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Monoshock removal

Discussion in 'BNS12 Reference Topics/Recalls' started by GT-Rx®, Feb 15, 2010.

  1. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member

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    How-to for rear shock removal on a Breva 1100, Norge or Sport 1200. Secure/support bike for removal;

    1. Turn the adjuster fully in (clockwise), and remove the adjuster knob. Careful of the spring and ball as arrowed below:

    BNS-Mono-Remove1.jpg

    2. After securing the bike (center stand or lift), use a wedge shaped board or eq. to take some of the pressure off the shock linkage.

    BNS-Mono-Remove2.jpg

    3. Bottom shock linkage removal. Yellow arrow first, swing linkage (fork - red arrow)) out of the way, and remove the bottom shock bolt (green arrow).

    BNS-Mono-Remove3.jpg

    4. Next remove the top shock bolt below:

    BNS-Mono-Remove4.jpg

    5. Align the shock preload adjuster to match the 'V' of the swing arm, and gently lift the wheel/swing arm and it will drop out the bottom (have a hand on it to catch it).

    BNS-Mono-Remove5.jpg

    6. Re-installation is of course opposite of above. Move the wheel/swing-arm to allow ease of bolt installation. You should not have to beat anything back in, when aligned by moving the swing-arm/wheel, everything will slide in by fingers only. Also, now would be a good time to grease the bearings including the swing arm bearings. They are notoriously lacking in grease from the factory.
     
    Bill Hagan likes this.
  2. Oz1200Guzzi

    Oz1200Guzzi High Miler

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    Thanks Todd,

    I tried it once to no avail and ended up giving up. But I will give it another go soon!
     
  3. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Thanks Todd. That's great to have posted.

    Have you ever had to drill off the preload knob's retaining screw? Hopefully mine was a rare example.
     
  4. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member

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    My pleasure, and yes, but only one of ~6, so far. I have two more to do this week/end.
     
  5. guzzibob

    guzzibob GT Reference

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    Thanks Todd, very nice. Printed out to add to my collection. Though hopefully only time I ever do it will be by you in your garage on the way to upgrading the shock.
     
  6. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member

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    My pleasure Bob, and look forward to that day in helping you fit a new rear shock. FYI... I revised picture 3 above and added some text, as I forgot to note the lower shock bolt removal.
     
  7. londonrob

    londonrob Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I took my shock off last week to change the spring for Todd's uprated Hyperpro one, if you get the angle of the swingarm right it just falls out, dead easy. :)

    Todd do you have any suggestions for settings on spring pre load, I'm keeping the damping at 11 clicks and have already fitted Hyperpro fork springs.
    I'm 15 stone and ride mostly solo.

    I'm amazed at how clean your bike is in the pics, mine is covered in crap after an english winter, with plenty of surface rust on the top of the shock.
    Those Californian winters must be hell.... :lol:
     
  8. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Todd

    Removal went like a bought one. About a 10 minute procedure. Only thing I'd add is that to withdraw the top mounting bolt from the suspension unit's eye it helps to use a magnetic picker or a wire hook once the bolt is free of the thread in the frame lug.

    While the suspender was out I took the opportunity to remove the bottom linkages and grease the needle rollers and seals again. Last done two years ago and really not needed this time as everything was perfect.

    More later once the unit has been upgraded. Apparently some units have been assembled with internal parts the wrong way around, leading to shocking compression damping response.
     
  9. nel

    nel Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    My bike has cost over£1000 in oil leaks gearbox seal carc input seal. Whilst it was in the dealer said it needed new needle bearings in the triangular linkage marked yellow/green in above pics were pitted and corroded . He said he didn't know how it passed its mot. I reminded him he did the mot 6 weeks previous when he did the gearbox seal. Anyway he said they change the whole triangular block cos its to labour intensive to change the bearings.
     
  10. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Well nel that sounds like a real tale of woes. Sorry to hear it. Forum member BeBe had issues with his bike's rear suspension linkage so it may be worth sending him a PM about it. As I recall there was no troublesome play nor any lube issue, it was just that the inspector wasn't checking things correctly.

    To feel for up/down play - the play that matters - the testing method is with the bike on the centrestand is to reach across the seat and lift the rear wheel up and let it down a few times so that any linkage play will be felt as freeplay. The forked linkage arm which attaches at the front to the frame lug is made to be able to move laterally a bit for alignment purposes and sidesways movement there shouldn't be mistaken for troublesome play.

    Pitting of the needle rollers is a bad thing of course and is a sign on such young bikes of poor lubrication on assembly, missing seals at each end of the bearings, or a lot of water (and salt in some countries) being flung over the linkage. I've fitted a protective flexible flap to reduce the amount of muck reaching the linkage and shock, and here salting of roads isn't widespread.

    If pitting ot the needle rollers and inner spacers was present I'd just remove the seals and press out the bearings and then replace the parts rather than buy a whole linkage. The bearings and seals don't look special to me. Just the same, removing the linkage and re-greasing the bearings and seals every year or two is no big deal - probably an hour's work. My 97 Triumph Trophy was fitted with grease nipples which were charged at each 10,000km service. Now there was a good idea!
     
  11. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member

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    For the rear shock? If yes, it's spec'ed in the instructions. Yes, our Winter's can be a real burden with horrid "rain" (light showers most often)... then we get a lovely 4-7 months of warm sunshine. :pinch:

    Thanks and done!
     
  12. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    One further refinement. The detent ball for the preload adjuster is at about 11.30 O'clock, so putting your hand there and following the knob as it's removed should have the ball caught rather than bounce along the floor. Similarly, holding the ball in place with a finger when refitting the knob gets everything in place nicely.
     
  13. guzzibob

    guzzibob GT Reference

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    Some units of what? The Hyperpro Monoshock? Todd, you seen/heard about some of that?
     
  14. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member

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    Graham, thanks again. Bob, assuming he means the OEM shock, which is believable based on some of the horrible action of most of them. I've had *zero* issues with the HP units. Graham, please expand.
     
  15. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Yes it's the OEM Sachs unit I'm referring to. The NZ suspension Guru has come across several Sachs units on Aprilias (and our Guzzis are effectively Aprilias) where the damping piston had been fitted the wrong way around. As You know, a unit with bad compression response can easily give the effect of spring bottoming. BTW at the "Standard" preload setting my Breva has 10mm unladen sag, (7% of axle range) which does not indicate that the spring is too light for the bike's weight. Maybe with a large rider, pillion and luggage it may be of course.

    (Post split to new thread, Re: Rear suspension upgrade for my Breva 11 -- Ed. - Todd)
     
  16. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Probably obvious, but refitting is best done in reverse. Ie. Fit the top eye bolt once the bottom has been refixed and the linkage reconnected.

    Refitting the preload knob detent spring and ball - grease the spring and ball and fit in place. Hold the ball in place with a finger as the knob is pushed over the ball.
     
  17. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Using the method illustrated in this photo I can remove and refit the unit by myself - 10 minutes out and 12 minutes in. All work apart from actual removal and re-insertion of the suspension unit into the bike can be done from the right hand side. The wood chock is "just in case" and isn't really necessary as the bike is very stable on the centrestand, especially with the weight of the rear wheel/arm/CARC carried by the jack. The arm needs to be raised to about 90 degrees relative to the suspension unit when being removed and re-inserted as per Todd's photo.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. rturo

    rturo Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Graham

    I was suspicious as soon as I noticed a lack of a 4lb hammer in the required tools. :lol: .. but started anyway. Knob off (ball went sideways out of the right side of the bike avoiding all attempt to catch it in hand or container...), nut off the linkage bolt, cant get this bolt to free up even when i place wife on bike and jack the rear ... all i'm doing is jacking the bike off the centrestand ... could the linkage be siezed up ?

    Art
     
  19. rturo

    rturo Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Graham

    OK so I decided to investigate further what was happening when I was jacking the CARC?

    Took the bike off the centrestand. Onto the sidestand and its obvious the linkage is moving just by loading the seat a little . Mmm. Tried looking for the expected sweet spot where the bolt is free to move and lo and behold i can find it without jacking the CARC, just by loading the suspension up by using one arm across the seat while checking the bolt head to see if it frees up ... and bingo out she come's no worries ... no idea why jacking was lifting the bike as a unit rather than moving the suspension but this method is much easier anyway.

    anyway back to continue the shock removal...

    Art :eek:
     
  20. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Art

    Good to hear that you got on top of it all. The jack I found makes everything easy, but you do have to fiddle a bit to get holes to align. At no stage did the jack try to lift my whole bike, so I can't shed light on your finding.

    Why are you removing the shock?
     

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