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No Spark, or Gas Pumping...help me please - Breva 750

JugBarn

JugBarn

Just got it firing!
Joined
Mar 20, 2022
Messages
13
Location
North Carolina
Found a Breva 750 in a barn...16000 miles.wow. I bought it PO said it runs but may need new packs.

I bought a new Battery. 12.6 volts on charged battery.

Did startus interruptus fix. Turns over starter fine. Then later removed startus interruptus, fix...still turns over fine.

Jumped clutch sensor on clutch lever, it was damaged, by a wire jumper in connector.

Tested fuel pump, rewired Fuel pump with new connector, added 2 gallons of gas to tank. Gas light on dash only comes on when fuel is low, is this right?

Kickstand switch was deleted, replaced with On/Off/On switch A Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT).....maybe not be correct way of deleting kickstand switch???? See picture. Received 1203652257074498

Cleaned several connections, relays.

Disconnected and cleaned neutral sensor wire, not connected back yet. Tight on hands, will reconnect soon.

Relays with tape in picture click when Kickstand delete is switched....other two relays do nothing... Received 511577153875143
 
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Reseated ECU, replaced all fuses. Also shift preselection seems jammed...I'll address that later after I get it running.

My main question is..... How the hell do I get fuel to pump, and possibly spark to rule out packs being bad???? Racking my brain....HELP ME!
 
What are "packs"? Never heard of that term in relation to a motorcycle. Neutral switch needs to be connected. The fuel pump relay may be bad. Also check position of engine cut off switch. It appears teh previous owner really butchered that bike. Getting things back to stock will improve your chances of having a nice running bike. You probably will need to get the bike to a dealer to straighten everything out. If you make a donation to the site, the schematic for the bike is available in the downloads section to help troubleshoot the systems.

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Unless you are prepared to return the wiring to the original specification, then you make it virtually impossible to assist you to diagnose your issues.

It’s extremely difficult to do this type of assistance without the benefit of the ability to see, touch, and hear the motorcycle.

When you add in the additional confusion and complication of a Mickey Mouse electrical configuration, then you’ve got an impossible situation. It’s just too many compounding variables.

John Zibell is telling you the truth and the same thing I am.

FIRST - fix that wiring mess! If you don’t, you are going to have a constant hot mess of issues.
 
I'll start with new relays I guess...look at grounds...the fuel pump did cut on for a few seconds after i did the kickstand delete....it has been neglected...wiring is in sad shape
 
I guess you are not understanding.

You should start with putting the correct switches and wiring back in the OEM condition. Then, you will have something to work with. Changing relays and other random expenditures, will give you nothing except an emptier wallet. You still will have a motorcycle for which you don't have a reliable electrical platform, and this will cause havoc repeatedly. It's probably why it was abandoned in the barn in the first place.

FYI - just a quick search on Google and I found an OEM wiring loom for your motorcycle for less than $60. That would be the very first thing I would look at. If you replace that, then you will have something functional and that fits the diagrams, service manual, etc.

Just my 2 cent suggestion.


ebay.com/itm/362555966882#vi-desc-maincntr

S l1600
 
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I get you.... I've just been able to troubleshoot other motorcycles, vehicles much easier in the past....but I agree wiring needs attention
 
To just get it to fire up, find a wiring diagram on thisoldtractor dot com and see if every safety switch on your bike is open or closed for a start condition. Understanding each individual circuit is key. Kill switch is off? Ignition lock not buggered? The fuel pump should run until max pressure is achieved as soon as you turn the key. You can take out your spark plugs, stick them in the caps and ground them with some wire to the engine to see if you get sparks while cranking. If so, you could try to wire the fuel pump straight to 12 volt and see if you can get the bike to fire up.
Relais and safety switches are common culprits for a no start, but also the camshaft sensor. A workshop manual will tell you the proper Ohm reading. Good luck!
 
SPDT. Correct assuming you have the right color wires there from the actual wiring loom, and not something spliced in upstream all wonky.
 
Well...bought a crank angle sensor no dice.....old one had no shims just o-ring.....this isn't getting fun right now....ANY SUGGESTIONS???

been pretty busy lately....still no spark or fuel prime
 
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You obviously have a basket case on your hands.

You will be spending a fortune on parts unless you start to work through this logically and systematically.

Why did you buy a new crank sensor? Was the spark plug not firing when cranking over? Did you remove the plug and use a spark tester to visualize the spark?

As to your shift fork? What makes you think this? If the rear ended is elevated and you hand rotate the rear wheel, are you able to move through the gears without the clutch?

You’ve got a huge project for sure.

Work logically and methodically is my best advice to you. Otherwise you will flail about.
 
My bypasses did get it to turn over....so I made progress....but.....

Looking on web and schematic...I thought problem was at injector relays not getting power signal (thus no fuel or spark) so upstream crank angle sensor controls that...rather than chase wires I tried crank sensor.....maybe it was faulty and looked ratty.......no shims just a ORing....it has only primed once since I got it...circuit has crank angle sensor... pump, injectors, coil...wires..relays not much to it I thought... 😂

As for clutch...it won't shift out of a gear...so there is that... choose my battles for now..

Hand clutch switch in handle bypassed, sidestand switch is bypassed.... neutral sensor is still hooked up...took off but made no difference...crammed hand in and put back on...
I took tank off cleaned up pump, reattach tubing more securely and pumped gas through using a spare battery...it pumps pretty good....but I'm wondering if it's the fuel level sender that may be intermittent.......fuel light on dash is a bit intermittent...but not sure how that works really...? I charge it up before I mess with it, batt new ....cleaned motor/ground connection...rewired fuel pump....tilt sensor unhooked no change...put back....tilt sensor seems not malfunctioning... swapped relays around....still no clicking in main injector relay or secondary injector relay......reseated alot if connections....reseated ECU....I'm getting some new relays soon.... about to get test bulb out and get busy checking wiring...geez
 
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