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Need Advice.....kinda ASAP

J

John Symchik

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
27
Location
Englishtown, NJ
Appreciate any advice that can be offered.

My situation is this.

I bought tires for my Cali 1400 Tour from Revzilla and brought them to Cycle Gear for mounting. They offer a discount and seem to have a decent reputation. I ordered a 180 rear to see if I too like the handling change. I got no call after 24hrs as promised so after 48 hrs I called them and got the uhh yeah I was meaning to call, we cant bead that 180 on the rear and we dont have a cannon to pop it on. He said he tried and seemed genuine. I figured its my fault for f'ing around with the size and went there today to pick them up. I figured I'd either buy or borrow the cannon and go from there. No big deal.

They roll out the rear tired and the rim looked like it was thrown from a moving vehicle. Tons of missing paint right down to the aluminum all around the perimeter. Check the pics. I was hot but waiting and planning what to say. I've learned to wait a bit in these situations and tried to read them to see if they knew already they had a problem. I'd say they did know. At first an attempt was made to say they had scratches and I made sure they knew I wasn't having it. In addition there was a sheet written at dropoff that said light scratches. So put aside a bit of back and forth....they are owning it. The manager says he will have front and rear painted. The bad news is it sounds like it could take weeks. Naturally I don't want to wait. I also have to wonder what kind of job will be ordered by them. I really have no control and it's not inconceivable that things could get worse.

What would anyone here do. I'm thinking of trying to get a few bucks from them either in cash or heavily discounted tires in the proper size and just have them powdercoated at a shop I've used before. The big question is how hard is it to get everything out of the hubs. I know MG has a sense of humor and am wondering if getting the bearings out and back in is anything strange. If not I think I'd like to gain control of how this gets fixed rather than run the risk of waiting only to receive a mess in return. Let's face it. What knid of paint work do you get at the car dealer when they're correcting a mistake. You get the cheapest job they can manage. I expect the same here. I'm very into this bike and have forks and shocks on the way from Todd. Point being I'm trying to make it a bike I'll want to keep a long time.

What's your thoughts?

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Sounds as if your head is screwed on straight, John, after provocation that would make a saint into a sinner. Nice work on staying cool, as most folks (understandably) often don't and burn bridges they'll need when the issue is raised in the corporate "chain of command" or court or wherever.

I have not owned a C14, so I am of zero help on the tech aspects of your questions WRT, e.g., hub internals, tho would be surprised if anything exotic.

As for working the system, have you checked the "fine print" of any paperwork, if any, you signed when dropped off or picked up wheels?

Have you been to the Revzilla/CW website to see what mention there might be WRT resolving disputes, e.g., escalating to"suits" within the company? Ditto any web searches for folks who have gone down this same road?

It has been my experience (as a lawyer and consumer) that most CSR's at all levels and (most) corporations want to make problems such as yours "go away" and in a way that makes you happy even if it costs them. What turns those "what can we do to make you happy, Sir?" attitudes into Foxtrot Yankee stone walls are profanity-laced threats of this and that that do no good except to make the spouter feel good ... at the time.

You seem, however, to have done it all perfectly to now. I would be pleasantly persistent, with the adjective as critical as the noun.

I also understand and appreciate the desire to make this all happen sooner than later -- heck, who doesn't want to ride after this past Covid year and a long winter? -- but think this may take much longer than your desired week. Haste on your part might well lead to disappointment in the long run. Concur completely with your view that the shop will go with "low bid" that usually means suboptimal results.

OK, enough platitudes. Keep us posted as things work their way to resolution.

Bill
 
I just know of the ones down here are pretty good, had em do a few if I got a deal on the tires. I think they'll make it right for you. Might have been some new kid doing it. I run those machines for years & never had a mishap, got to pay attention that's all.
 
If they are willing to get the wheels re-powder coated - it will take some time, but the wheels should be as good as new after.
New tires or a discount won’t fix the wheels.

I would also find out who will be doing the work, and look them up, try and find out if they do good work ?

Good luck, chalk this one up to experience.
One that you don’t want to repeat !
 
My update is that I'm going to take them back and get them coated myself. This way I can have a bit more control over the situation and get it done a little faster. It's plenty nice enough to ride right now so time is wasting.

I need a helmet and will opt to cut bait with these tires. So they're going to heavily discount a helmet and tires as a concession for the whole ordeal. In the end it should be looked at as a good thing because there is evidence suggesting the paint is not adhering properly. One of the chips, when picked with a fingernail, flaked off a bunch of paint. They are no doubt happy to hand it over.

The lesson is always make sure they give you a sheet that addresses condition when you drop off. Take pictures as well. This, at least, if it's not a shop that you deal with regularly. You never know who's working on your stuff. It could even be somebody that's new and winds up fired but not in time to save you a headache. This is why I do absolutely as much as I can myself, but I'm not buying a tire mounting setup anytime soon.
 
John Symchik said:
This, at least, if it's not a shop that you deal with regularly. You never know who's working on your stuff. It could even be somebody that's new and winds up fired but not in time to save you a headache
Click to expand...
Indeed. A "cannon" isn't needed, just a simple ratcheting strap to hold it on bead. Most of the 180s we've done, especially Dunlops, have beaded with little to no help. I'm not a fan of Shinkos, though they are cheap I know.
 
GTM® said:
Indeed. A "cannon" isn't needed, just a simple ratcheting strap to hold it on bead. Most of the 180s we've done, especially Dunlops, have beaded with little to no help. I'm not a fan of Shinkos, though they are cheap I know.
Click to expand...
Yep, a tyre guy had trouble seating a rear tyre on my old FJ Yamaha once, he used a ratchet strap and it popped straight on.
 
I ran 180s on my C14 when I had it and a ratchet strap always did the trick if I had any trouble seating
 
GTM® said:
Indeed. A "cannon" isn't needed, just a simple ratcheting strap to hold it on bead. Most of the 180s we've done, especially Dunlops, have beaded with little to no help. I'm not a fan of Shinkos, though they are cheap I know.
Click to expand...

Ha.. I always say I'm the worst liar and can't get away with anything. I had intended to NOT mention I was using Shinko tires. So I didn't. I just posted pictures prominently displaying the fact. I figured I'd give them a shot. They actually seem to get favorable reviews for everything but longevity. I figured if I tried the 180 size I'd go a bit "cheap".

I have them back home and am just figuring out what I need to get the bearings out. Looks like a puller is necessary.
 
John Symchik said:
They say CHINA on them. I have to. I'm sure I'll destroy them anyway. They're cheap enough too.
Click to expand...
Are you kidding? Chinese bearings on a Moto Guzzi?
SKF are made in Italy and others too. That being said, Timken has been making bearings in China for quite a while and they are excellent.
 
I am happy I learned that too. No reason to go to the parts counter or even buy the aftermarket kits. I have a place by me that usually has everything I need seals included. There are some times you strike out. I have an older BMW GS and the final drive bearing seems unavailable anywhere in the world other than BMW at something like $110 if I remember. I was thinking of keeping a spare but changed my mind.

I found the same re: many choices. I usually take their word for whats a good bearing. CHINA, as you say, doesn't necessarily mean junk. These in the Guzzi are NSK which I think are pretty good. Id like to find something Japanese. Hopefully I can get them out today. I stripped everything else off yesterday. Took some heat and Kroil. They used tons of loctite on the rotors etc. I was scared shit to snap or round out one of those allen bolts.

Today I got the bearings out with a slide hammer kit from Harbor Freight. I was off to a bad start after smashing my pinky with the slide hammer and the first bearing wouldn't budge even with a hammer and rod from the opposite side. Applied a little heat with the torch and it nearly fell out. Amazing every time what a difference a little heat makes. My grandfather was a machinist and did a fair bit of welding. After retiring one of the only tools he kept from among many was an oxy acetylene setup. Has so many uses. I collected some very nice torches due to an interest in building an ultralight. I got pretty decent at welding 4130 tube with it. All those beautiful Piper Cubs, Aeroncas, Citabrias, Taylor Craft and a ton more are still flying the better part of 100 years after being built with steel and a torch. Tig is amazing but it's pretty tough to learn and pricey to buy.

Anyway, ready for the powder coater.
 
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