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Norge heated grips not working correctly

J

jdub

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Nov 7, 2018
Messages
93
Location
Bay area CA
The dash indicator for the heated grips is stuck on the low setting - I can't change to the medium or high setting, or turn it off no matter how many times I push or hold the button. I'm not sure if the grips are actually heating on the low setting because it's been a bit cold.

It seems like the problem started yesterday after I went into the dash menu to check for codes, after the wrench symbol popped up. I can't think of any settings that would affect the heated grips. Any suggestions?
 
The wrench popping up means it's time for service that's all. Go into diagnostics and clear the service wrench icon, then try changing heat settings.
 
Well crap, I went to clear the wrench icon, then started the bike to check for heated grip function, and now there is a trouble code. ECU code #23, which appears to be an ignition coil issue. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was I had a battery tender connected when I had the turned the ignition on and when I fired up the bike...not sure if I should have unplugged the tender before turning the key on.

The motor fires up and idles fine. I haven't ridden it yet to see how it runs. With the trouble icon showing, the heated grips icon does not show. I disconnected the negative cable from the battery for a few minutes - the trouble code was still there when I reconnected the battery.
 
I went to "delete errors" and then clicked "yes" to confirm. The warning light is still lit and the code is still there. Is there another method to clear the code?

I rode for 70 miles and everything seemed fine except the red warning light and the big triangle on the dash were lit up.
 
It's a code in the ECU section - I don't think any of them get stored, so I'm guessing it is active. Unless the battery tender fried something when I turned the key on, the code popping up just when I'm messing around with the dash menu is too coincidental to be a real fault.
 
Clean the ground connections at your coils. Also make sure the ground point by the starter is clean. Do that by removing, cleaning with scotchbrite or similar and put back together. Most problems with Guzzis are dirty connections.
 
I removed and cleaned the ground at the starter. I'm not sure where the ground at the coils are. I see a wire coming off the harness that goes to a spade connector on each coil - are those the ground points? I disconnected the spades and cleaned them off but it didn't help...I'm still getting the service triangle light. The bike runs fine though. It wouldn't bother me so much except I can't turn on the heated grips in this cold weather.
 
I traced the ground for coils goes directly to the ECU ground. I would clean that ground point also. Disconnect battery first.
Check wiring diag.
 
I am pleased to report that the heated grips are now working and the service light is gone! The culprit was a terminal that had backed out of the wiring connector for the coil. I discovered it by accident - I removed the coils to really get the spade connector clean where it gets bolted onto the coil. After reinstalling the coils and reconnecting all wires, the bike would only fire on one cylinder. The header that was cold told me which side to focus on. I unplugged and re-plugged the coil wiring and noticed one of the rubber plugs meant to keep the connection waterproof had migrated well outside of the plastic connector. After pushing the terminal back into the connector, the bike fired up and sounded good. Initially, the service triangle was still showing but after the motor ran for about 5 seconds, the triangle disappeared! I was thrilled to say the least. However, I was still unable to activate the heated grips.

I took the bike for a 70 mile ride, trying repeatedly to turn on the grips. On probably the sixth try, I finally saw the heated grips indicator showing on the dash? Does that delay make any sense?

BTW, before I discovered the problem, I attempted to remove the ECU to clean the ground point. I gave up when I saw how damn buried that thing is!
 
Most likely the ECU or dash was getting straitened out while on your ride. I would go back to diagnostics and clear stored stuff & recheck grip function. Just to be sure. Good find, that's why they have codes and it was exactly what it said. Nice w/it works out like it should.
 
So the heated grips work now, but I am wondering if anyone else has experienced freezing or lag when trying to change the heat settings? Most of the time, the heated grip indicator on the dash is very fast to respond to control clicks. But sometimes the indicator responds very slowly or not at all to control clicks. Since the grips take several minutes for me to tell if there is any heat or changes in heat output, I can't tell if the lag is contained within the display or if it actually affects the heat output.
 
Have you checked and cleaned where the connectors for the heated grips plug into the loom? This would explain some the symptoms that you have been experiencing if there's a bad or intermittent connection.
 
I think I saw it the last time I had the tank off. A skinny white colored connector? I'll be sure to check it the next time the tank comes off. It's working pretty well but just occasionally there's a delay in response to the controls. It's similar to the delay when you try to scroll through the digits too fast when entering the service code, except it's a bit worse with the grips as it will momentarily freeze and not respond to control inputs.
 
So I haven't had any reason to remove the tank to check the heated grip connectors, but I decided to check the heated grip switch on the left handlebar control pod. The switch is an open design that allows for easy cleaning because the spring and contacts are in plain view. I ran some fine sandpaper between the contacts and followed with some spray electrical contact cleaner. I think the contacts being dirty was the culprit. Not too surprising since the opening for the button is facing forward and catches any water spray.

Too early to tell for sure but in the couple of days since the cleaning,the heated grips have become much more responsive. Clicking through the heat levels is spot on but there is still lag in disengaging the heat sometimes. Turning on the heat seems very positive. Prior to the cleaning, I had a hell of a time turning the heat off. Riding in 90 degree weather with the heated grips stuck in the on position made me not want to turn them on the next morning.

Be warned that putting the control cluster back together is a major pain. The first time I put it back together and went for a ride, the heated grip control worked much better, but the horn button didn't work and the turn signal switch did not work very well. Oh, and I cracked one of the mounting tabs for the electrical junction inside the control pod - my fault for not re-securing the wiring bundle with a zip tie before screwing the junction back down over the bundle. The reason for the horn and turn signals not working was I failed to properly put the horn button back in its the proper orientation inside the pod. Sorry, no pictures but just know the button has to go in front of the "gate" molded into the pod, such that the gate counters any force your thumb applies to the button. The button can be installed on the wrong side of the gate and you would never know the difference...until you push the button and nothing happens! The wrongly placed horn button somehow affected the turn signal switch. After putting the horn button in its proper place, everything is back to normal. Definitely snap a picture or two before taking stuff out of the pod. It crossed my mind to take a photo as I opened it up but I was impatient and thought that it looked simple enough.
 
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