• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

NGK Spark plug caps

:D I have got the NGK plugs as listed. The bike runs great with them but I have noted a little more background noise on the bike intercom. I know the NGK's are 5kohm, does anybody know what the stock ones are?
Does the coil care what resistance the caps are?
I assume the anwer to the noise would be a noise filter in the intercom module power supply?
 
I just swapped mine out as well. The resistance of the stockers is also marked 5K ohms.

The swap went quite well on the right side, plenty of wire. Not so well on the left. someone posted that there was plenty of wire there also, so I tugged a bit and unplugged the left wire from the coil. Darn near inaccessible to reattach!! I fussed and fumed for at least a half hour till I could finagle that darn thing back into it's socket!! If you do the swap, remove the plug cap, then reroute the wire outboard instead of inboard of the silver frame member, ending up between the silver part of the frame and the tupperware. THEN, there's slightly more than "just enough" to make it back to the cylinder head.

Bike runs great with the new caps. I had just a hint of brief one-cylinder running last time out in the rain, so I made the swap before the PA rally. Glad I did, as I ended up riding in the rain for an hour and a half or so on the way back. (speedo sensor crapped again for part of the ride, then came on again later (???) but that's another story, and another repair...)
 
John in PA said:
The swap went quite well on the right side, plenty of wire. Not so well on the left. someone posted that there was plenty of wire there also, so I tugged a bit and unplugged the left wire from the coil. Darn near inaccessible to reattach!! I fussed and fumed for at least a half hour till I could finagle that darn thing back into it's socket!! If you do the swap, remove the plug cap, then reroute the wire outboard instead of inboard of the silver frame member, ending up between the silver part of the frame and the tupperware. THEN, there's slightly more than "just enough" to make it back to the cylinder head.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem and arrived at the same solution. However, I ended up with "just enough" and not the "slightly more than..." that you did. It's definitely a tight fit, but I have a package of the NGK X4K's enroute from its native land in the event I get enthusiastic and want to replace the complete wire/cap set.

Cory
 
I recently took delivery of the full set of wires and plug caps, came all the way from japan, I had to pay an extra 20 odd quid for customs duty and a feckin' admin fee to Royal mail parcels for the privelidge of them recieving the the customs payment.....at least Dick Turpin had the decency to wear a mask when he robbed people. :x I'll get around to fitting the full set whenever I get to remove the fuel tank.
 
It's raining here in the great northwest this weekend, so I thought I'd work on installing the new NGK plug wires. But now that I have one of the stock ones off, I'm not sure why I'd change them. As the photo shows, the insulation on the stock cap is thicker than the NGK cap. And it seems the stock cap would seal the plug hole better than the NGK. The stock wire shows a Guzzi part number of 640760 on the cap, and I noticed on the wire itself it says "made in USA". Are these the original wires? Is this what everyone else on this thread is changing out?

A couple other notes. The NGK iridium spark plugs for the Stelvio don't some with the top cap. They just have the threads on top. But the X4K plug wires come with the cap that fits the threads perfectly. And the X4K wires don't come with an end that fits in the coil. Instead they come with a gizmo to splice the wires together (NGK wire for the spark plug end and the stock wire for the coil end). I went to my local auto parts store and found the pieces for the coil end that match original equipment, so I don't have to cut/use any of the stock wire.
 

Attachments

  • Plug Wire.jpg
    Plug Wire.jpg
    638.9 KB · Views: 861
I was bitten by this problem about 2 months ago with my '12 NTX and now Ive been bitten again. I gotta change out the Guzzi caps. More later.
 
OK, can anyone update us on this? Looks like the SB05E cap at about $3 each is the way to go. The X4K wire/cap set looks good but seems hard to get and may have some other issues. Anyone get/have the X4K sets?
 
Being an owner of a new Stelvio, and living in the North-wet, I'm concerned that this issue may be in my future...
Has anyone looked into the cause of this failure? I'm thinking that a contributing factor could be caused buy roughness in the original casting. As a preventative step, I'm wondering if a little metal polishing (with a Dremmel) would smooth out any high points that contribute to the problem. I say this from speculation as I haven't removed the spark plugs caps, kinda afraid to actually, as they are noted as being 'fragile'.
 
Still got my origs. Thru all kinds of weather. I like the idea of the rubber boot for sealing out the weather. (Would it be transferrable to the X4Ks?) As for ripping them, I saw from the beginningthat u shouldn't be grabbing these things with a pair of pliers and have used the suggested zap tie method gingerly, making sure that the strap wasn't cutting into the rubber when I pulled. Never a problem. :D
 
Can someone please comment on which is the right cap for the 2012 Stelvio. Looking through the posts I am getting a little confused for the 2012. Is it the SB05E or the SD05E. The SB is for a 14mm thread on the plug (which the 2012 isn't) and the SD is for 10 or 12mm (which the 2012 is). All posts point to the SB, hense, my confusion. Any help would be appreciated.
 
The NGK CR8EKB plug used in the '12 Stelvio engine is a 10mm thread plug. Yes, the proper cap should be an SD05E. The seal on the much-used SB05E does not tightly seal around the CR8EKB plug.

See cap replace thread....
 
I just got word from an NGK dealer that the SD05E is not available in the US. The SD05F IS available. It is the same as the SD05E except the cap is designed for threaded spark plug terminals. I'm ordering a pair of SD05F caps. I will remove the lower rubber seals from the SD caps and install them on my SB05E caps on the Stelvio. That way, I will have a good, tight moisture seal around the plug insulator. This may be overkill.

See post here-

https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/190/10 ... l?start=10
 
How about wrapping just enough black electrical tape around the plug to take up the space on the SB05E cap rubber boots ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top