If you are within years/mileage the warranty should be honored no matter how many owners the bike has had.
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Need Help PLZ...Oil Leak from the Driveshaft.
- Thread starter Grvforce
- Start date
If you are within years/mileage the warranty should be honored no matter how many owners the bike has had.
sign216
High Miler
Here are my guesses on a final drive (rear drive) leak:
First check to make sure the leak is from the final drive, and it's not a leak from the drain or level plugs, or the breather. If it's really from the final drive, here are some possibilities;
1. Breather. On top of the final final drive is a vented bolt. Unscrew and blow through it, making sure it's not blocked. The drive gets very hot when running, and if it's not vented then oil is forced out at the seals. At least one bike had a standard (non-breathing) bolt put in at the factory! And on my bike the vent closed up for no apparent reason.
2. Oil level. Some authorities say to fill with the full 170ml, even if that amount is over bottom edge of the horizontal oil level check hole. The overfill may put the oil level above the seals, putting them in a constant bath. That's ok if the seals are good, but will cause a leak if there are any minor problems with the seals.
3. Seals. Some part(s) in the final drive don't have good rust protection, and any corroded parts will abrade and damage the seals. One part that might rust is part no. 16 "pin" or hub in the factory parts diagram, and the seals often affected are no. 15 and 3.
4. Older style drive hub. The older style drive hub was prone to leaks. This was corrected with a newer part, which has chrome plating on the sealing surface. Your bike (2012) should be ok, but I'm just mentioning this as an fyi.
5. Bearings. An oil leak can be a sign that the bearings are starting to go bad. Replacing the bearings can solve the leak. The bad bearings heat the oil, forcing it out.
6. Crush Washer. If you re-use the crush washer on the bottom, make sure it’s still good. If it weeps, the oil can migrate, looking like it’s coming from somewhere else.
7. Casting Flaw. At least one bike had a flaw in the casting, causing the leak. This should only come up on new bikes, and is uncommon, but something to think about.
Keep me posted on this issue.
Joe
First check to make sure the leak is from the final drive, and it's not a leak from the drain or level plugs, or the breather. If it's really from the final drive, here are some possibilities;
1. Breather. On top of the final final drive is a vented bolt. Unscrew and blow through it, making sure it's not blocked. The drive gets very hot when running, and if it's not vented then oil is forced out at the seals. At least one bike had a standard (non-breathing) bolt put in at the factory! And on my bike the vent closed up for no apparent reason.
2. Oil level. Some authorities say to fill with the full 170ml, even if that amount is over bottom edge of the horizontal oil level check hole. The overfill may put the oil level above the seals, putting them in a constant bath. That's ok if the seals are good, but will cause a leak if there are any minor problems with the seals.
3. Seals. Some part(s) in the final drive don't have good rust protection, and any corroded parts will abrade and damage the seals. One part that might rust is part no. 16 "pin" or hub in the factory parts diagram, and the seals often affected are no. 15 and 3.
4. Older style drive hub. The older style drive hub was prone to leaks. This was corrected with a newer part, which has chrome plating on the sealing surface. Your bike (2012) should be ok, but I'm just mentioning this as an fyi.
5. Bearings. An oil leak can be a sign that the bearings are starting to go bad. Replacing the bearings can solve the leak. The bad bearings heat the oil, forcing it out.
6. Crush Washer. If you re-use the crush washer on the bottom, make sure it’s still good. If it weeps, the oil can migrate, looking like it’s coming from somewhere else.
7. Casting Flaw. At least one bike had a flaw in the casting, causing the leak. This should only come up on new bikes, and is uncommon, but something to think about.
Keep me posted on this issue.
Joe
Grvforce
Tuned and Synch'ed
I got my 2012 new in May 2014. had this issue with very few miles, the parts where cheap ( seal n gasket only)and took less than a day to fix. And it was covered by the warranty. Good luck
Hasse
Tuned and Synch'ed
I have not fixed my leaking yet, so I can not tell what is causing my leaky.
I am not at all impressed with the quality of my V7 Cafe. Really lousy with oil spills on such a new bike.
Have owned Yamaha, Honda, BMW and Harley and they have all been entirely free from that.
Even my Guzzi 850T -74 I went with the late seventies was completely dry.
Hope you have patience with that I'm not so good at English, (language was not my favorite at the school in the sixties
Oops, missed page 2.
Nothing wrong with the bike, it could be something simple, like the previous owner slightly overfilled the final drive, or the breather got blocked with insect goo while riding
Its an easy fix, as long as you have the seals as shown above.
Takes more time to get the wheel off & on, than changing the parts.
Undoing the lower bolt, on one of the shock absorbers & swinging it up out of the way, makes it a lot easier to get the wheel off and on .
Nothing wrong with the bike, it could be something simple, like the previous owner slightly overfilled the final drive, or the breather got blocked with insect goo while riding
Its an easy fix, as long as you have the seals as shown above.
Takes more time to get the wheel off & on, than changing the parts.
Undoing the lower bolt, on one of the shock absorbers & swinging it up out of the way, makes it a lot easier to get the wheel off and on .