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Norge Rear Wheel Removal Advice needed

Roy Denny

Just got it firing!
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Rhinebeck, NY (USA)
Hi, I've got a 2014 Norge GT8V (CARC)and need a new rear tire. I'd like to remove the wheel myself but could use some guidance as I've never done it before. Is it as easy as it looks with just 4 lug bolts? What don't I know? Much Thanks!
 
It pretty straight forward, Loosen the 4 bolts with the bike on both wheels on the ground, you may have to operate the rear brake as the bolts are quite tight. Secure the bike then raise the rear of the ground, if you have a center stand even easier. then remove the rear brake caliper assembly, put something in between the brake pads to stop them closing up, remove the 4 bolts and pull the wheel off. Refitting is the reverse , not sure of the torque on the 4 bolts but its up around 80ft/lbs or 108Nm
 
What Kevin said.

Just back from a 13-hour Bataan Death Ride in my old p/u pulling my V7 III. I need a week to recover (from all the curses those going 80+ for the last 600 miles hurled at my 60-mph self.

But here’s a quick response adding to Kevin's a wee bit.

First, just for grins, you might check the torque on those fasteners, Should be 110Nm.

If you have a lift with a cutout, you can drop the wheel without removing the can. If not, well, probably not. At least not safely. At least I'm not smart enough to do it. :giggle:

OK, fading fast here. Time for bed. Shouldn’t have started what I can’t (intelligently) finish.

Oh … what tire(s) are you mounting?

Best,

Bill
 
Tools: slotted screwdriver; 17mm socket; 13mm socket; torque wrench

Removal: put your Norge on the center stand; pry the bolt cover off; pressing hard on the rear brake, loosen the four wheel bolts about 2 turns; remove the two rear brake caliper bolts and insert a wood wedge between the pads TIGHTLY; remove the four wheel bolts the the wheel; remove the flanged plate noting the direction of the flange.

For installation, put a dab of antiseize on all bolts. Wheel bolt torque is 50 ft-lb; then 80 ft-lb; criss-cross then circle. After bolting on the brake caliper pump the brake twice to take up any slack.

I suggest these valve stems pointing to the right: amazon.com/gp/product/B001P4ZOL0/r

If you don't have a dedicated Norge tire gauge, consider this: amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRBY8DQ/

If your front tire is more than three years old, replace it too. It makes a difference. I went with ContiMotion, $160/pair delivered the next day; mounted and balanced $40; and $6 tire disposal fee. And $15 for a dozen freshly made donuts. In by 8 out by 9.
 
I don't reckon that I could operate the rear brake and reach the four wheel bolts. I put my Breva into first gear before I loosen the bolts. Have to be careful that I don't roll the bike off the centre stand.
 
If i am on my own I put a heavy mallet hanging off the brake lever, that holds the brakes on enough to loosen the bolts, also use the socket bar so that when undoing the bolts it forces the wheel to the ground therefore assisting in stopping the wheel turning. Use the same method when tightening.
 
It pretty straight forward, Loosen the 4 bolts with the bike on both wheels on the ground, you may have to operate the rear brake as the bolts are quite tight. Secure the bike then raise the rear of the ground, if you have a center stand even easier. then remove the rear brake caliper assembly, put something in between the brake pads to stop them closing up, remove the 4 bolts and pull the wheel off. Refitting is the reverse , not sure of the torque on the 4 bolts but its up around 80ft/lbs or 108Nm
Thank you for the help. I'll check for the proper torque.
 
Great info and detailed procedure. Much appreciated. For tire choice I'm thinking of Pirelli Angel GT II. Gets good reviews. Currently running Pirelli Angel GT.
 
Mackers made a excellent point with center stand. Whenever you will be doing any work that requires large forces or rocking back and forth, use an adjustable, locking tie down strap between the center stand and the front wheel to prevent the motorcycle from tipping forward off the stand. I forgot to mention this step.

The Norge rear wheel is the easiest I've ever done. The front wheel is more complicated but still easy.
 
Yep, super easy. I use an electric impact to remove and a torque wrench to install. The one thing that frustrated me was the inner spray fender bracket got bent and rubbed on the tire. I have been running the pilot road 5. I'm about to try the conti road attack 3.
It rains a lot in the PNW and need the extra siping.
I also don't hesitate to replace both tires at the same time. They are engineered to work in pairs.
 
I have only got a Breva but the rear is the same.
For the wheel removal I roll both wheels onto a 2 - 3 cm wood and put a 4 cm piece of wood under the centre stand and drop the rear wheel down. That way I do not have to touch the exhaust.
 
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