Has anyone added this to the gas and oil in their V7? Any reason to or not to? Thanks
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Marvel Mystery Oil
- Thread starter Larry Vance
- Start date
I don't use it but have put it in my cylinders of my LM3 that is parked from 07. It is mostly ATF trans fluid, some swear by it.
Oil has a higher BTU then gas so from what I've read, you'll get upper cyl/valve lubrication but expect higher cyl temps from the hotter burn.
I have used that product for decades.
Steve is mistaken. It contains no ATF fluid. It’s principle active ingredients are 1,2-dichlorobenzine and 1,4-dichlorobenzine. The numbers refer to the position on the aromatic benzine ring, where the chlorine atoms are bound.
Benzine is an aromatic ring chemical compound with outstanding solvent properties, especially carbon.
It is excellent at removing sludge, varnish, and really nasty deposits within engines. It was originally developed for use in WWII radial engines. Radial engines develop a lot of deposits due to the nature of the cylinder layout in the engine.
I do not recommend nor have I used this as a fuel additive. There are far better choices, specifically
Gumout Multi System Tune Up with polyetheramine, a spectacular solvent that works fantastic in gasoline fuel.
You know the trade name for polyetheramine, it’s TECHRON. Yes, Chevron developed it.
I do recommend and have used MMO literally 1000’s of times, in the crankcase but not for running all the time. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS AS THE SOLVENT IS POWERFUL AND CAN REMOVE CRITICAL LUBRICATION FROM THE CYLINDER WALL WHILE THE ENGINE IS IN HARD OR HIGH REVOLUTION OPERATION.
I use it specifically for oil changes and first time cleaning in used motorcycles I have purchased and or worked on in my shop.
After riding the motorcycle to operating temperature, I use a giant feeding tube syringe and hose to suck out about 250-500cc of oil which I then replace with 250-500cc MMO. I then ride the bike gentle for about 5-10 miles. Then I drain the used oil and MMO fully from the crankcase and replace with fresh oil only.
This stuff cleans engine internals like nothing else I know of. It’s truly a miracle, hence its name.
In truth, the stuff is seriously carcinogenic and toxic so USE GLOVES and DO NOT breath in the fumes from your running engine. Also have a very well vented garage when you do use this. If you take basic precautions, you will be fine, however do not be cavalier with it! Benzene can hurt you badly!
I have also used this to completely clean intake manifolds overnight. You simply pour some into a squirt bottle and spritz it until wet all inside of the intake. Let it sit overnight and on the bottom in the morning, will be a puddle of black muck which I wipe up with a paper towel or towel and then finish with a final spray of carb/intake cleaner.
Case in point, the V-10 Centauro intake path is famous for getting massive carbon buildup. This stuff makes it like brand new, over night by using the spritz method above.
Hope this helps.
If used correctly, the stuff is amazing.
FWIW: In automotive engines with bronze valve guides, it will unstick any stuck lifter or valve, completely removing the need to rebuild a head, such as a Ford Focus engine for example. It will clean the head like new overnight.
ONE MORE CRITICAL THING ABOUT THIS.
DO NOT EVER ADD IT TO ANY MOTORCYCLE WITH A CRANKCASE AND TRANSMISSION THAT SHARE THE SAME OIL!!!!!
YOU WILL IRREVOCABLY RUIN THE CLUTCH PACK PLATES.
ONLY USE THIS IN THE CRANKCASE OF AN ENGINE THAT HAS ENGINE ONLY OIL IN IT AND THIS OIL IS NOT SHARED WITH THE TRANSMISSION.
Steve is mistaken. It contains no ATF fluid. It’s principle active ingredients are 1,2-dichlorobenzine and 1,4-dichlorobenzine. The numbers refer to the position on the aromatic benzine ring, where the chlorine atoms are bound.
Benzine is an aromatic ring chemical compound with outstanding solvent properties, especially carbon.
It is excellent at removing sludge, varnish, and really nasty deposits within engines. It was originally developed for use in WWII radial engines. Radial engines develop a lot of deposits due to the nature of the cylinder layout in the engine.
I do not recommend nor have I used this as a fuel additive. There are far better choices, specifically
Gumout Multi System Tune Up with polyetheramine, a spectacular solvent that works fantastic in gasoline fuel.
You know the trade name for polyetheramine, it’s TECHRON. Yes, Chevron developed it.
I do recommend and have used MMO literally 1000’s of times, in the crankcase but not for running all the time. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS AS THE SOLVENT IS POWERFUL AND CAN REMOVE CRITICAL LUBRICATION FROM THE CYLINDER WALL WHILE THE ENGINE IS IN HARD OR HIGH REVOLUTION OPERATION.
I use it specifically for oil changes and first time cleaning in used motorcycles I have purchased and or worked on in my shop.
After riding the motorcycle to operating temperature, I use a giant feeding tube syringe and hose to suck out about 250-500cc of oil which I then replace with 250-500cc MMO. I then ride the bike gentle for about 5-10 miles. Then I drain the used oil and MMO fully from the crankcase and replace with fresh oil only.
This stuff cleans engine internals like nothing else I know of. It’s truly a miracle, hence its name.
In truth, the stuff is seriously carcinogenic and toxic so USE GLOVES and DO NOT breath in the fumes from your running engine. Also have a very well vented garage when you do use this. If you take basic precautions, you will be fine, however do not be cavalier with it! Benzene can hurt you badly!
I have also used this to completely clean intake manifolds overnight. You simply pour some into a squirt bottle and spritz it until wet all inside of the intake. Let it sit overnight and on the bottom in the morning, will be a puddle of black muck which I wipe up with a paper towel or towel and then finish with a final spray of carb/intake cleaner.
Case in point, the V-10 Centauro intake path is famous for getting massive carbon buildup. This stuff makes it like brand new, over night by using the spritz method above.
Hope this helps.
If used correctly, the stuff is amazing.
FWIW: In automotive engines with bronze valve guides, it will unstick any stuck lifter or valve, completely removing the need to rebuild a head, such as a Ford Focus engine for example. It will clean the head like new overnight.
ONE MORE CRITICAL THING ABOUT THIS.
DO NOT EVER ADD IT TO ANY MOTORCYCLE WITH A CRANKCASE AND TRANSMISSION THAT SHARE THE SAME OIL!!!!!
YOU WILL IRREVOCABLY RUIN THE CLUTCH PACK PLATES.
ONLY USE THIS IN THE CRANKCASE OF AN ENGINE THAT HAS ENGINE ONLY OIL IN IT AND THIS OIL IS NOT SHARED WITH THE TRANSMISSION.
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WOW Scott, Something I didn't know, just going from what I've heard, not chemistry. You surprise me all the time!!
I worked in a shop that overhauled radial aircraft engines after I retired from my gov job. We broke in all of the engines with MMO. Good stuff.
kk
kk
To add to my previous post. If your running stock exhaust I would be concerned what burning MMO might do to your catalytic converters??
MMO won’t hurt catalytic converters.
EDIT: If used in correct ratios listed in the instructions on the bottle!
EDIT: If used in correct ratios listed in the instructions on the bottle!
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Good to know, I'll let my Model T Ford friends know that!
It’s funny. I don’t know if I ever told this but 30+ years ago, I owned an infusion pharmacy. We provided IV medications for HIV and cancer patients in the homecare setting.
There is a saying in pharmacy. “Do you know what the difference between a medicine and a poison is? The dosage!”
If you read online and search hard, you will find a few MMO horror stories. Invariably they are because the user DID NOT READ the instructions on how you should use the product.
Almost always. They simply assumed that you dumped the whole bottle in!
Please remember that this is a solvent. It’s purpose is to effect dissolving of bad nasty carbon crud from the internal surfaces of your engine and suspend it in the oil solution for draining.
That’s how I treat this product.
The last thing I want is dissolved crud being sent through every gallery and passageway in my engine over and over again. I want to get it dissolved into suspension as rapidly as possible and then immediately remove all of it from my motor as completely as possible.
Also, I should clarify that although I love to use this product in the first service of an older motorcycle that I acquire, I do not add it before I pull the oil belly pan for a physical cleaning first!
I have pulled many a pan with literally a half inch of sediment and crud in the bottom of the pan. MMO will quickly soften and loosen up this muck which will then get sucked up and pushed through the oil filter and the engine.
I don’t want that so I physically clean the pan internals and replace them before doing a cleaning cycle with MMO.
I want the product to clean the surfaces inside the engine without blasting the muck from the bottom of the oil pan all over.
YMMV.
There is a saying in pharmacy. “Do you know what the difference between a medicine and a poison is? The dosage!”
If you read online and search hard, you will find a few MMO horror stories. Invariably they are because the user DID NOT READ the instructions on how you should use the product.
Almost always. They simply assumed that you dumped the whole bottle in!
Please remember that this is a solvent. It’s purpose is to effect dissolving of bad nasty carbon crud from the internal surfaces of your engine and suspend it in the oil solution for draining.
That’s how I treat this product.
The last thing I want is dissolved crud being sent through every gallery and passageway in my engine over and over again. I want to get it dissolved into suspension as rapidly as possible and then immediately remove all of it from my motor as completely as possible.
Also, I should clarify that although I love to use this product in the first service of an older motorcycle that I acquire, I do not add it before I pull the oil belly pan for a physical cleaning first!
I have pulled many a pan with literally a half inch of sediment and crud in the bottom of the pan. MMO will quickly soften and loosen up this muck which will then get sucked up and pushed through the oil filter and the engine.
I don’t want that so I physically clean the pan internals and replace them before doing a cleaning cycle with MMO.
I want the product to clean the surfaces inside the engine without blasting the muck from the bottom of the oil pan all over.
YMMV.
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Scott, The model T guys add it to the fuel tank. It helps to keep valves and valve stems clean is what they tell me.
Hi John.
Doesn’t surprise me a bit. Yes, I know lots of people who do add it to their fuel for just that reason and they tell me it works. It was developed for the oil though. I think the fuel addition came about later.
I just find polyetheramine (PEA) works much better in my experience.
The best concentration of that chemical for the price, is Gumout Multi System Tune Up. I cannot recommend this product more. It has served me very well for many years.
Doesn’t surprise me a bit. Yes, I know lots of people who do add it to their fuel for just that reason and they tell me it works. It was developed for the oil though. I think the fuel addition came about later.
I just find polyetheramine (PEA) works much better in my experience.
The best concentration of that chemical for the price, is Gumout Multi System Tune Up. I cannot recommend this product more. It has served me very well for many years.
Thanks for that Scott. I've been looking for a product with polyetheramine in Canada. Up until now I've been buying Techron when I am in the USA.
You are The Chemical King.
You are The Chemical King.
Yeah... I bet secretly he's Walter White, how else can ya own so many bikes without a wealthy cougar...
Blessed and grateful.