• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Mouting clip-ons on my Le Mans III

FinkBrau

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Messages
7
Hi folks, I'm new here so before asking questions I'll start by introducting myself, 'cause I'm a polite dude, y'know...

I'm Pierre, 24 from France, and I just recently bought a sweet '88 Le Mans III with a 1000SP's engine, café racer style :
GUZZ2.JPG


I bought it just as on the picture, and there are some details that, I think, can be improved...

First, I'd like to complete the Café look by giving her the basics : clip-ons. So I bougth a pair of Tommasellis.


Now, I'm wondering if I'll have to drop off the whole fork to mount them... I untightened all the screws of the superior T but I can't remove it... And as I don't want to do anything wrong, I prefer asking for advices...

Here is the superior T:
TE1.JPG

TE2.JPG


Now there's this big nut on the steering column, under the T, but I'm not sure... Anyone in here is able to give me a hand on this?


Thanks a lot,
Pierre.
 
Hi Pierre,
Welcome! I think you have a LeMans IV or V not a III, the rotors don't match the LMIII. The top triple clamp can be removed to install the clip-on without removing or affecting the steering bearings. The top clamp should slide right up after the bolts are loosened.


Rafael
 
You may be right about the model... In fact I bought it thinking it was a 1000SP, but then the owner told me the frame was from a '88 Le Mans, and it's registered as a Le Mans... That's all I know. Thanks for the heads up anyway.


For the clamp, it just can't slide due to the upper part of the steering column, the one you see on the first picture, on top of the clamp. It seems to be tappered inside but there is no grip to loosen it.
 
I see what you mean, I didn't notice that top fastener, it's definitely not stock MG. I did an image search on google and could not find a smooth nut like that. All the triple clamps I found used a hex nut or a pin system. My hope was to find the brand then you'll have a lead on how to remove it. Would've been nice if you had gotten information about the modifications done. Oh well. You need to try some tools that are similar to a pipe fitting chain wrench; something that squeezes as you apply torque. If you can find one small enough; you can fit some sheet rubber over the smooth nut to protect the finish. A monkey wrench with leather in the jaw might even work, you'd have to be very careful though. I don't think the taper tells you how this smooth nut goes on, I think its threaded. I bet if you take a close look at the top you'll see the start of the threads.
 
If you can't easily get the nut off you could try loosening the clamps and sliding the fork legs down through the T instead. For the top nuts I use a flank drive impact socket and T-handle.

Peter
 
Ok so I finally unmounted the wheel, calipers, fender and headlight, and the tubes seem to move. But as I can't properly keep the bike stable with one jack, I can't pull too hard.

So I'll call a friend and we'll do that properly...


Still, what a pain in the ass just to put clip-ons! :laugh:
 
Back
Top