Norge 1200 8V oil drip & intermittent miss

[Guzzi2Go]

Guess I’ll be showing my lack of knowledge again on the N8V but here goes. My new to me N8V has been putting a drop or two of oil on the garage floor, after a long ride, from just in front and to the left of the rear wheel . Looking at the area I’ve found a clear plastic pipe, capped hanging down as well as the area in general is oily and , of course, covered with road dirt sticking to the oil. I’ve heard about a drain tube for the breather box on some models, is that what the tube is?
Next question, just recently, at idle, I will get a random miss fire. Not consistent but it is new. Any suggestions as to things I should be looking into?

 

[Raven]

That is the drain. Take the cap off and drain it occasionally. Keeping the oil level in the middle rather than at the full line will reduce the amount of oil which collects.
How old are the spark plugs? Are the caps and wires in good shape? A TPS reset and throttle body balance would be a good place to start if not done recently.

 

[Guzzi2Go]

That is the drain. Take the cap off and drain it occasionally. Keeping the oil level in the middle rather than at the full line will reduce the amount of oil which collects.
How old are the spark plugs? Are the caps and wires in good shape? A TPS reset and throttle body balance would be a good place to start if not done recently.

Thanks I’ll chk the plugs, etc. the bike has 45k km, I’ve put 2,000 km since my purchase. It had a safety for the registration transfer but probably has not had a good turn up yet. Below is a pic of the pipe I was talking about.

 

[Raven]

Another thing, check the valve clearances. They recommend every 10,000 km for this and spark plugs (I usually go longer). I balanced my throttle bodies last fall and the difference in performance was stunning.

 

[john zibell]

Be aware that when the throttle bodies are synchronized, you must have the TPS reset performed. This can be done by a dealer, the software mentioned in this thread, https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/discontinued-alaris-centurion-vdsts-info-instructions.1676/ or the product here https://gtmotocycles.com/products/gt-motocycles-5am-7sm-reflash-tool

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Thanks I’ll chk the plugs, etc. the bike has 45k km, I’ve put 2,000 km since my purchase. It had a safety for the registration transfer but probably has not had a good turn up yet. Below is a pic of the pipe I was talking about.

That tube is the airbox drain. It should have NOTHING in there.

Oil in the tube indicates that you are “chasing” the full mark on the engine oil dipstick. Do not do this. Your engine oil is FINE anywhere between the MIN and the MAX. lines but always best somewhere in between. Trying to fill the engine oil to the very full mark further enhances oil being blown up and out the engine crankcase vent and into the airbox, where it pools in a giant puddle, gums up your steeper motor and ruins your idling, and also goes down that drain tube where you can see it.

Drain the tube overnight and open up your airbox lid and wipe out all of the oil in you airbox. I would also spray carb cleaner into the steeper motor inlet inside the airbox, to remove any oil already down in your steeper motor. (Use SEARCH about cleaning the steeper motor)

 

[Guzzi2Go]

That tube is the airbox drain. It should have NOTHING in there.

Oil in the tube indicates that you are “chasing” the full mark on the engine oil dipstick. Do not do this. Your engine oil is FINE anywhere between the MIN and the MAX. lines but always best somewhere in between. Trying to fill the engine oil to the very full mark further enhances oil being blown up and out the engine crankcase vent and into the airbox, where it pools in a giant puddle, gums up your steeper motor and ruins your idling, and also goes down that drain tube where you can see it.

Drain the tube overnight and open up your airbox lid and wipe out all of the oil in you airbox. I would also spray carb cleaner into the steeper motor inlet inside the airbox, to remove any oil already down in your steeper motor. (Use SEARCH about cleaning the steeper motor)

Thanks for the tips Scott. I've been reading a lot of talk about not filling to the max so its definitely something I'll pay attention to. The oil though does not seem to be coming from the drain pipe as is is getting deposited all over the rear swing arm. I think I'll have to take off the side panels and give it a through inspection to see if I can locate the source.

 

[Raven]

Check the oil return lines on the rear of the valve covers near the throttle bodies. They crack and leak. I changed mine a couple of years ago.

 

[Guzzi2Go]

Another thing, check the valve clearances. They recommend every 10,000 km for this and spark plugs (I usually go longer). I balanced my throttle bodies last fall and the difference in performance was stunning.

As the bike is new to me and the maintenance records I received with the bike don't list plugs, air filter, valve adjustment or carb sync these are all items I'm going to attack shortly. checking the TPS settings will be a new experience for me so there is going to be a bit of a learning curve there. I've been reading up on tank removal to access the air box so this this will another learning experience.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

You do not “check” TPS settings on this model. They are only “reset” via a sophisticated electronic tool. If you do not own one, Todd (GTM) sells an excellent one in the STORE tab.

It is IMPOSSIBLE to reset a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) without one of these type electronic tools.

 

[Guzzi2Go]

You do not “check” TPS settings on this model. They are only “reset” via a sophisticated electronic tool. If you do not own one, Todd (GTM) sells an excellent one in the STORE tab.

It is IMPOSSIBLE to reset a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) without one of these type electronic tools.

That’s what I understand ie impossible to reset without one. No I don’t have one yet but I do need one. I’ll look at the one Todd has in the store. Thanks