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NTX, Tank removal (Problem).

Well that’s certainly one way to fix it.

Mine were overtightened from the get go and when I finally got them apart, I took a very fine drill and drilled out some shafts parallel to and right along side and around the insert. I did 4 shafts at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock.

I then squirted super glue into those shafts I drilled which allowed the glue to spread around the insert. When it dried, the inserts no longer rotated and as long as I don’t try to torque those nuts, it will probably last forever.

I don’t know why people tighten the hell out of those because they only hold the side wind deflector on and this doesn’t require any real force.
 
I don’t know why people tighten the hell out of those because they only hold the side wind deflector on and this doesn’t require any real force.

I don't know what the mechanism is, but I have often had threaded joints that I put together with minimal torque need 10x that torque to get them off.

Oil filters are one example. Lots of funny dynamics going on with the material, temperature, rubber gasket, etc, but there's been times when I know I put on a filter hand-tight, 3/4 turn from gasket contact, and when I go to take them off, I have to use a wrench with a long handle and pull until it hurts to move it.

Or like my Centauro front axle clamp screws. You could put those fine-threaded steel screws into the aluminum slider, recognizing that they don't have to be really tight, they're just holding the axle from moving ... and when they had to come out to change a tire, you could wallow out the hex socket, even with a good-fitting wrench, trying to get them out.

Maybe something like that happens with these. Differing materials .... ?

Lannis
 
Lannis,
The imbedded fastener assembly in mine looks to be stainless steel to stainless steel ......... so there shouldn't be any kind of galvanic oxidation or similar? I believe that it just would get overtightened, and it was a pretty poor design to begin with so it easily stripped/spun from the plastic surrounding it when trying to loosen.

The smaller part in the picture below is the part that's "imbedded" in the plastic. It's much more "rounded" than it should be. Even if it were a simple square nut, it would have MUCH more holding power.
 

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Stainless steel to stainless steel--that is a combination waiting for seized threads if overtightened. It would not take much torque on those small threads to be too much for stainless.
 
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