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New Owner 1999 Bassa Need Help, in process of restoring

Discussion in 'Loop & Tonti' started by Param, Jan 21, 2019.

  1. V700Steve

    V700Steve High Miler GT di Razza Pura

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    I was thinking Jackal for brakes. Bassa is like EV, Integral Brakes. Rear switch is on left side of bike by sidecover & on bottom side of splitter. Line from master goes right to it.
     
    Param likes this.
  2. Desmo007

    Desmo007 Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    A little time, and a brake line kit is all you need for a regular set up brake system. I just did mine. The hardest part was the bleeding. lol Reverse bleeding with a syringe = time saver. I've done a lot of the conversions, so anything I can provide in terms of tips, hit me up.

    FYI - I have a LOAD of body parts including 3 screens, etc from my 99 Bassa I just about finished converting to a cafe racer.
     
  3. Param

    Param Just got it firing!

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    I have bleed the both front and rear brake system, front caliper were powder coated.
    can you please send the pics of screen and by any chance do you have the battery holder clamp ?
    Please do post a pic it will interesting to see a bassa in cafe setup

    regarding the my bike issue with brake light i have checked the rear brake switch its functioning fine, and i think i might have interchanged the connectors to rear light , and the battery died so waiting for the battery so i can check everything again, hopefully it was just a silly mistake
    thank you for the help
     
  4. Desmo007

    Desmo007 Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    Unfortunately, I don’t have the battery holder. (It didn’t come with a stock battery)

    Here are the wind screens
     

    Attached Files:

  5. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    I think you will find the bike handles best with the smallest windscreen. It is what I used on my EVs.
     
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  6. Param

    Param Just got it firing!

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    update found the problem with brake light , it was the front switch, at rest position is off and it was missing the piece that makes contact with the lever and the micro switch, dont know if i dropped it while sending to the power coating, ordered a new complete switch

    After the all plumbing and fixing leaks i think finding god is much easier than sorting the fuel lines and other plumbing, others might have secret way of doing it easily i would love to know,

    Saturday was all spent working on the bassa, at one time forgot the air filter lid while sorting plumbing and was scratching my head why the hell its running like crap, anyways silly mistakes i am sure everyone makes them
    good thing is its all working now ,
    warmup/ cold starting has some hicups, is it normal?
    i set the throttle around 1000 rpm idle, is this correct?

    some pics
    IMG_3141.JPG IMG_3142.JPG IMG_3143.JPG IMG_3144.JPG IMG_3145.JPG InkedIMG_3146_LI.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2019
  7. V700Steve

    V700Steve High Miler GT di Razza Pura

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    Glad it worked out for you . Idle between 1000 & 1100 is fine. You can get most hick-ups out by finding where the motor likes the air bleed screws and setting the idle CO. You may want to try different setting and explore, every motor is different.
     
  8. Param

    Param Just got it firing!

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    where is that screw? throttle bodies ?
     
  9. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Yes throttle bodies. Contained in one of the round structures. you have to go from below with a flat blade screw driver. It is how to best get the idle sync and idle rpm. So if the Throttle Bodies are set up correctly Idle speed and sync is set with the air bypass screws. Instruction for the TB setup is in the PDF file on this page https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/new-alaris-centurion-vdsts-info-instructions.1676/page-2
     

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