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Norge rear brake problems

Discussion in 'BNS12 Chat & Tech' started by silvergoose, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. silvergoose

    silvergoose Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Great input, thanks. As I said in an early post, I have e-mailed my question to a site called "Cycle Tech" to which no answer as of yet.

    I have spent most of the day reviewing the brake system and can not find any thing wrong, albeit the limitations of my test devices may not show up the root cause. I will take the system apart Sunday to review the MC, calipers and all fittings.

    The suggestion to remove the rear brake system from the ABS is something I have given a lot of thought to this.

    Will report any findings worthwhile.

    Thanks again for all of the inputs
     
  2. pete roper

    pete roper GT Godfather!

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    While its a long shot have you made sure the bearings in the CARC are OK by doing the standard wheel bearing test? If the wheel is flopping about it will drive the pistons back into the caliper and the brake will feel very spongy until it pumps up again.

    Just a thought. Otherwise try having the ABS re-calibrated with Navigator.

    Pete
     
  3. silvergoose

    silvergoose Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Pete, good to hear from you been worried about you.
    Thanks for the input. Question for you: Have you found evidence of any master cylinder problems which could lead to air ingestion?

    To answer your question about the wheel bearing test. Yes I have checked the wheel bearing and the caliper mount bolts, everything seems well. I bled the brakes,again, last week(new dot 4 fluid was used to refill) left the bike on the lift. Yesterday I checked the brake lever travel. The travel was more than twice as long and very soft. The fact that the bike was not on the road has me very concerned about the entire system. I have a set of rear calipers(Brembo) taken from a BMW I will check the fitment today, it is worth a shot.

    Pete, it good to hear from you and trust that all is well.
    PM sometime about the CARC breather.

    Thanks
    Larry
     
  4. RJVB

    RJVB GT Reference

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    I've put up the question on my French forum (here), and just got a helpful reply. The issue is apparently due to air bubbles building up around some ABS pump valves; MG are aware and have modified the purging procedure. I'm hoping to get more detailed information, but someone with time on his/er hands could delve into the tech bulletins to see if there was indeed an official communication on this ;)
     
  5. RJVB

    RJVB GT Reference

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    FWIW, the updated procedure calls for doing the purge with a functioning ABS system — i.e. the engine running and the ABS light OFF.
     
  6. draidt

    draidt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    How does one get the ABS light to go off when the bike is just idling in neutral ??
     
  7. RJVB

    RJVB GT Reference

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    Either you turn both wheels at the same time to get at the minimal distance travelled at the minimum speed to satisfy the ABS

    or

    you ride a bit and then get the bike up the lift/whatever and do your purging thing.

    Yes, must be the dog's bollocks for the dealers, but mine shrugged it off saying they'd simply finish the job outside or something of the sort.
     
  8. draidt

    draidt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    OK got it now !
     
  9. Valkrunner

    Valkrunner Just got it firing!

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    Carefull, our 2007 Norge has experienced the rear brake issue from the purchase date. Bleeding of the brakes every 3-4 thousand miles was required, replace master cyclinder, abs pump and hose seals. Finally at 25k the whole system locked up and caused major damage, melted down a caliper, lucky no one was hurt.
     

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  10. silvergoose

    silvergoose Tuned and Synch'ed

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    While I may not have found the only smoking gun, I have aleast found one problem. The bleed valve, brake line connector. After waiting for some time to recieve an answer from Brembo(has yet arrive) i decided to "spin a few wrenches". I found that the metal/rubber washers found on the top and bottom of the bleed valve were damp. When I removed the unit the rubber portion of the washers fell out in small pieces almost dust. I cleaned area and checked for scaring and galled areas on the valve, none found. I didnot have a gasketed washer, so I am using a copper washer top and bottom. I have not put a lot of miles on yet(approx 200+) I still have a soild pedal. I can not say for sure that the bleeding problem is gone, but I am feeling better about it. Thanks for the interest and comments.
     
  11. RJVB

    RJVB GT Reference

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    Sounds like something one might detect when bleeding (if you know what to look for, and probably before you actually start the operation)?

    A thought about disconnecting the rear ABS: I'm not sure the system will appreciate. Disconnecting the rear brake lines from the system should not interfere with wheel-blocking detecting (which is based on a comparison of wheel speeds). But I'd do some serious testing under controlled circumstances the ABS computer reacts to the fact that one of the loops it controls has been opened (i.e. any control command it might send concerning the rear will have 0 effect). Maybe it will just do its work, but I can imagine any kind of abnormal reaction from loss of the front brake to all-out front braking.
     
  12. mvermeyl

    mvermeyl Just got it firing!

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    I have a 2007 Norge - 80.000 km on the clock. Rear brake is working fine but it is not a "high" performer but does the job.I'm still using the same kind of brake pads as from the beginning and have no complaints.Brake fluid hasn't bee, changed yet - checked on moisture content and still OK so I'll have it changed next year.Same brake lines too.
    So sorry can't help. Coming from a Honda I only noticed that you have to realy push on the pedal to have a braking effect whilst on my Honda it was better "finetuned" but that is just getting familiar with it. Luckily a MG has a very good engine brake effect brake - I love to use (abus) it . Take care. Marc (Belgium)
     
  13. Cat City Rider

    Cat City Rider Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    After reading all this and having nothing better to do today I bled my mushy feeling, non working ABS rear brake on a 2007 Norge. Wow! What a difference. ABS now works like a champ and I am enjoying a good hard feeling rear brake. No voodoo in doing the job, found it to be quite easy to do on the rear. Harder on my back and knees though.
    I was surprised at all the bubbles coming out.
    Tomorrow, the fronts which feel OK but what the heck.
     
  14. Angel Angelov

    Angel Angelov Just got it firing!

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    Hi, I have 2008 Norge, purchased a month ago, rode it first time today. Same problem: very soft long path rear brake lever. Going to twist unnormaly my ankle to apply brake. Got the schematic of mechanical config. Will try manipulate the MC rod and nut
     
  15. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Try bleeding the system first. Soft long travel may indicate air in the line.
     
  16. Angel Angelov

    Angel Angelov Just got it firing!

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    OK, thank you John,
    I will bleed it first, later will share.
    Angel
     
  17. Angel Angelov

    Angel Angelov Just got it firing!

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    That is right!
    I did bleed the system. (2008 MG Norge) rear brake soft pedal.
    WORKS! Now I have a normal brake pedal.
    Thank you!
     
    john zibell likes this.

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