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Memjet Module

Rapid bike is not a bandaid at all but the equivalent of PCIII made by an Italian company. I think it is a little better than the PCIII from what I have heard but no personal experience.
Anyway, the PCV with the Autotune feature is more advanced.
 
Ben, again, do a search here on Rapidbike, you'll find all you need. Old news.
In a nutshell, it's a product that was reverse-engineered from Dynojet's PC. I set up to be a dealer for them back in '06, but I dropped them shortly thereafter as they weren't able to deliver any product here in the U.S., - as well they changed Importer several times in as many years. They sold a clone of Dynojet's 15RC "02-controller" that they billed as working on the 5AM, which didn't work (as per a few years ago)... perhaps they figured out by now, but Dynojet themselves have not yet. I think there has been one or two on the Forum here that have purchased one, with fair results. Pete Roper bought one, never got it, and the company has been unresponsive ever since. Caveat emptor.
 
GT-Rx said:
Ben, again, do a search here on Rapidbike, you'll find all you need. Old news.
In a nutshell, it's a product that was reverse-engineered from Dynojet's PC. I set up to be a dealer for them back in '06, but I dropped them shortly thereafter as they weren't able to deliver any product here in the U.S., - as well they changed Importer several times in as many years. They sold a clone of Dynojet's 15RC "02-controller" that they billed as working on the 5AM, which didn't work (as per a few years ago)... perhaps they figured out by now, but Dynojet themselves have not yet. I think there has been one or two on the Forum here that have purchased one, with fair results. Pete Roper bought one, never got it, and the company has been unresponsive ever since. Caveat emptor.

Quite right. They, Rapidbike USA, took $700 or so from me. Didn't send anything. I contacted them once and they said there had been a problem getting the system to work (?Why were they advertising it as ready to go then?) but that they would send it when it had been sorted. They never did. When I contacted them again in a series of emails they either didn't respond or, when I finally got the shits, they sent me a rude email saying that they had sent me a cheque and when was I going to cash it? Needless to say there was no cheque and since i had paid with a credit card why did they need to send a cheque? A simple transaction reversal would of sorted the problem immediately.

Crooks and charlatans. Avoid like the plague. Needless to say I can't comment on whether their system works as I never recieved it. They're based in New York, I'm tempted to drop in while I'm there and put a turd through their letter box!!!! :evil:

Pete
 
GT-Rx said:
... but I dropped them shortly thereafter as they weren't able to deliver any product here in the U.S....

Well, a fellow European colleague put it right: They are Italians : "Do not worry, no problem, it will be ok!" all the time...
Most of the problems I read about Guzzis come from this same way of manipulating life...
It is a miracle Guzzi is still open for business...
 
guzziben47 said:
One thing I don't get about any of the bandaids is how they can work without disconnecting the Lamda input. I guess the input from the air temp sensor must override the input from the 02 sensor or the Memjet would not work. Regardless, that is another advantage I see to getting the re-flash. My understanding is the reflash involves disconnecting or otherwise disabling the input from the 02 sensor, and it makes sense that further modifications would work better without having that in there. If that is correct, then a reflash alone should work better than a Fatduc or a Memjet.

I saw a comparison of the full monty with the fatduc somewhere on this forum, can anyone say, based on their experience, how the re-flash alone compares with the fatduc or the memjet (or even the Rapid Bike)?

I didn't mean to get side tracked with the Rapidbike thing. It sounds like nobody has actually compared the Re-Flash alone to the Memjet or the Fatduc, but the expectation is the Re-Flash should work even better than either the Memjet or the Fatduc.

I'll likely give the Re-Flash a try over the winter....
 
guzziben47 said:
It sounds like nobody has actually compared the Re-Flash alone to the Memjet or the Fatduc, but the expectation is the Re-Flash should work even better than either the Memjet or the Fatduc..

This is a pretty usefull remark. :roll:
I would love to see a comparative dyno chart with torque & AFR curves for the same bike with memjet/fatduc/reflash/reflash&PCV/reflash&PCV&Autotune add-ons.
It would be even greater to have roll on response dyno charts of some kind with each add-on.

Todd, would it be too big a hassle to give us all these on the same bike/same day and leave no one unconvinced ?
It would be nice mecha data too!
 
Is the Memjet module similar to this? www.boosterplug.com

I know a few people on the Tiger 1050.com forum have fitted it and think its OK. However I've never thought that my Tiger ran bad enough to need fitting anything like that, the same with my Stelvio it runs fine, although I can't wait to see how it feels when I have the Quill end can fited.
 
Just out of curiosity what is considered to be the ideal Air Fuel Ratio on a Stelvio? I've been reading this thread over and over but I have to admit I find difficulty understanding all this fuel injection mullarkey. At times I wonder if it would have made for a simpler life if we all rode around on old four stroke singles with an Amal monobloc carb :)
 
The Booster Plug looks like yet another way of doing it. The Memjet is similar.

I wouldn't bother with any of this if your are already happy with the bike the way it runs now.

And none of this has anything to do - in my mind - with convincing anyone to buy one thing or another.

If you want to see a dyno chart, there is one for the Memjet and the Stelvio at the website for Memjet Modules.

I'm happy with just the Memjet for now, but I'm going to try the Fatduc too, just out of curiosity. Then I'll get the re-flash and answer my own question....
 
guzziben47 said:
If you want to see a dyno chart, there is one for the Memjet and the Stelvio at the website for Memjet Modules.
Max power (100% throttle) Dyno runs with no air/fuel data aren't very helpful in the real world, and Dyno charts like that at 100% throttle can be found with a simple slip-on muffler. Not knocking it mind you...

I'm happy with just the Memjet for now, but I'm going to try the Fatduc too, just out of curiosity. Then I'll get the re-flash and answer my own question....
But why waste $300+ to experiment? However, if you have it to spend, it's the only way. I've invested 1,000's of hours and $'s, and not many listen. :S
 
I'm doing it because I want to learn more about how all this works. You are right, it is a waste of money to try all these different things (actually, you have no idea; I haven't even got the fatduc in the mail yet and I've already convinced myself it isn't as good as what I already have), but I have learned a lot about this topic by asking a lot of questions. And that makes me happy.

Also, I don't want to send you my ECU until the winter, so I I have time to kill until them. And I'd like to have the knowledge to use the PC to it's full potential by the time it gets here, so that's another reason to try to educate myself. Plus, like I said; I like learning more about this.

But I'm not suggesting anyone else do what I'm doing.

If there are people who are intersted in learning more, there is a good explanation of how all this works at the website for the Booster Plug (Disclaimer: I'm not suggesting anyone should buy a Booster Plug; I have no intentions of buying a Booster Plug; the sole reason for checking out the website would be to learn more about this topic).

Peace.
 
Looking at the dyno printout for the Quill exhaust that 'notasweetman' had fitted, the AFR looks to go from 1:14 ish down to 1:13.2, is this too rich? I assume the run was on full throttle.
 
Please look at the ideal stoichiometric graph some posts ago.
This is about petrol fuel internal combustion engines in general.

In theory, when power is aimed for, anything richer than 12.6 is too rich.

For some applications even richer AFR is chosen to keep the combustion cahmber / exhaust valves & gases cool enough not to melt things down.
Some turbo engines work in 10.5 on heavy throttle open loop operation.
 
One thing I wonder about these products is how they are affected by changes in the air temperature. I think, based on what I've been able to figure out so far, you should turn down the resistance when the weather gets hot. That's counter intuitive because you would think you need the affect more when its hot, but I think the reason is because the Memjet or the Fatduc affects the ECU more when it's hot. So if you have the Memjet or the Fatduc set one way when it's cool out, and you leave it that way when it gets really hot, you will be running richer than you want to. Anyway, I'm still working on understanding all this, so I'll update when I figure this out more.

As I keep saying, it is better to deal with the issue directly by reprogramming the ECU. The more I look into it the more I see how unbelievably complicated it would be to completely reprogram the ECU. And I expect that's the reason you need Todd's re-flash to get you part of the way there, and the PC V to get you closer to where you want to be. Right now I'm trying to see if I can understand how a person would go about changing a fuel map on their own. I think you can do that once you have the full monty, but I don't have a good feel yet for exactly how you would do that. So I'm trying to figure out that too....
 
fatal said:
Looking at the dyno printout for the Quill exhaust that 'notasweetman' had fitted, the AFR looks to go from 1:14 ish down to 1:13.2, is this too rich? I assume the run was on full throttle.
14.0:1 is lean for these engines, and 13.2 at wide-open throttle is good, however it should be a flat line, not a bell curve.

guzziben47 said:
One thing I wonder about these products is how they are affected by changes in the air temperature.
As I keep saying, it is better to deal with the issue directly by reprogramming the ECU. The more I look into it the more I see how unbelievably complicated it would be to completely reprogram the ECU. So I'm trying to figure out that too....
No changes in fueling (on the ECU) on the 8V motor relating to air temp, only revisions in timing when the OAT gets cold. The older ECUs used to richen the mixture when the air temps climbed.
No need to re-invent the wheel here Ben, it's all been talked about ad nauseam over the years, and I have most all of the answers.
 
Oh, well then maybe you don't need to make an adjustment when the outside weather changes. I didn't realize the 8V motors worked that way.

Sorry about dragging you through all this; it is all new to me.

Hey, try being a teacher and teaching the same thing over and over again every semester!!!
 
GT-Rx said:
fatal said:
Looking at the dyno printout for the Quill exhaust that 'notasweetman' had fitted, the AFR looks to go from 1:14 ish down to 1:13.2, is this too rich? I assume the run was on full throttle.
14.0:1 is lean for these engines, and 13.2 at wide-open throttle is good, however it should be a flat line, not a bell curve.

guzziben47 said:
One thing I wonder about these products is how they are affected by changes in the air temperature.
As I keep saying, it is better to deal with the issue directly by reprogramming the ECU. The more I look into it the more I see how unbelievably complicated it would be to completely reprogram the ECU. So I'm trying to figure out that too....
No changes in fueling (on the ECU) on the 8V motor relating to air temp, only revisions in timing when the OAT gets cold. The older ECUs used to richen the mixture when the air temps climbed.
No need to re-invent the wheel here Ben, it's all been talked about ad nauseam over the years, and I have most all of the answers.

Is having the AFR in a 'bell curve' likely to be detrimental. I know that Notasweetman is very happy with the way his bike is running. I am due to have a Quill fitted in a few weeks, I'm wondering if it may be beneficial in any way to fit a K&N airfilter.
Thanks, fatal.
 
fatal said:
Is having the AFR in a 'bell curve' likely to be detrimental. I know that Notasweetman is very happy with the way his bike is running. I am due to have a Quill fitted in a few weeks, I'm wondering if it may be beneficial in any way to fit a K&N airfilter.
Detrimental only if/when is strays from the targeted AFR. A flat-lined AFR is ideal. It should only deviate if so programmed, but at wide-open throttle, it should not. A K&N or equal air filter in the stock box will do nothing. If you modify the air box lid, some sort of fueling revision is mandatory as the low/mid throttle is critically lean as delivered, and allowing more air in would only make things worse.
Simple modifications (slip-on muffler) will feel beneficial, until you ride one that has the fueling corrected.
 
GT-Rx said:
No changes in fueling (on the ECU) on the 8V motor relating to air temp, only revisions in timing when the OAT gets cold. The older ECUs used to richen the mixture when the air temps climbed.
No need to re-invent the wheel here Ben, it's all been talked about ad nauseam over the years, and I have most all of the answers.

You lost me. If the air temp sensor doesn't cause the ECU to enrichen the mix or change to a different map, then the Memjet must not be changing anything but the timing. I though the air temp sensor caused the ECU to lean the mix when its hot and enrichen it when it's cold.

Anyway, I notice on one day I'll have the Memjet at 3 and it will help, but on another day I'll need to move it to 4 to make it have the desired effect. Who knows why?
 
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