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Norge Oil Pump replacement.

Petrov

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
52
Hey guys I have an 07 Norge, reading all these posts about the oil pump made me paranoid.
How hard is it to replace it?
Also breather tube (the one that pukes oil into the airbox), is there a way to get rid of it or have it puke oil in a catch bottle or something?
 
Hi petrov, not too difficult and worth doing for peace of mind. My crank and con rods wore out all of a sudden with a heavy replacement cost.
Best to check it out
 
Hi Petrov, I replaced the engine breather from the air box into a small bottle under the seat and blocked off the hole in the airbox. The result is a clean, dry airbox, the other upside is that is doesnt put oil mist into the throttler bodies, there was a service bulletin that came out a while ago about having to clean them to stop stalling. Also dont overfill with engine oil.
 
Yeah I checked out my VIN number it is in the dreaded range.
Looking at the manual, what special tools will I need? Crankshaft pulley looks like? Is there a generic universal one? MG one is really expensive.
Also looks like I will need to retime my bike if I do this?
 
If you are not the original owner, have your VIN handy and check with a dealer to see if it has already been done.

Can't be re-timed. Controlled by the phase sensor.
 
Phase sensor? So how do I change the oil pump?
 
Phase sensor identifies cam position. Have you downloaded the maintenance manual from the resources section? You shouldn't destroy the crank pulley in the process of removal. There are index marks on the crank and cam sprocket that are alined on assembly.
 
Looking at the manual as we speak, so after I take off the alternator cover there will be a timing chain with 3 sprockets. Bottom one for crankshaft top one for cams? I am just worried that I will screw up the timing between the cam shaft and the crank shaft. Or as you said they are keyed so once I take them off they really shouldn't budge while I change the oil pump and I just put them back on?
 
Looking at the manual as we speak, so after I take off the alternator cover there will be a timing chain with 3 sprockets. Bottom one for crankshaft top one for cams? I am just worried that I will screw up the timing between the cam shaft and the crank shaft. Or as you said they are keyed so once I take them off they really shouldn't budge while I change the oil pump and I just put them back on?


Petrov,

I don't know your wrenching abilities or experience. What we did mention is the crank sprocket and cam sprocket have a mark on them. On removal and install it is helpful to have the crank mark at 12 o'clock, and the cam mark at 6 o'clock. If you are asking these types of questions, you may be better off having the pump replaced by an experienced Guzzi shop.
 
My "local" guzzi dealer told me that I have to run 40 weight oil in my Norge.
I did valve adjustments on both of my Japanese 4 cylinder bikes before along with carb balancing.
Downloaded the guzzi service manual and reading up on the pump. I appreciate the advice.
We have a new Italian bike dealership opening a block away from me, they will have guzzi factory guys come to train the techs on the 18th, perhaps I should take it to them if I am in over my head.
 
The dealer that recommended 40 wt oil is definitely not the place to take it. Hopefully the new guy will inspire more confidence. BTW, an independent shop that has experienced Guzzi mechanics should be able to handle the job since you are well out of warranty.
 
I was looking at my steering stem and the plate on it with the bike info and the plate said 3-2007 , this means it was made in march 2007? I think that that is outside the bad oil pump range?
 
Hi Petrov, I replaced the engine breather from the air box into a small bottle under the seat and blocked off the hole in the airbox. The result is a clean, dry airbox, the other upside is that is doesnt put oil mist into the throttler bodies, there was a service bulletin that came out a while ago about having to clean them to stop stalling. Also dont overfill with engine oil.
Kevin, this may be a lost cause, but I rerouted my breather to a bottle under the seat next to the battery. What did you do you to get it to stop misting the underside of the seat and smoking on hot rides?
 
I don't get misting under the seat or smoking on hot rides. The bottle is sealed except for a tiny breather hole. Every 6 months or so it collects about a teaspoon of creamy oil which i dispose of. Still no problem after 100,000kms
I improved my arrangement slightly - the tube extension now passes through a grommet slightly smaller than the OD of the tube, and I stuffed some scotchbrite and a bit of cotton up in the cap of the bottle. I get about a tablespoon after every ride, however, I put a bit more oil in to make up for existing oil leaks where I need to replace seals. Teenagers, am I right?
 
Last edited:
I improved my arrangement slightly - the tube extension now passes through a grommet slightly smaller than the OD of the tube, and I stuffed some scotchbrite and a bit of cotton up in the cap of the bottle. I get about a tablespoon after every ride, however, I put a bit more oil in to make up for existing oil leaks where I need to replace seals. Teenagers, am I right?
Just keep the oil level about half way between low and full on the dipstick. Any more and it will blow out oil.
 
Just keep the oil level about half way between low and full on the dipstick. Any more and it will blow out oil.
My only concern is that mine was upgraded to the car-style dipstick, so I’m not entirely certain how accurate it is compared to stock. Typically, I’ve been running about 1/4 oil showing on the narrow part, and it still blows oil. It’s not showing signs of compression loss, or at least nothing that I would recognize!
 
My only concern is that mine was upgraded to the car-style dipstick, so I’m not entirely certain how accurate it is compared to stock. Typically, I’ve been running about 1/4 oil showing on the narrow part, and it still blows oil. It’s not showing signs of compression loss, or at least nothing that I would recognize!
After a couple of weeks of riding with a Forbidden Hot Sauce bottle under my seat, I decided to reroute the breather back to the airbox. There was a LOT of pressure pulsing through the hose into that bottle! So, I replaced the original breather hose off the back of the airbox and into the same bottle. Pressure isn’t as high, and surprisingly, there doesn’t seem to be as much forbidden hot sauce filling the bottle at this point.
 

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