear to be plastic. It looks like the Mann MWK 44 may be added to the list as well (metal).

I ordered the Mahle from Amazon for $20.

WOW! I never expected a Cummins Filtration / Fleetguard filter would be able to fit. Fleetguard stuff is USUALLY overspecced for automotive/motorcycle applications.

 

[Godfrey]

I'm gonna call this project done for now. I did look at moving the sensor even lower in the tank, but I damaged it and had to buy a new one. I also looked at relocating the filter outside the tank, but there just isn't room. Here is the final configuration of the mod that adds half a gallon before the light comes on (I now add 4 gallons when the light comes on instead of 3.5):

At some point, I may just cut the rod off the sensor, drill a hole in the flange that's left on the sensor, and mount it to the pump.

Hmm. Your new placement reads low fuel just about when my stock setup on the 2017 V7III Racer does.

 

[Joseph McDermott]

Inspired by this discussion I modded my 2015 V7II Stone. I've moved the fuel filter under the frame after experiencing the fun of trying to get the assembly out of the tank with it included.



I'll need to replace the filter as it's experiencing the same swelling issue, having it outside the tank should make life easier when the replacement (UFI 31 760 00) arrives.


Moved the thermistor way down and used a tinned copper wire to make a mounting cage to protect it when going in and out of the tank.


I'm in Ireland and mostly commute so I'm looking for quite a small reserve as I'll never be far from a petrol station.

I used the opportunity to paint the underside of the tank as the original paint is light and it should keep corrosion at bay. Paint is drying so it will be tomorrow before I put the tank back on and fill it. We'll see what the changes make to reserve and if the mods play well with pressurized fuel lines.

 

[Joseph McDermott]

Update on mod:

Result of the lowered thermistor is I can now fill 18L from reserve where previously I was filling 14.8L. I have been able to fill the tank to the bottom of the fill hole (the level you are supposed to fill to max) 21.65L with a bike that still runs so it appears the tank (steel version 2015 V7 II Stone ABS) can hold 21.65L+. So looks like reserve has gone from about 6.85L (way too much in my opinion) to 3.65 (more than enough for me).

I should add I made a subsequent mod adding a hard pipe to support the filter, align the fuel line to the tank as it was originally and avoid any kinks (an issue as routing hoses gets bendy!). Took 8mm copper pipe filled it with mortar sand, plugged the ends with m6 screws and bent it into a S shape. Sand ensures pipe does not kink just make sure to clean it out thoroughly afterwards. I wrapped it in self amalgamating tape.

I would suggest leaving a rubber pipe on the injector side of the filter long enough to allow it to be pulled out for replacement by the right cylinder side, there is room for this without excessive bend and risk of kinking. An accessible fuel tap between the copper pipe and filter would actually allow the filter to be replaced without removing the tank or any other preparation which is convenient.

Bottom line fuel level mod is easy and effective, having the thermistor horizontal has not impaired it's function. Moving the filter is an optional extra with no huge benefits other than a small increase in tank capacity, easier insertion and removal of the fuel pump and easier access to the filter. Against that the filter hardly requires much attention so it's not a huge benefit to move it. It could be considered to detract from the looks of the bike but really you can't see it at all unless you peer between the cylinders up close so it's not really an issue. Perhaps temperature could be an issue with the externally mounted aluminum filter, time will tell.

Next project tuning fuel map, first re-draught of fueling and ignition tables loaded. Hope to see an improvement in fuel economy, it will take weeks to complete but I'll upload my results.

Copper pipe bent to shape and cleaned:


Wrapped:


Pipe to tank in original location

Routing:
UFI filter - still to go on.